Aztec62 Posted October 31, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Go to the aldl and look to see if there are any codes stored there. You mean for the ABS? Light goes on and off when ignition key is turned on so no codes I believe? Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 There is a little gray box under the steering wheel called the "ALDL" box. You remove the cover and using a paper clip jump two pins and read the codes. This will tell you what might be going on with the brakes. The exact procedure is in Ronnie's "How To" section on the top of this page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 The quote I mentioned in a previous post from the Autozone site is indeed in the FSM, verbatim. So it appears to me, the action of the brake pedal when over-pressed is normal. "Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake System may be stopped by applying normal force to the brake pedal. Although there is no need to push the brake pedal beyond the point where it stops or holds the vehicle, applying more force causes the pedal to travel toward the floor. This extra brake travel is normal." What the mechanism is that allows this to happen is not mentioned. More detail would be needed to understand why, but at this point, I am satisfied it is normal. Ronnie, I tried sort of working the pedal toward the floor as you described and mine will do the same thing. Eventually the pump restarted so doing that is using fluid capacity even if pedal is not completely released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted October 31, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 There is a little gray box under the steering wheel called the "ALDL" box. You remove the cover and using a paper clip jump two pins and read the codes. This will tell you what might be going on with the brakes. The exact procedure is in Ronnie's "How To" section on the top of this page. Thank you Dave. I think I have used it quite a bit already... :D No Codes stored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Ronnie, I tried sort of working the pedal toward the floor as you described and mine will do the same thing. Eventually the pump restarted so doing that is using fluid capacity even if pedal is not completely released. I think you are right. My pump ran some when I kept pressing the pedal and releasing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Thank you Dave. I think I have used it quite a bit already... :D No Codes stored. Then without driving your car I will go with what Ronnie and 2Seater have come up with. Each one of my cars brake differently with the Black stopping the best. New rubber brake lines front and back and a different proportioning valve, really stops on a dime... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted November 1, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Twelve pumps is unheard of. I know you have done extensive work on your system so maybe you have found something we are all missing, but it would be most unusual. The only two things I could think of to allow this would be a difference in what you measure as a "pump" or you have more than typical capacity and pressure in the accumulator system. Hard to judge without actual pressure readings. I agree entirely with retired mechanic that an actual on road panic stop test would be a good idea, maybe 100kph or so. Agree the Teves does have a different feel, but I like it after I get a feel for it. It's the only system I have ever had experience with that operates the front and rear brakes semi-independently. Here is a photo of the brake fluid reservoir of my Reatta: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Here is a photo of the brake fluid reservoir of my Reatta: This is the level with the accumulator fully charged, pressure switch has switched pump off. After 25 brake pedal pumps the level is at the high mark. Henning If that is with the standard .25liter ball, it is indicating a low state of gas charge. If this is the larger .33liter ball, that looks about right for a good one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted November 1, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Thank you! I think I have the larger one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogware Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Sorry just a little light humor...The fluid is so clear you can almost see through to the other side. I know by now you probably have went through a Gallon or two. Keep smiling Henning it will all work out in the end hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted November 3, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Well, I think I now have repaired most of the bugs and I can think of getting the car registered here. I got in touch with a company specialized in making US cars roadworthy for european roads. They have send me a price quote yesterday: 1500€ or 1.750,00$. Wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 Henning, As smart as you appear to be I don't understand why you would have to pay someone to do anything to get a Reatta roadworthy mechanically. What will you be paying them to do? Something related to the paperwork needed by the government to get the car registered in Germany? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 Have you driven the car? How do the brakes feel/work? All my cars brake differently. The Black with all the recent brake work stops on a dime. The Red and 'vert stop about the same. Might the proportioning valve [located behind driver's door]have an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted November 3, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Ronnie, it is all jst paperwork: exhaust emission cetificate, data sheets (for the car, for the head lights etc.) and what not plus a rather extensive technical inspection. You need an expert to do that for you. I tried my self once and failed. ( With a Buick Riviera) Dave, no, I still have not driven the car. Will do this weekend. Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogware Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 Ronnie, it is all jst paperwork: exhaust emission cetificate, data sheets (for the car, for the head lights etc.) and what not plus a rather extensive technical inspection. You need an expert to do that for you. I tried my self once and failed. ( With a Buick Riviera) Henning Holy Crap!!! What are the reasons behind all that? Is it because of the Autobahn's lenient laws and Safety :huh: Even with the fact of the Antique classifications Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted November 4, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 No, that is just Germany. In Germany, you can do almost anything, but you must have some kind of document telling you it is legal what you do. In France you would also need a document, but nobody cares. In Russia, everthing is forbidden, even when you have a document telling you it is legal what you want to do. Still, nobody cares. In China, nobody dares to ask. Not sure about the USA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Henning in the USA a lot of the vehicle registration and permitting processes are left up to each individual state. Requirements vary greatly depending on where you live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted November 5, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 Henning in the USA a lot of the vehicle registration and permitting processes are left up to each individual state. Requirements vary greatly depending on where you live. Hello Ronnie, I heard about the variations from state to state. I have visited the USA a couple of times (Tuscaloosa, AL, Los Angeles, CA). I just tried to show a little sense of humor. Took my Reatta out of the workshop today an tested the brakes. The right front caliper does not fully release... -sigh- I have only overhauled the rear calipers, the front ones looked OK and relatively new. Tried to save some money and labour- there you are... Apart from that, the brake system works OK now. When I hit the brakes for the first time, both warning lights went on. But they both went off again a few seconds later. Checked for ABS codes-nothing. Car stops on an dime and keeps straight. Parking brake good, too. After a few brake tests the funny brake pedal feel I have already tried to explain went away but came back later. I think it could be related to the master cylinder. Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 I'm betting on the pressure switch or relay. Good luck with the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogware Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 I just tried to show a little sense of humor. Henning I thought is was hilarious and had to share it with the wife...She thought it was funny also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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