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Still idle problems.


jon L

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You may remember last year when I couldn't get my car to idle at the correct speed. 

I did find and repair the problem. (broken wire in the IAC circuit)  Now it seem to have

developed a new idle problem. Now starts up very quickly, idles fast and then goes to

a normal idle. Running in neutral i think it will run for quite a while.  In gear it will idle for a

few minutes and then suddenly die, like you shut the key off.  It starts right away and

idles normally.  When driving, it runs great, but stop for a light and it will die, but not all

of the time.

I am at a loss trying to find the problem. Any and all help would be appreciated.

Has anyone ever had a power steering sensor go bad?   My last idea.

Jon

Edited by jon L
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Never had the power steering sensor go bad, but I always thought that sensor was for the A/C cut off when making a turn.

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I don’t have any great insight on this particular set of circumstances but I had a crank sensor failure that acted in a somewhat similar way. Eventually it wouldn’t start but after cooling a bit, it would. It ran perfectly but would shut off for no apparent reason. The major difference is mine eventually wouldn’t restart but always did after cooling. 

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I had a Fiero that did same. Turned out to be a bad TPS wire that went to zero on a stop. What is the TPS reading doing ? ED01.

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.46 TPS

It doesn't die every time I stop. And occasionally when started the idle is fast. I shut it off and restarting it idles normally.

Edited by jon L
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What is the comparison between the two voltages.?

I mean, lower voltage lower idle? Or higher idle?

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As far as I know, it doesn’t have  a direct connection or control of idle but is an indicator used by the ECM. The ECM can adjust within a range for most readings but there are limits to the amount of latitude it has. When the overall system is running, inputs are expected within a programmed range or an error code will result. 

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That is the range. Anywhere between .38v and .42v is OK. Should also be over 4v at WOT. A bad wire causing the signal to drop to zero can cause the engine to die. A high value makes the computer think your foot is on the gas and will idle up.

Edited by Padgett
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I  have reset the TPS to .42 and it seems to idles better. This afternoon I am taking it to a cruise and will report tomorrow.

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So, I took it out last night to a cruise. It ran fine, no problems, until I pulled in to my driveway, stopped and opened my garage door from the street.  It then proceeded to die.  In gear, idling.  It started right up sand did not die again.

???????????

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Those kind of random problems can be really hard to find. All you can do is check everything you know to check, ICM, IAC, fuel pressure ect.. I know you have checked all that so I can't help wonder if it's something related to the supercharger?  It would be much easier to fix if it would just  quit and not restart.

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The idle drops 750 then drops a little lower and then dies.

Where should the screw on the throttle body set at? To completely close the

throttle plate, or partly open?

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There might be a specification for that in the FSM but I don't know where it would be. I think the throttle plate stop (screw) should be adjusted so the throttle plate is closed as much as possible without the plate sticking in the bore of the throttle body.

 

The IAC has a passageway the routes air behind the throttle plate to supply the air needed at idle. That is what should be controlling the idle speed, not the throttle plate.

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"The idle drops 750 then drops a little lower and then dies." - that sounds like a dirty IAC. See here.

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