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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2024 in Posts

  1. After owning the GT for over month, I gave it it's first bath today. I waited until I got all the mechanical things done so I could do a really good wash job to get all the finger prints off from working on the car. It cleaned up really good but it really needs to be waxed to get it to shine like it should. I noticed a few tiny rock chips in the paint here and there as I washed it but nothing unexpected. I finally got some touchup paint that matches to take care of them. It was hard to find Crystal White touchup paint for some reason. After the touchups, the next step will be using a clay bar to make the paint as slick as a baby's bottom. Then a good coat of wax to bring out the shine. I don't think I will have to buff it like I did the Reatta to get it to shine. Clay bar and wax is what I did to the Mercedes and it turned out great.
    5 points
  2. The good thing is that the 7th generation Rivieras had many mechanical parts that will fit on our Reattas. They made a few more Rivieras than Reattas.
    4 points
  3. If you look at Reatta Facebook groups you can see a lot of the threads are about someone parting out a Reatta. I guess the reason for that is parts are getting so expensive for a Reatta, both new and used, that people don't want to spend the money to fix them. What does that tell us? Are Reattas parts, and paying a mechanic to keep them up, getting so expensive that the threshold where a Reatta should be parted our versus trying to fix them up getting lower? Or does it mean that less people are interested in them and figure there is more money to be made parting out an old beater than trying to sell them? The way it's going the only people who are going to own a decent Reatta are people that can afford to pay big money for a low mileage Reatta to admire, brag about, and drive occasionally. The days of buying a Reatta as a cheap car seems to be over. Yeah, you can still buy a higher mileage Reatta at a good price, but after you spend the money on parts and labor to get it in good condition, your cheap driver isn't going to be so cheap. Especially if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work. My advice to Reatta owners who plan to keep them, is buy up all the parts that you can afford right now that are on Facebook and hang on to them because the price of those parts is going to get much more expensive and harder to find as the number of Reattas dwindles because of people parting them out.
    3 points
  4. Anthony please hang around I think we need you. I am a plug and play guy with a lot of known good replacement parts. I just swap in parts starting with what parts are common to fail and go from there. My service manuals are hardly used...
    2 points
  5. Agreed, Ronnie. I have started to amass replacement parts that are hard to find. Though I have not yet procured a front windshield, I have been thinking about having windshield film installed as a precaution. I am good on struts (front and rear new spares) are on the shelf. Caliper rebuild kits. I am wondering if the various bushings could be 3D printed, or machined from a solid block of the appropriate material. The sensitivity of the electronics also causes worry. Regardless, the certainty is parts will be more scarce, and more expensive.
    2 points
  6. Here is an analogy to this topic. Just like a human being, the Reatta's lifetime will eventually cease to exist. That is, just as a human being will need medical help during its lifetime, the Reatta needs repair. Some people pass away, and others live another day. Along the way there are ebbs and flows with respect to the frequency of events, but assuredly they increase with the passage of time. So, in the case of the Reatta, at 30+ years of age it has rounded 3rd base heading home. Along the way many Reattas have disappeared and were designated as donors so others may live on. This is an inverse relationship........fewer Reattas on the road but more Reatta spare parts. Coupled with part availability from other GM models, perhaps spare part purchases should be closely scrutinized as there will always be aging Reattas entering junk yards or being parted out. The future cost of these spare parts is another discussion as predatory pricing becomes an issue rather than supply vs demand.
    2 points
  7. Sounds to me like you're using the wrong key. It would be unusual for all the lock cylinders to be stuck at once. I don't think you can access the trunk lock by removing the taillight. All the key lock does is turn an electrical switch that activates a solenoid on the trunk latch.
    1 point
  8. Thanks! They do work correctly and I replaced the photocell with the how to instructions on this site. The dash buttons (light switches, wiper switches and shifter panel) would not light up at night no matter what, and this corrected that issue. The slider also dims my IPC at night as it should. I have a replacement BCM on the way, I will try it out tomorrow when it arrives. I also read there are ground splices underneath the passenger's seat that might need to be recrimped/soldered? I'm thinking it is either something in the CRT unit or the BCM, possibly both, but since the IPC does error out occasionally I am thinking the BCM has a problem.
    1 point
  9. There are I believe 3 little tabs on the bottom side of that plastic trim piece. carefully pry underneath the trim panel and it should release as it is just a friction grip.
    1 point
  10. There is much more information on how the bypass and EST circuits work, and how code E042 is determined in section C4 of the manual under the heading Electronic Spark Timing. What is failed to mention in these two pages is that the ICM's job is to ground the EST circuit until the ECM tells it to stop (after RPM reaches 400). Your test revealed that the ICM is grounding the EST circuit properly, however when you commanded it to stop doing that (by energizing the bypass circuit with a test light), the ICM kept grounding the circuit. It should have released the ground and allowed the ECM to send the EST pulses on that circuit (423). Since you've already checked for continuity on 424 and replaced the connector, the only remaining option is a faulty ICM
    1 point
  11. I think you are on the right track but there is a few tests you can do... The next time it happens, get the car into a dark space, or cover the photocell on the dash really good so the BCM thinks it is dark outside. Then move the dimmer slider on the headlight switch back and forth and see if the lights on the IPC and CRT dim and brighten as they should when you move the slider. Then move the slider all the way to the right and see if the interior lights come on. The BCM actually controls all of that. That will at least tell you if the BCM is awake and operating.
    1 point
  12. Thanks. I did pull it back out yesterday and cleaned the connectors, still the same result. On my old IPC. The warning lights work but no display. Between the the two of them, I have a good IPC. I guess I'll try to get someone to repair them.
    1 point
  13. The top plastic trim panel has to come off before you can get to the two sheet metal screws to tighten the panel back down back down.
    1 point
  14. If you push the test button and the warning lights don't light up, the most likely cause is you have got another bad IPC. It could possible be a ground problem. I would try unplugging the connection on the back of the IPC, clean the connectors, and reinstall.
    1 point
  15. I only replaced my headlights with LED's, not turn signals. Sorry, I can't help.
    1 point
  16. Welcome to the forum! Sorry, I can't answer your question. Maybe someone will be along soon who can.
    1 point
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