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'89 Reatta, have lost most of my dash and all of my interior lights


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fun car guy

Hey guys!

 

Well I finally got back to my Reatta, replaced the faulty positive cable with a complete one supplied by Jim.  She starts great however, no interior lights and no dash lights with the exception of the ABS idiot light.  So, Tinkerbell still lives, giving me hope that I've just got a blown fuse or two that I missed.  Of course I'm hoping I haven't done serious damage but I'll keep looking and hoping.

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Padgett

Need to pull the codes and find out why the ABS lights.

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2seater

Aren’t the lights in question controlled through the BCM? Do the exterior lights work?

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DAVES89

Or it could be the crimped connections under the drive's and passenger seat.

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fun car guy
17 hours ago, Padgett said:

Need to pull the codes and find out why the ABS lights.

I can't pull the codes, neither the dash or the CRT light up.  I've been looking at the manuel and apparently there are two fuse blocks under the dash on either side of the steering column.  I'm sure, with all the sensitive electronics, they have to be shielded by at least one fuse.

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fun car guy
6 hours ago, 2seater said:

Aren’t the lights in question controlled through the BCM? Do the exterior lights work?

I haven't checked that.  Do you think that would help if they did?  Everything else seems to work, power seats, windows but I'm thinking it's a fuse or two blown.

 

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2seater

I am only speculating as I just don't have that much experience with touch screen cars. I believe some functions are operated through the BCM rather than directly controlled via a switch, but I do not know what is and isn't, so I do not want to add complication?

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Padgett

Was assuming an 89 which has a CRT. Is this not working either ? To take lights and dash (speedo), and CRT out is more than just a simple issue.

 

BTW for ABS codes you jumper A-H in the ALDL connector and count flashes of the ABS light (said it was on).

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  • 2 weeks later...
fun car guy

Ronnie or anyone else have information on my situation?  As I stated, have replaced the power steering cooler and the butchered positive battery cable but have apparently blown the fuse(s) protecting the Electronics as I have NO displays on the dash save the ABS light, also lost the interior lights.  Any and all advice born of experience with the Reatta would be much appreciated.

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Ronnie

I'll try to help but you will need a volt meter or a 12 volt test light so you can do some testing. Were the interior lights working before you hooked up the battery backwards?

 

Let's start by troubleshooting the interior lights. First, make absolutely sure fuse #2 (Body fuse) and fuse #9 (HVAC fuse) are good. Replace them with new ones if you can. While you are in the fuse box check all the other fuses but right now fuse #2 and #9 are most important for troubleshooting the interior lights. Once you know those fuses are good we can do some testing to see why the interior lights won't come on.

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Ronnie

Another question just came to mind. Do the buttons in the glove box open the gas filler door and the trunk lid?

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2seater

One item just came to mind after a recent discussion with Daves89 about the black car that my older son now has. This car had an unfortunate electrical incident too, prior to Dave owning the car. It was either a battery short or the alternator was shorted to ground, that doesn't matter specifically, but #1 son discovered this last summer while trying to trace a somewhat similar issue to the above. He found a fuse, that doesn't appear blown, but resistance is very high, so it acts as if blown. Photo attached. The point being, pull fuses involved and look at them and replace as suggested above if there is any suspicion. 

 

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2seater

This is the photo

4E9A4B9E-B358-4DD3-A69E-2DE18AD76E0C.thumb.jpeg.11d138bebc3deb924deba5807c6eef0a.jpeg

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fun car guy
3 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Another question just came to mind. Do the buttons in the glove box open the gas filler door and the trunk lid?

Thanks, Ronnie!  Yes, the interior lights did work before the short and I believe the filler door and trunk open now however, I'll check that out as well as the fuses you suggested tomorrow and report.  I do have a circuit tester and I'm assuming when you said "Body" you mean the fuse block mounted on the passenger side on the side of the console, there appear to be several fuse blocks in various locations which comforts me.  I need to find things to keep me busy right now.  Thanks again!

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fun car guy
1 hour ago, 2seater said:

One item just came to mind after a recent discussion with Daves89 about the black car that my older son now has. This car had an unfortunate electrical incident too, prior to Dave owning the car. It was either a battery short or the alternator was shorted to ground, that doesn't matter specifically, but #1 son discovered this last summer while trying to trace a somewhat similar issue to the above. He found a fuse, that doesn't appear blown, but resistance is very high, so it acts as if blown. Photo attached. The point being, pull fuses involved and look at them and replace as suggested above if there is any suspicion. 

 

Thanks, I knew at least one of you would have some good suggestions.  As I previously reported, the right turn signal on my car had apparently shorted before I got the car, melting the plastic and the socket was hanging by the wires so this also gives me comfort because I know this has happened before and everything worked when I bought the car.  I've since repaired it and replaced the bulb, a rather pricey one too!  After replacing the positive wire harness to the alternator, the junction block on the left hand side of the engine compartment and the starter, reconnected the battery correctly, it runs and everything works again, just not the dash displays or interior lights.  I'll need to get a full set of fuses and replace all of the suspicious ones as per Ronnie.  Will report later.  Thanks to you both!

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Ronnie
14 hours ago, fun car guy said:

'm assuming when you said "Body" you mean the fuse block mounted on the passenger side on the side of the console,

There is a fuse labeled "Body" in the fuse block located on the passenger side of the console. It is fuse #2. Look on the back of the door you remove to expose the fuse block.

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  • Ronnie changed the title to '89 Reatta, have lost most of my dash and all of my interior lights
fun car guy

Yes, I found it but seems my circuit tester won't show continuity so I'll get a simple one as well as an assortment of fuses and test them all.  Also, I'm very glad to report all the exterior lights work and both the filler door, the trunk release operate, wipers, seats and windows as well so I'm very pleased about that. 

I'm also reporting that I decided to do a simple test concerning the rough running (embarrassed that only just thought of it!)  I pulled the plug leads off of the coils one at a time and got great spark, OUCH!  However I had two cylinders that showed no difference when I pulled their wires.  I'm assuming those two have bad fuel injectors and will replace them all if their not too expensive.  Hopefully that will at least help but if that's the problem it's no wonder it runs rough if it's only firing on four cylinders!  Will report when I do those things.  Thanks again!

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fun car guy
21 hours ago, 2seater said:

This is the photo

4E9A4B9E-B358-4DD3-A69E-2DE18AD76E0C.thumb.jpeg.11d138bebc3deb924deba5807c6eef0a.jpeg

That one clearly got hot!  Thanks for the pic.

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2seater

Are the two cylinders that don’t change the idle on the same coil? You can turn injectors on and off individually in diagnostic override mode right from the drivers seat to check them without involving the ignition. Just a suggestion, once the engine is warmed up and idling, disconnect the IAC connector to keep it from changing the idle when trying to isolate a dead cylinder(s). 

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Ronnie
1 hour ago, fun car guy said:

I'm very glad to report all the exterior lights work

A few more questions to test the BCM. With the key in the RUN position:

 

  1. Do the fog lights come on when you push the button on the console?
     
  2. Do the parking lights come on when the fog lights are burning and the key is in the run position?
    (Don't turn on the parking lights using the headlight switch.)
     
  3. When you have the headlights on are you able to switch from low to high beams?

 

You really should stick with the problems you started this topic about originally instead of digging up more problems along the way like the coils. It will be less confusing if you will start a new topic for each problem you  encounter.

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