Padgett Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 AAA Premier. $132/year, 200 mile tow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 7, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 On 8/4/2021 at 3:22 PM, 2seater said: It may pull you around okay at moderate speeds and acceleration, much like the red car, but it gradually got worse especially as the fuel and pump heated up. If it were mine, I would be thankful it didn't strand you, and bite the bullet to change the pump, or better yet, have it done so you can enjoy the summer. My choice would be a new turbine style pump. Can you tell me which pumps that fit a Reatta would be the turbine style pump. I usually buy Delphi or AC-Delco but I would buy another brand if it meant getting a better pump. I'm parking my Reatta until I replace the pump. The engine is getting harder to start. Normally it fires up immediately. I'm not going to take the chance of it leaving me stranded. Yesterday I did a thorough check of the electrical that powers the pump to make sure it is being powered correctly and it all checked out. I'm resigned to the fact that I have a bad pump so I'm going to save what life it has left to pump the tank dry. I'm gathering information from previous forum posts to help me decide the best and easiest way to do remove the tank and change the pump. Sounds like it won't be too hard. I don't have any rust so that should be a plus. Can anyone tell me if the tank can be removed by just jacking up the rear of the car or does the car need to be raised on both ends to get it off? I have a friend that has a lift but he is in the process of moving it to his new house so that's not an option. I'll have to do it lying on my back on the garage floor. Any tips or advice anyone could offer on dropping the tank would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 - Have dropped the tank on rear jackstands, Have to remove the rear sway bar. - Did you change the fuel filter ? I'd do that before a pump. - Don't know was a "turbine" pump is, I always used AC Delco. 113 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon L Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 I have a fuel pressure gauge right on the fuel rail. On startup, it reads 39-41 lbs. If you blip the throttle the pressure jumps to 50-53 lbs. I also have a fuel pressure gauge inside the the cabin. I tried, once to hear the fuel return, but never heard it. I personally, would drop the tank and replace the pump now, as opposed to waiting until it quit. I know in my case it would leave me in an awkward place when it quit. Just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 7, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Padgett: I did replace the fuel filter first thing but it didn't help. Good to know the tank can be dropped with just the rear hacked up. I like AC Delco to. Jon: I've had two different fuel pressure gauges on it and both read the same, 32 psi. I agree with you. It's time to replace the pump before driving it anymore. Just trying t get up the energy to tackle it. It's very hot and humid here in Tennessee right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon L Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 I don't think I would start the job in this heat and humidity. But I would start it in the evening when it cools off some. I might take me several days to complete working in the early morning and late evening. It must be the pump, or even the screen on the pump. It's obvious that the pressure is too low. A clogged screen could cause that also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 7, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 I agree. That is what I intend to do. I'm getting too old to rough it like I use to. It will take me several days as well. It would have a clogged screen on the pump. How it looks will determine how much tank cleaning I'll try to do. If it looks really bad I might take it to my friends engine shop and put it in the hot tank and get completely clean. Either way it will get a new pump and strainer. This will be my first pump replacement on a Reatta so it will be a learning experience for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogold Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 Could be the pulsator too, if your car still has one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 I was thinking something along this line for a fuel pump. Designed for the early supercharged cars: More Information for DELPHI FE0486 (rockauto.com) May require a bit of customization. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 8, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 8, 2021 3 hours ago, 2seater said: I was thinking something along this line for a fuel pump. Designed for the early supercharged cars: More Information for DELPHI FE0486 (rockauto.com) May require a bit of customization. Thanks for the link. That looks like a good pump but to keep it as simple as possible I will probably just go with the regular Delphi or Delco. I've had good service out of both. Looks like AutoZone has the Delphi pump kit in stock for about $71 + tax and about 12 for the strainer. I'm sure wishing I had your lift right now. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 Not having rust to deal with will be a big plus. The electrical and fuel connections are all on the front and drivers corner area of the tank. If rusty, it is easy to twist off one of the steel lines coming from the pump. Be sure to hold the fixed portion of the fitting when unscrewing the lines. The fuel filler and vent hoses may or may not be a challenge depending on which way the hose clamps are facing. Long handle screwdrivers may help. The rear sway bar does need to be swung down and it usually helps to loosen and move the exhaust heat shields aside. The rear only needs to be raised however having both ends raised gives more options for personal comfort regarding the contortions needed to access everything. I usually run the front wheels up on ramps because that end weighs a lot and then raise the rear with a jack and stands. I also do not use a creeper for much of under car work but I use short nap carpet remnants which adds clearance and it doesn't scoot out from under you. Beyond that, just the two straps hold the tank up. Ironically, I did the red car for my son/grandson last summer BEFORE I bought my lift. That includes replacing all the rear fuel and brake lines from about the center of the car to the rear, including the rear axle lines and relocating the proportioning valve🙄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 And then there are bag lifts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon L Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 If your going to buy something to lift your car, look into "Quick-Jack". It lifts the body and leaves everything else open to work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 Quick Jacks are 18" low rise lifts. I prefer a 40" medium rise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 8, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 8, 2021 Thanks for the detailed description of what needs to be done. I have a friend with some ramps that I can borrow. I see the Delphi kit comes with an electrical harness of some kind. Do the new pumps have a different connection that won't mate up to the stock harness? Do you guys recommend using a pulsator to connect the pump or the short hose that comes with the kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Ronnie said: Thanks for the detailed description of what needs to be done. I have a friend with some ramps that I can borrow. I see the Delphi kit comes with an electrical harness of some kind. Do the new pumps have a different connection that won't mate up to the stock harness? Do you guys recommend using a pulsator to connect the pump or the short hose that comes with the kit? IMHO, Get rid of the pulsator and use the hose with clamps. I think the pump in the red car was relatively new and it had the hose installed, so someone had been in there before, but the hose was a relatively loose slip fit without clamps, hence the pressure loss problem. The turbine type pump has a smooth output without pulses so is quieter. The kits I have used are usually somewhat universal so sometimes minor mods are necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 9, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 I think the hose with a good connection is better than the pulsator to. too. Not sure when I'll get started on this job. It might be a while since August is our hottest and most humid month here in TN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 Same here. Midnight to 6 am is good, lotsa fans also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Walker Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 The posts were quite informative. Likewise with the video on changing out the pump. Just an aside, with the '88 and '89 diagnostic system, which seems to cover more systems then I thought imaginable, you'd think that there would be something addressing fuel pressure. However, I didn't see any diagnostic code that would seem relevant. Just curious though, were any codes activated on your CRT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 12, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 No codes have been displayed because of the low fuel pressure. As far as I know the ECU won't set a code for low fuel pressure or a defective secondary ignition system. Spark plugs, wires, coils, etc. Newer cars with the OBD2 systems will set codes for the ignition system and tell you whet cylinder is misfiring. I'm not sure about low fuel pressure setting codes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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