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Yesterday I was out running appointments, this time with the Reatta. I'm at Culvers an upscale fast food restaurant waiting for my client to arrive, when one of the workers comes up to me and asks me if I'm the owner of the Reatta out there. Turns out he had a 1989, but sold it due to rust issues. Always wanted to buy another, but not yet. He then said he had a set of snow tires mounted on 15" Reatta wheels and would I be interested. I know the bolt size is the same on the Regal, and they came with 15" wheels standard, so depending on the price and how old they are, I might be interested.

So what do you suggest?

In addition to L and F, you also need the S terminal. It is connected on the other end to battery positive. The regulator inside the alternator needs that input so it can know what the existing battery voltage is

I would take what the procedure for B411 says with a grain of salt because there are some apparent errors on the pages. In one place it says it's a 15amp circuit, but on the diagram it says 10amp. It also refers to circuits 39 and 139, which don't exist on the BCM circuit list. It does however show a 439 and a 239A on the diagram, which is what I assume it's referring to.

Before doing much you should have the alternator checked to ensure that it good and the correct one. From the FSM: Code B411 is telling your the battery voltage is low. Is the fuel gauge working properly? If not check fuse #1, (Ignition) If the fuse is good go back into diagnostics and look at BCM Date BD50 and read the battery voltage there. Then turn on off electrical components like lights, blower fan, etc.. and see how the voltage is effected. Let us know what you find. Don't worry about code B122 for now. It's not related to the charging problem.

I will remove and take back to autozone to check.. I am going to replace the plug into the top of the alternator first.

Codes I'm getting: B122 B411

Go into the onboard diagnostics (instructions below) and check to see if there are any BCM and report them here. There should be a code stored in the BCM since you are getting an error message on the dash. The code should give a hint about what is causing your problem. The charging system on these cars aren't as simple as most cars. The BCM has some control over the alternators output voltage. I'm thinking your probably have some wires still chewed up, or connected wrong, that go between the alternator and the BCM. Just to rule it out as the problem, I would take the alternator back to AutoZone and have them check it to make sure it is operating properly. Also, have them make certain the alternator you got is the correct one for a Reatta. Reatta Owners Journal - How To Access Diagnostic Codes

The alternator was replaced after getting the same message. Autozone tested it and said i had a bad alt. i bought a new one and I put it in. I did hook up the rear wire! A little back history, my engine wires were eaten by some mice. My co worker gave me the car to fix. It was a part of the harness that connect to the injectors and the alternator. I got a new section and spliced it in.. engine ran fine. Charging system has not worked since ive had it

Or you could try this:

Kind of off the wall, but did you check the crank sensor to see if it is in the proper position? On my '88 it was loose and slide to a point where the car would barely run. Something that is free to try.

There is no kit that I know of but the vacuum lines are relatively simple. There is a single line that goes toward the rear and it connects to a special tee fitting which contains a check valve. One side goes to the 1/8" plastic line that feeds the HVAC system. The other leg connects to the vacuum reservoir football and the cruise control servo. The forward lines for the transmission vacuum modulator, the purge line for the charcoal canister and the fuel pressure regulator are mostly steel with formed elbows or short rubber lines on the ends. Be careful disconnecting lines from the plastic vacuum manifold on top of the intake plenum as it will be brittle and easy to break. The exact diameters aren't critical as long as they fit snuggly.

i also ordered a new PCV valve since they are cheap and can also cause issues as well. does someone just sell a kit that has all the replacement vac lines? this would be great, just one kit with all the lines and connectors etc.

i am waiting on a new IAC to come in , but yes holding it to the floor is how i am able to get it to start, i have not tried unplugging the MAF but i will try this next, see how that goes, Not sure how the fuel pressue is, i see this car has all the original injectors and i ordered the new Bosch 3 replacements i read about here on the forum and will probably replace them at some point but id like to actually know if the issue is a bad IAC, MAF, fuel pressure, filter or what before just throwing more parts at it. i would like to check the fuel pressure, how do i do that on this car and what is standard pressure, @40? i agree with 2seater i may well have a vac leak it kind of acts like this with the slighly surging idle etc. i just printed out the vac line schematic and was going to try and take a look at those, i would not be surprised if its got some rotted out vac lines. thanks for the other suggestions i will look closely at the suggestion below by 2seater and check back with you all to update. i need to learn how to use the on board diagnostics, - i need a service manual!!!

i just installed these with my new struts on the front this past week, they are a bit thicker but compress some once installed and in place i think our old ones are well worn and compressed. They seemed to go in just fine for me. Phil

I agree with Jon. How did you get the alternator? If it's from a parts store or a salvage yard, tell them you got the wrong one and exchange it for a new one. There are so much electronics and sensors it would be hard to say what your issue is. If it's a "free" alternator it's no longer free.

I think you should get the correct alternator.

Don't forget to hook up the positive wire on the back of the generator

We need some background on the charging problem. Was the battery not being charged the reason you installed the new alternator? Or did the problem start after you replaced the alternator? Any additional info you can give us would be helpful. Don't assume the alternator is good just because it is new.

My computer says "charging system problem detected" and zero volts on the display, but it has a new alternator and a new battery. The alternator has 4 pins but the Reatta only uses the middle two L and F, correct? I have 12.3 volts at the battery with the car off and 12.03V with car running. I have cleaned the battery terminals, cleaned the grounds to the motor and body, plus cleaned the junctions for positive and negative wires. What am I missing?

Just got back from my long day driving. 355 miles and no hiccups. Ran like a top with some long drives, short drives between appointments and numerous start and stop on the ignition. Also checked the gas mileage and got just a tad over 30 miles to the gallon. Pretty impressed!

Traded it in today. Bought a 2024 Chrysler Pacifica Pinnacle. Retail price was almost 3 times what I paid for my "fixer upper" house in 1979! Traded it at the same dealer that did the first valve head. They didn't even care. It threw no codes when they read it so as far as they know it's a good running car.

No "re-circulate" indicator on my '91 HVAC either.

On another note the crank sensor looked to be the final piece of the puzzle as the car runs great now. About 300 miles and numerous starts and stops as I had a couple of longer drives of 100 miles or more plus some around town light stop and go driving. Today will be the real test as I will drive at least 250 miles running appointments.

I'll attach two photos. Mine is an '89. First photo shows temp set at 65 degrees. Second photo shows next coolest temp which goes to Max Cool and says so. No indicator to show recirculate, though the system may be doing so.