wufibugs Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 I managed to install the driver's side CV axle and I'm pretty sure it seated properly. The large "body" of the axle is about 1/2" from the transfer case. Over on the passenger side, I tried seating the new axle and could not get the body closer than about 1" or more. Tried rotating the shaft and gently pushing to no avail. It did seem to engage the transmission, but it just seems like it should go farther in like the other side did. So I pulled it out and tried the old axle. Got the same results. The case seals are quite different on both sides. Before deciding that the axle is supposed to sit that far away from the case, I thought I would defer to those with greater expertise and experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 When you slide the axle in, you should feel it snap into place when it is all the way in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 This is what the FSM says about installing the axles. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wufibugs Posted August 1 Topic Author Share Posted August 1 By looking into the transfer case, can I see anything that has to line up with something on the axle in order for the snap ring to seat properly? Meaning, can I turn the shaft, say clockwise, to pre-orient it to seat the snap ring? I'm also unsure what the FSM is referring to as the "groove on the joint housing". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 I had to install an axle in my Reatta a few years ago and this is what I remember. The axle and transmission splines have to line up properly to get the axle started inside the transmission. I don't remember anything else that needs to be lined up. After the axle slides in so far it will seem to stop. Then you will need to put a large screwdriver, or something similar, in the grove shown in the photo below and carefully hit the screwdriver with just enough force to get the axle to pop over the snap ring to lock the axle in place. As the FSM instructions said, don't push or pull on anything except the part of the axle that has the grove in it or the CV joints could come apart. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wufibugs Posted August 2 Topic Author Share Posted August 2 Thanks so much, Ronnie. That is just the information I needed. I will give that a try tomorrow. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 On 8/1/2024 at 11:33 PM, wufibugs said: Thanks so much, Ronnie. That is just the information I needed. I will give that a try tomorrow. Were you able to get the axle installed with the instructions I provided? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samakijoe Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 I've been active on a few "owners web sites" (cars, boats, RVs,) over the years. This has always been an issue. Someone asks for help, a lot of guys jump in, but there is no " Hey guys, I'm back on the road/water" thanks for the help. There doesn't seem to be a way the solve this..... No closure............ 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wufibugs Posted August 13 Topic Author Share Posted August 13 (edited) I had submitted a reply earlier but I see that it was lost. I am not so rude as to ignore either the information given me on this site or Ronnie's very kind request for an update. My axle did not have a grove, or any place I could hammer on to seat the snap ring so my only option was using my hands to push as hard as possible. I did put the axle in but never got that satisfying click or clunk that allowed me to feel confident it was properly seated. It sounds like it's turning the gears in the transfer case, but I figured when I installed the knuckle and hub I'd get a good idea of whether it was in as far as it is supposed to be. About that time I noticed I neglected to install the boot and stop on the new strut rod so I had to remove the strut assembly to correct that moment of stupidity. I then decided I did not feel the new strut, which had been in my garage for years, was working properly [the seals probably dried out] so I ordered a replacement that put the whole project on hold. I was then offshore for a few days and just returned. The strut should arrive today or tomorrow so I hope to have a more definitive answer on how this project went after that. Edited August 13 by wufibugs 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wufibugs Posted August 24 Topic Author Share Posted August 24 Update: The new axle does not have any slots or anywhere to put a screwdriver to try to tap it home without damaging the boot. All I could do was use my hands and push hard. No audible click. I reassembled and the knuckle looked OK. However when I jacked the car up the driver's side, tranny fluid began leaking out of the [new] transfer case seal on the passenger side which told me that the axle was not fully seated. Barring any better ideas, since I can't bang anywhere on the axle and am obviously not strong enough to seat it by hand, my next plan is to put a C-clamp on the large end of the axle near the transfer case [Ronnie's picture above] and see if I can tap on the clamp just hard enough to seat the axle circlip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wufibugs Posted August 25 Topic Author Share Posted August 25 Well, after working about an hour, rotating the axle, banging on the clamp, it seems to be seated far enough to allow the seal to prevent leakage and it's no longer loose. I am reluctant to give it a good pull to see just how securely it is seated because I'm afraid it might pull out. I'll hoping the knuckle and hub will hold it where it is. Having struggled through this with the passenger side, I'm going to go back and check the driver's axle to make sure it is seated properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 2 hours ago, wufibugs said: ... I am reluctant to give it a good pull to see just how securely it is seated because I'm afraid it might pull out.... If it's going to pull out it sure would be a lot better for you to pull it out at home instead of it coming out somewhere on the highway and leaving you stranded. When I took the axle out of mine I had to use a prybar to pop it out of the transmission so I could remove it. That was after removing the other end of the axle from the knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wufibugs Posted August 26 Topic Author Share Posted August 26 Yeah, I borrowed the axle picklefork from AutoZone to get it out. I guess I'll yank on to see if it's secure. If it comes out, I will have to pull the axle to make sure the circlip is not damaged. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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