All Activity
- Today
-
Still having intermittent ignition issues and believe it is not the ignition module or coils. After doing a bit of online research I have determined that there is a short harness that goes from the main harness splits to go to the ignition module and ignition module ground, goes on a bit farther and splits again ending at the crank sensor and cam sensor. It is discontinued by GM but Dorman makes a replacement. I have one on order and every indication is that this is the issue. I had a no start situation yesterday and rather then swap out the module again I thought I would jiggle the wires between the harness block and the loom protecting the wires. Tried a start and no go. Then tried jiggling the harness block that igoes to the module that the wires run through. That did the trick and car started like nothing was wrong. So I think that is my issue. Hopefully the new harness will do the trick.
- Yesterday
-
I usually use Google to search this forum (and others), by adding ::reattaowners.com (or whatever site you want to search) after my query. That forces Google to prioritize hits from the site you are interested in. e.g. Oil pan gasket ::reattaowners.com brings up two threads
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
Your brakes may be worn down to where the "squealers" are touching the rotor when you apply the brakes. The squealers are attached to the pads and warn you when the brake pads worn enough that they need replacing.
-
I inspected my brakes and they seemed to me okay, the pads are nice and flat, seem a few months old at least but they still got some life left in them. however im not well acquainted with these vehicles so even if theyre still good should i replace them? or maybe i should look at the hardware itself as ive noticed my brakes do not have those metal clips on them like are present in most vehicles. the calipers and rotors are like new as well. Thanks for all the suggestions and future support.
- Last week
-
Sounds like an inspection of worn brake pads to me. The intermittent abs yellow warning light could indicate a worn abs lead. You should ceck the lead for fraying or cracking. It is the lead at each wheel that is not a brake line.
-
Jeremiah89 joined the community
-
WHman started following embarrassing brakes
-
So recently i purchased an 88 reatta and since purchase it has had a strange grinding sound when braking or going around 5-15 MPH that is very obnoxious and sounds detrimental to the car itself. however i have had some trouble finding any information about this. Also, maybe related or not i have a yellow ABS light on intermittently when braking and i also lose about .1-.3 voltage when I apply the brakes, these may be normal but i figured id include these in here incase it’s pertinent information. I was hoping someone could point me in a direction to someone else’s post or they could give me some information about what to do. I’ll take a video of the brakes working later today. Thanks.
-
WHman joined the community
-
Odd that a rubber plug would be used to stop brake fluid from coming out. I'm wondering if the rubber is intended to be a dust plug for something else that is supposed to seal the brake fluid behind it. If all you need is a rubber plug, one of the "Christmas tree" style push pins like hold inner fender panels and such on might work. My local Autozone has a big selection of styles and sizes. I had to get some for my mustang to hold the trunk carpet in place when I replaced the rear shock absorbers.
-
It doesn't look too sophisticated so I would think it would be a great candidate for someone with a 3D printer since you have a good sample?
-
Break fluid leak
Clay-Goose-Davis replied to Clay-Goose-Davis's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
I swapped the rubber plug from one to the other and it stopped the leak. I just have to find another or something that will work -
I think this is a better pic, of course not in stock. Maybe try Ebay. ACDelco 18020180 Valve - Walmart.com
-
Break fluid leak
Clay-Goose-Davis replied to Clay-Goose-Davis's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
I pulled this one off of the other proportioning valve. It is made of soft rubber. It has identification markers BAF and 56. I wonder if there is any way to get another one of these. -
Reattas being parted at an alarming rate
2seater replied to Ronnie's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
Like most things, it sometimes makes no sense. People are repairing, or at least trying to repair, Reatta's that should be parted out and others are just the opposite. Seemingly decent cars that deserve some TLC are being scavenged and discarded. Definitely well under $1k for a running parts car, much less than that for a lawn ornament, unless of course it has exactly the stuff you need. Mixing and matching colors, inside and out, or model years with incompatible content really limits the usefulness. -
It sounds odd to be missing a part unless it had been worked on recently?? I have no knowledge of the Bosch system and if you trust this shop, what do they recommend?
-
Suspension and Hub replacement
Clay-Goose-Davis replied to Clay-Goose-Davis's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
The wheel bearings were in good shape. I’ve replaced the output seals, axles, sway bar bushings and end links, inner and outer tie rods, and ball joints. All on both sides. Everything went ok besides the ball joints I selected being too tight a fit and rubbing on the passenger side. There was only one AC Delco ball joint left on Rock Auto so lazily I went with the Mevotech ones rather than trying to find and order another one. Thankfully I have another passenger side axle I bought from Jim Finn that I’ll swap this damaged one out with. If anyone has replaced their ball joints, what part did you use? -
Break fluid leak
Clay-Goose-Davis replied to Clay-Goose-Davis's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
Went in for an alignment and had Buttita Auto take a look. They say it’s missing a plug and it’s leaking from the side where the line doesn’t connect. Does this sound right? -
What did you do with your Reatta today.
