Headlight trouble on my '89 coupe

[fun car guy]

Since I seem to need a new coil pack for the engine, I decided to tackle replacing the belcranks and rollers on the headlights while waiting.  However the driver's side will not open regardless of them being on or off and the left opens manually with the lights on but just falls closed and neither opens by trurning the knob.  I'm guessing it's because the old belcranks are worn out but I can clearly see both motors are working and assumed it was just a matter of replacing the belcranks and nylon rollers I would have no trouble.  I have both kits from Barney but neither his instructions nor the factory manual help with this situation so I'm asking if anyone out there has any suggestions.

[DAVES89]

Look in the "How to" section in the header of the forum. You found a fuse, this is easier to find!

[fun car guy]

Haha, I like your attitude!

[fun car guy]

I can see how this procedure would work on my left headlight as I can manually lift it when the lights are on.  However, the right one is stuck closed and won't budge.  I don't want to force anything but can't get at any bolts with it closed.

[DAVES89]

You pull up on the headlight pod as you turn the knob. This is with the hood open.

[fun car guy]

Thanks Dave,

I tried that and it worked, I now I have the right one apart and it appears that although the motor is working, the nylon rollers are shot.  Sadly, having to go back to work, my car has only one eye until I can get back to it.

[fun car guy]

So having completed the driver's side I can tell you those 8mm bolts are a royal pain.  After being in there for 32 years two of them simply snapped off each one much too easily so I've had to drill the remaining pieces out and replace them with threaded bolts and nuts to hold things together.  As it turned out both of them had ground up their nylon rollers to dust but the bellcranks were still in good condition.  I've also repainted the plastic frames and bases of the openings with flat black as original so they'll look good as well as work like new and my 31 yr old son is really getting into this which makes it even better.

[Ron Walker]

I agree with you about the 8mm bolts (I think I know to which you refer). I stripped one - took the body to a machine shop and had a tap and die completed. Replacement bolt - .15 cents - machine shop $35 bucks. 

[fun car guy]

You were lucky you only had one snap off, I had four!  Oh well, I'm sure most all Reatta owners have experienced this among other issues when dealing with a car of this age.

[fun car guy]

But having said that, I'm very happy to have a car so unique yet affordable.  One of limited production, dependable, well designed and with an interesting history that's already beginning to show an appreciation in value.

[DAVES89]

12 minutes ago, fun car guy said:

But having said that, I'm very happy to have a car so unique yet affordable.  One of limited production, dependable, well designed and with an interesting history that's already beginning to show an appreciation in value.

You're getting there, but I don't think you are the "dependable" stage yet. When you think you can walk out to your garage, get in your car and take it for a 1000 mile drive... then it is dependable. 

 That is what my Reattas are set up for.

[fun car guy]

Trust me, I'm working on it.  My car is 32 years old but has never been in an accident, is virtually rust free with a like new finish and a very good interior so it's well worth the effort and expense.  Besides, I like to think I'm making a modest but important contribution to preserving automotive history.