How to Check CRT Codes for an Electrical Issue -- Forum Advice

[2seater]

4 hours ago, Ronnie said:

O2 sensor is located in the rear exhaust manifold near the transmission dipstick.

Dang Ronnie, I expected one of your excellent photos of the little devil?  It stands straight up in the rear manifold. Photo of the manifold being prepared for modification; the hole in the stub pipe is for the O2 sensor.

 

 

[Ronnie]

I thought I had a photo of the O2 sensor but I couldn't find it on my computer. It might be on my camera.

[Studebaker]

Ronnie.......Oh No!!!!!  That sounds like a tight squeeze to get to.   Best to do it from above, or below?   And there isnt another one down in front of the Kat?

[Studebaker]

2Seater......There you go.......excellent pic.  So that rascal screws right into the manifold from the top......I just went out and looked under the hood.....looks like it will be easy to get to and remove right from the topside.  Will start hitting it with PB Blast, get her ready for some wrenching.  Glad I have an O2 sensor socket set, and plenty of anti-seize when putting the new one in.   Any of you ever try just cleaning the old crud-incrusted sensor and re-using?

[Studebaker]

I just checked at Rock Auto, and the OE Bosch sensor is only $12.50.  I thought they would be more expensive, so no need to clean and re-use, unless I just wanted to experiment and see what happens.

[Ronnie]

Sounds like you have it under control.  Only one O2 sensor on the Reatta.

[2seater]

2 hours ago, Studebaker said:

I just checked at Rock Auto, and the OE Bosch sensor is only $12.50.  I thought they would be more expensive, so no need to clean and re-use, unless I just wanted to experiment and see what happens.

The old one wire sensors are inexpensive as you have found, but no harm in keeping the old one as a spare for use in a pinch. The threads and sealing are the same as an 18mm spark plug and only needs to be gasketed spark plug tight. A new O2 should come with anti-seize applied.

[Ronnie]

39 minutes ago, 2seater said:

The old one wire sensors are inexpensive

I wish that was true for the 2001 GMC truck I just bought. It has three O2 sensors and I think they are about $50 each.

[DAVES89]

Ronnie that's cheap. My neighbor had a Nissan Pathfinder and wanted me to replace his. He needed four of them and each one was well over $100.00 each.

[Studebaker]

Dave......Holly Kamollie!  4 at $100 each.......thats highway robbery.  Makes me damn glad to own this Reatta.

2Seater......OK, 18mm.....Im sure my 02 sockets will have that size

Ronnie.....Good, only 1 sensor......I dont need to go climbing down-under in search of more of those critters.  Will be great if this solves that CRT trouble code issue.

[2seater]

The threads of the O2 are 18mm, same as large diameter spark plugs found in some old engines, not the size of the hex. I don't know the hex size offhand but I don't want to mislead.

The later O2's contain heaters to get them fired up more quickly for emissions.

[ship]

Tekton makes a 7/8" hex slotted socket for a 3/8" drive.  The slot running down the side of the socket is to get by the wire coming out the top of the O2 sensor.  I was told some years ago the this was the correct socket for removing 3800 V6 Buick O2 sensors.

[Studebaker]

 

Here are some pics of the O2 sensor, and removing it:

 

 

 

Came out real easy....not stuck like some are.

 

 

I used the 22mm O2 socket which fit perfect:

 

 

Not too dirty, but some black carbon did come out when using a wire brush:

 

 

Cleaned: 

 

 

Stamped "AC Spary".......Could this be original "fac-tree" equipment?

 

 

New O2 Sensor should be here in a couple days. 

 

 

 

[Ronnie]

Good photos of the old sensor.  I hope the new one fixes your problem. 

[2seater]

Great photos. Maybe a bad stamped "K" making a "Y"? I don't think the outside appearance is a reliable indicator of the condition unless it has physical damage. The actual working parts are inside the part with vanes and supposedly there is some form of oxygen content comparison between the ambient air and the exhaust. How that is accomplished I have studied but it eludes me how that is done. They are pretty tough, living in an environment of 1500*F temperatures, high exhaust velocities and turbulence, but are brittle and fragile at the same time.

[Studebaker]

Ronnie.,.......I agree, would be the best $12.50 fix I have done in a long time.

2seater.........You are right.....just my poor vision in reading the stamp.....It has to be "AC Spark", not Spary.  DOH!!!

 

[Studebaker]

Got the new Bosch O2 Sensor in and installed it.  Old AC one in front, and the Bosch in the back:

 

 

I installed it and today took the 89 Reatta out for a test drive.  The battery had been on charge (low amp) since the prior day, and the battery was at 13.2 volts before I tried starting her up.  Only got a real slow cranking attempt from the starter, as if the battery was almost dead.  Checked the battery after the failed start, and it was now only at about 11 volts.  I then charged it all morning and tried again after lunch......13.4 volts, but a super sick/weak starter action, but just enough to start the V6.  Drove her 15 miles on the highway, and came back.

GOOD NEWS!!!!!!   No "Service Engine Soon" light coming on, and no CRT flashing that "Electrical Warning".  So, the new O2 Sensor solved that problem.

 

However, now I have a battery issue.  When I was driving, the CRT screen was showing a constant 14.1 volts, but after getting back from the drive, the voltage was 12.8 and slowly dropping.  I tried starting, but it was just a flat "umphhh", and the starter did not want to crank.  I then checked the battery, and she was reading 11.2 volts.  So I need to do a load test on the "new" battery.......I guess sometimes new batteries do go bad.

 

Has anyone else had similar battery issues?

[2seater]

So we have good news and bad news? It is certainly possible to get a bad battery, or have a cell go bad but is it possible there is a loose connection somewhere between battery, alternator and ground? Is the battery actually getting the indicated charge, checked with a voltmeter at the battery terminals? It sounds like you have been covering all those bases so if that all checks out, it will need a charge and load test or there is a large draw somewhere pulling the battery down quickly. If nothing obvious, I would bet the battery is bad. I have experienced similar but generally with older batteries. Drive fifty miles, charging well, stop for 1/2hr, go to start and CLICK. No warning.

[Studebaker]

2Seater.......Yep, symptoms are that of a bad battery, and I still need to do the load test to confirm.  Will do the load test as soon as I get a chance, and also the voltage drain test as shown in the "How To" section of this site.  Get a couple problems fixed, and another one shows its head.....just the nature of the beast I suppose.