Plastic body part repair

[Reattasteve]

[2seater]

That area should be steel? Test it with a magnet but that chip looks quite thick, like filler popped out, maybe a trick of the light? Was that area possibly repaired before?

[Frogware]

Yeah I agree with 2seater it should be metal. The front fenders are the Plastic/fiberglass composite of sorts and I think they are similar to the C7 Corvette SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) but don't take that as truth it is just what I was thinking.

[Posti]

Reatta body components are all steel - no plastic or fiberglass, except in the filler pieces.

[Ronnie]

Reatta body components are all steel - no plastic or fiberglass, except in the filler pieces.

 

Do you consider the front fenders filler pieces?

 

Front fenders are some type of composite, not steel. Be careful leaning on or pushing on them. They can crack. I don't understand why GM used plastic front fenders and then used a hood that weighs as much as a Volkswagen and is strong enough to walk on.

 

Rear quarter panels are steel down to the bottom seam where composite panels bolt on to them.

[Reattasteve]

That area should be steel? Test it with a magnet but that chip looks quite thick, like filler popped out, maybe a trick of the light? Was that area possibly repaired before?

 

Unknown. After I bought it I noticed an X shaped crack. I tapped on it and was left with a hole.

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Do you consider the front fenders filler pieces?

 

Front fenders are some type of composite, not steel. Be careful leaning on or pushing on them. They can crack. I don't understand why GM used plastic front fenders and then used a hood that weighs as much as a Volkswagen and is strong enough to walk on.

 

Rear quarter panels are steel down to the bottom seam where composite panels bolt on to them.

 

OK. Good to know on what I use for filler.

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Yeah I agree with 2seater it should be metal. The front fenders are the Plastic/fiberglass composite of sorts and I think they are similar to the C7 Corvette SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) but don't take that as truth it is just what I was thinking.

 

Thanks

[Ronnie]

To do the job right you will need to get all the old body filler off, clean and repair the metal, and then refill with as little body filler (Bondo) as possible. Thick Bondo won't flex and the result will be cracking as you have seen on your car.

[Reattasteve]

To do the job right you will need to get all the old body filler off, clean and repair the metal, and then refill with as little body filler (Bondo) as possible. Thick Bondo won't flex and the result will be cracking as you have seen on your car.

 

OK, Thanks

[Reattasteve]

I went on SEM site and the color code for Red is WA8774, but when further checking that code is for material, plastic and flexible parts. Will that still be OK for steel or is there another paint code. I also checked Duplicolor and  it has a code of BGM0398. Which paint is best for metal or doesn't it matter.

[Ronnie]

BRIGHT RED (8774) should be the correct color code for your car. The car was originally pointed with PPG brand paint. Since your car has obviously been painted before you might have trouble with a color match. The code 8774 will be close.

 

When I needed paint for my rear spoiler I took it to a auto parts store that specializes in automotive paint by DuPont. They used a hand held computer type device that they set on the trunk lid that determined the correct mix for the paint to make it match the old 25 year old paint.

[Reattasteve]

BRIGHT RED (8774) should be the correct color code for your car. The car was originally pointed with PPG brand paint. Since your car has obviously been painted before you might have trouble with a color match. The code 8774 will be close.

 

When I needed paint for my rear spoiler I took it to a auto parts store that specializes in automotive paint by DuPont. They used a hand held computer type device that they set on the trunk lid that determined the correct mix for the paint to make it match the old 25 year old paint.

 

OK, Thanks

[Ronnie]

Steve, talked to a friend that does paint and body work on the side about painting plastic VS steel. He said he thought the paint was the same but you need to put on a couple of coats of an adhesion promoter first and then use a "flex additive" in the paint if you are painting plastic. Be aware that he doesn't do this for a living so take it for what it's worth.

[kdirk]

I'll second the need for flex additive on plastic parts. Many body shops now will claim urethane paints do not require flex additive on non-rigid body body panels. This is not correct, and painting plastic pieces without the additive will result in hairline cracks forming in the paint and clear coat if the plastic panels bend or deflect at all. That said, flex additive can cause very minor color changes in the paint, but this is generally not an issue to worry about.