tomsbuick Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 ;) Wondering what the level a difficulty it is to change Valve cover gaskets and the back cover is blocked by a controller unit on the drivers side- does anyone know if it just unbolts ? Does the plastic top engine cover panel just snaps into place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogware Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 The plastic engine cover does just snap off but be careful they break really easily due to being brittle from the heat. As for the other thing I am not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 That's the EGR unit hanging over the rear valve cover. Disconnect the rear spark plug wires from the plugs and the cap and wire harness connection to the EGR. You will need to remove the corrugated feed pipe from the rear exhaust manifold to the EGR, the EGR valve itself and the adapter plate under the valve. You will both new gaskets for the EGR valve and the adapter plate. I would give the rear valve cover a six or seven out of ten. The front cover would rate maybe a two degree of difficulty, primarily because you must somewhat blindly find the catches for the front spark plug loom assembly which are on the bottom and the assembly slides straight up to access the hidden valve cover bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MAUI Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Tom - The injector rail cover can be removed easily as described above but be careful the plastic can be brittle from age. The valve covers: The front is rather easy but you will want to remove the alternator for clearance. You will want to replace the PVC valve grommet. If Ronnie does not have it in the store you can get a replacement at the local parts house. Also replace the valve cover bolts washers. These are needed to replace the old compressed washers. Do not over tighten the bolts, check for the correct torque in inch/pounds. The threaded holes are only the depth of the bolts, thus over tightening will only twist the heads off the bolts, be careful. The rear is a different story, you will need to remove the accelerator cables, injector fuel lines, power steering pump, spark plug wires, etc. Also, replace the compressed washers and do not over tighten. Check for the inch/pound before you get to this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Lots of good tips. I would add that you should look at the intake gaskets for coolant leaks or other signs of them leaking, especially at the corners. Good time to change the gaskets if needed while you have the parts mentioned already off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 This may be a little late but I stumbled across this photo that might help understand what holds the injector cover on. The clips that are circled, snap onto the u shaped fuel rail pipe. Pull on the cover near the clips, starting on the back side, leaving the one near the schrader valve for last so you can gently work the cover out from under the metal tubing that goes across the edge of the cover. I've had mine off many times. You just have to remove it carefully to prevent breaking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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