DAVES89 replied to DAVES89's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
We'll see. Was out to Gibson's [my local You Pick] and was window shopping looking at other Buicks. Found a pretty nice floor mat with the Buick Tri shield logo on it. It was a light beige so I washed it up real well, allowed it to dry and just sprayed it with the tan spray recipe found in the "How To" section. Think it's going to turn out pretty nice... -
Anthony started following Oil pan bolts??? , Reattas being parted at an alarming rate , Outdoor Air Temp Sensor and 2 others
-
Reattas being parted at an alarming rate
Anthony replied to Ronnie's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
I had considered buying a second one to revive, but people are asking way too much for them for the amount of work that needs to be done. If I could get one for $500, that might be doable, but $2000 is a bit much. Then I also see a lot of finished ones up for sale for a really long time, like 8 months or more. When you can't buy and you can't sell, unfortunately that doesn't bode well for doing a profitable project ☹️ -
-
Nice 👍 I learned the hard way where the jacking points are by accidentally jacking my floor pan 😁🤦♂️
-
I generally follow whatever recommendations I see from GM, but this time it failed spectacularly. A service bulletin from the '90s said to upgrade the oil pan gasket to their new design from AC Delco which is supposed to be so good that you can even reuse it. The first thing I noticed was that it didn't fit very well. It was floppy, hung over the edge in places, and getting it to stay in place while installing it was like trying to make a fish sandwich while it's still alive. The instructions that come with it and in the bulletin say to torque the bolts to 10, then 16. This seemed to squeeze the gasket out, and deformed my new pan. It started leaking and progressively got worse, so I ordered a new gasket. This time I ordered the Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus. This gasket is a solid piece that doesn't flop around or squeeze out. It comes with 4 handy helpers called SnapUps that you screw into 4 bolt holes, and they hold the gasket and the pan in place in exactly the right spot, freeing up your hands to put the bolts in easily. Once you get a few bolts in, the SnapUps just unscrew and you can put the last 4 bolts in. Incidentally, I tried doing a search for "oil pan" on this site, so as to avoid make a duplicate thread, but the search doesn't seem to be working. It returned zero results, even though there is another thread on that very page about oil pan bolts.
- 1 reply
-
- 3
-
There should be two longer bolts for this bridge
-
LJP joined the community
-
88reatta joined the community
-
What did you do with your Reatta today.
Ronnie replied to DAVES89's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
Dave, If you're lucky maybe just replacing the seal behind the clutch will fix it. -
What did you do with your Reatta today.
DAVES89 replied to DAVES89's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
Got it out this spring and the A/C compressor looks like it gave out over the winter. there is compressor oil with leak detector all over the bottom of the car as well. I set an appointment with a shop the 2seater uses as they still have R12 equipment. I just have to provide the R12 and oil which I have plenty of. - Earlier
-
Nardi joined the community
-
What did you do with your Reatta today.
DAVES89 replied to DAVES89's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
Went to my first cars and coffee today, meeting up with my friend Kendall and his wife. He has a 1971 Roadrunner and his wife drives a 1972 GTO, both great looking cars. Too cold to hand around so I left after an hour or so. About 100 cars. -
Michael Blue joined the community
-
What did you do with your Reatta today.
DAVES89 replied to DAVES89's topic in Reatta Owners Journal Forum
And actually 2 seater the switch he is looking to install were from my tested backstock inventory that you also tested with your "homemade test rig" so it's good. However from his post changing the accumulator is more likely what he needs to do. I have replaced the pressure switch twice in my 333000 miles on the Red. The switches can be hard to remove because they are in tight, which is why I bought the specialty socket [they are thinner wall because of the lack of clearance] years ago for this purpose.
-
Top 20 Contributors To The Forum
-
Ronnie
3888 -
DAVES89
2160 -
2seater
1964 -
Padgett
1077 -
ship
600 -
Philbo
365 -
fun car guy
349 -
Frogware
237 -
jon L
237 -
Ron Walker
225 -
retired mechanic74
164 -
BlakesReatta
161 -
alchemist
151 -
ski.dive
149 -
Ohjai
142 -
DPS.01
140 -
AZ Ron
138 -
Studebaker
137 -
Posti
136 -
Top Down
129
-