CRT Issue

[Ronnie]

2 minutes ago, Jay said:

Eldorado / Riviera Is that correct? 

That doesn't sound right.. Maybe Riviera. Let me do some checking.  Maybe someone else here knows?  DAVES89 might have a good used BCM that he is willing to sell. He has lot of Reatta parts.

[Ronnie]

9 minutes ago, Jay said:

Seems like there are other models that use the same BCM as the Reatta?  Eldorado / Riviera Is that correct? 

RockAuto says yes.  They usually are right.  Seems like the Eldo would be different since it didn't have a touch screen.

[DAVES89]

43 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

That doesn't sound right.. Maybe Riviera. Let me do some checking.  Maybe someone else here knows?  DAVES89 might have a good used BCM that he is willing to sell. He has lot of Reatta parts.

 

I have a bunch of "silver boxes". With all the miles I have driven I have yet to replace any of them. 294,000 miles on the Red and 311,000 on the Black.

[Jay]

20 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

 

I have a bunch of "silver boxes". With all the miles I have driven I have yet to replace any of them. 294,000 miles on the Red and 311,000 on the Black.

Dave, are you saying that it is probably not the BCM or that yes, you do have an 88/89 BCM that you would be willing to sell.  Thanks!

[Jay]

So I decided to go ahead and at least pull out the BCM.  What I found was that the cover to the EPROM was made of duct tape!  I don't know if this has had any real effect on the BCM but it surely could not help.

[DAVES89]

8 minutes ago, Jay said:

So I decided to go ahead and at least pull out the BCM.  What I found was that the cover to the EPROM was made of duct tape!  I don't know if this has had any real effect on the BCM but it surely could not help.

I have 3 of those exact number BCMs on the shelf. 2 with the ANDM  number in the corner. All were taken from running/driving cars. Sorry to be so flip about never replacing a "Silver Box" but it's true. Others have had to replace them but not me, just lucky I guess.

 E mail me at lemke1044@aol.com if you want to buy one.

[Ronnie]

Those EPROMS look nasty.  I hope they are still good. Normally you would transfer them to the new BCM. One of them holds the mileage of the car.  If you get a BCM from Dave I think you should try it "as is" without changing the EPROMS first. If that solves the problem then you can put your EPROMS in and see if it still works correctly.

[Jay]

Well I installed a different BCM and after disconnecting the battery for a period I now have all my functions on the CRT.  No dash yet for the IPC but that can wait.  Car is running hot and rough. I went ahead and cleared the code history in all sections to make sure there were none left over from the bcm's previous incarnation.  Now I get to wade through the various diagnostic modes to see what i can find.  The only current code is for the Air Mix Door which is the air blend for the HVAC.  Issues to resolve:

- I have not seen the cooling fan turn on yet

- Screen message states that the car is overheated - gages show the temperature at 197 and no fan

- I did receive a message about Engine Control Management

- AC Freon is low but the least of my worries at this point.

- IAC replaced, IAC port cleaned but still surging idle and hard start.  Going to test the Fuel Pressure with a gage.

- Major progress but much more to wad through!

 

Kudos to Ronnie for the BCM suggestion and thanks to another member for selling me a viable BCM!

[Ronnie]

Jay, that is a good first step.  I'm glad the BCM got the CRT working again.  i wouldn't worry about the AC at this point.

 

Is the rough running a new problem?  The rough running might could be caused by disconnecting the battery cable. Sometimes you have to drive the car a little to allow the ECM to go though a "learn" process before the engine runs as it should.

 

I don't know why you are getting a warning that the car is overheated. 197* isn't hot for a Reatta. You probably have a 195* thermostat. I don't think the fans will come on at 197. The Reatta is designed to run pretty hot.  I don't think the fans kick into high until about 230.

 

I think testing the fuel pressure as described in the How-to guides here on ROJ is wise.  You need to know that if the engine isn't running as it should.

[DAVES89]

I agree with Ronnie that the car has to "relearn". The prom is the same except for vehicle identity and mileage. It should work fine.

 When you first stated with your issue there was no complaint about "rough running". Did you swap spark plug wires around or maybe damage 1 [or 2] or have them on the wrong spark plugs or coil pins?

[Jay]

Car had plenty of time to learn, but I needed more time to learn what was really happening.  I tested the fuel pressure using the prescribed testing protocol.

Condition 1: key on motor not running

- fuel pump primes - can hear it running

- fuel pressure goes to 40-42 lbs pressure at initial prime

- pressure quickly dissipates

 

Condition 2: key on motor running

- fuel pump primes

- fuel pressure goes to 40-42 lbs

- fuel pressure remains constant regardless of throttle increase or decrease.

- nasty black exhaust upon starting after (accelerator pedal depressed to get engine to start)

- engine runs but not very well - good acceleration from idle to high rpm but rough idles

 

I have noticed that the exhaust has been particularly foul smelling and not typical of Buick motors that I have had previously in 3.8l

- black exhaust  typically means additional fuel entering system

- pulled vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator

- Eureka - GAS dripping from the vacuum line.  This means fuel was being vacuumed into the intake via a bad seal in the pressure regulator causing multiple running issues.

 

I have ordered a new fuel pressure regulator and am confident this will correct the running issue and the exhaust.

 

[Ronnie]

1 hour ago, Jay said:

I have ordered a new fuel pressure regulator and am confident this will correct the running issue and the exhaust.

I agree. I think you probably have found your problem. Let us know how it turns out.

[Ronnie]

Good detective work on tracking down the problem. ?

[Jay]

Fuel pressure regulator installed and instantly the motor purrs like only a 3.8l Buick can.  Idles at 1,325 which seems a little high so I will be monitoring and reviewing. Car runs and drives very smooth and coolant fans both work at around 213 degrees.  Now on to the remaining issues:

 

1. IPC repair

2. AC recharge - unit has been converted and I have heard the compressor kick in.  Sounded a little rough so I will need to go through and do an ac flush / re-oil / recharge.

3. Headlight fix - motors run but will need the upgraded actuator arms

4. Passenger seat - has a little separation between the seat and thigh cushion.

5. Clear Coat - last but not least will need to decide if I can wet sand and then clear coat existing paint job or if it will need a repaint.  Paint is in overall good condition except there is some visible cracking on the hood.

 

Thanks to all for the assistance so far in getting this car back on the road.  Really love driving it around!

 

[Ronnie]

Good to hear your getting your problems worked out.  I hope you have better luck with wet sanding clear coat that I did on the top of a Fiero I owned.  I found it almost impossible to do without cutting through the color coat.  I ended up taking a friend's body shop to let him fix it by painting the whole top.

 

Instructions can be found here on ROJ for doing the headlight motor removal. You will need to get a headlight motor repair kit that includes a new crankarm. The kit will have instructions for installing the parts.  We are here to help if you run into problems. I have several photos that I took when I repaired my headlight motors.

[Jay]

Update:

Once the "new" used BCM was installed my CRT started working.  I found that I could install the EEPROM and retain my mileage and have the CRT work.  Mileage with correct VIN show 29,3xx. When I installed my old EPROMM (the longer of the two) the CRT would not work.