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After selling my '88 Black to 2 seater's son I was without a winter car. My original thought was just to drive the Red until January [it has "Collector" plates which are 11 month plates and cannot be used in January] and then park it as we winter in Texas staring in February. I could have waited a year as so far our winter has been very mild and we leave the 10 of January for an extended vacation to Asia to celebrate our upcoming 45th wedding anniversary. But I digress. I cannot drive the Red in the winter. It has been my all time favorite car and I refuse to chance driving it in snow/winter/salt especially with the liquid deicer they now spray on the roads. So the search was on. My mom owned a 2001 Supercharged Buick Regal. I drove it a couple of times and liked the ride. She no longer has the car, so I started looking for one and just picked up a 1999 Regal, red in color, light gray interior with a sun roof. There is no rust on the car which has 98,000 miles. I believe it was used a a summer car for the owners who wintered in a warmer state. It does not have the supercharger which is fine by me as I don't like the price difference on the gas price because of the miles I still drive in my business. I bought it in Detroit and drove it back to Wisconsin. That's about 500 miles and I got a good feel for the car. It is pretty comfortable, has good power, but does not have some of the creature comforts I expected. Has dual heat, but not heated seats. Cabin storage for "things" is not as much as I expected. However I bought the car for winter driving and it will fit the bill nicely.

I personally think this forum is indispensible for the Reatta community. Although not possible to know, I would venture to guess that the number of views per day or per month is quite high. Ronnie, your effort is most appreciated.

I just happened to see this today 😄 "This is not parallel parking, Christine; this is magic!" Cagney and Lacey, season 7, episode 20. May 2, 1988

My 1990 Reatta with 87K miles needed new struts all around. The job seemed more complex than simply changing shocks on my 1950's classics. But thanks to the guides here on ROJ, I'm proud to say I did it successfully. Some shops gave breathtaking labor quotes, more than my budget is comfy with. So I read through the guides here on ROJ, took my time, with an excellent outcome. All 4 original struts on my Reatta were totally shot. They weren't leaking, but they weren't absorbing road shocks. The pistons just dropped into the bores. I assume every Reatta that still has the original 30+ year old struts either needs or will need new struts. I bought the previously unobtanium rears from ECRP, and Monroe front and new mounts from Rock. ECRP says Monroe will not do any more runs or our 71966 rears, so suffer the ECRP price and get 'em while you can. After following the guides on this site and finishing the strut job, I'm very impressed with the newly refreshed ride, and proud that I was able to do the job myself. I have an appointment at an alignment shop this week, mandatory after changing front struts. Here are some tips from replacing the front struts I will share. This $13 tool from Amazon made it easy to deal with the nut on top of the front strut mounts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKZXJ881?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I ordered front strut dust cover bellows from 2 vendors that claimed their bellows were correct for Reatta, but the "bump stops" didn't fit. I modified the bump stop on the KYB bellows, and it functions perfectly to hold the bellows in position, while fitting into the upper spring seat plate. The supplied bump stop was too tall, interfering with the strut mount, and the inside diameter of the bump stop was too small to fit on the strut piston. My Dremel tool solved both problems. Description of 13 photos: 1. original strut - note the broken bellows. When the strut was unbolted from the strut mount, the rod sank into the bore...totally shot, but not leaking fluid 2. New KYB bellows inside diameter at gripping lip at top is larger than original. Can't use the original GM orange dust cover retainer/bump stop which requires smaller diameter sealing lip on the bellows 3. New KYB bellows with original orange GM dust cover retainer/bump stop, and the new bump stop included with KYB bellows. I cut the KYB bellows at top and bottom, and reamed out the inner diameter to match the GM original 4. New KYB bellows with original orange GM dust cover retainer/bump stop, and the new bump stop included with KYB bellows. I cut the KYB bellows at top and bottom, and reamed out the inner diameter to match the GM original 5. KYB bump stop with crown cut off, inserted into upper spring seat plate. Crown must be cut off so that strut mount fits correctly on top of spring seat plate 6. lower side of spring seat plate with KYB bump stop installed, cut shorter 7. KYB bellows pushed onto modified KYB bump stop, with a smear of JB Weld to permanently attach the bellows to the new bump stop 8. New front strut and strut mount with spring compressor 9. 24mm strut nut tool from Amazon 10. Strut nut tool with 50mm torx bit for original strut, and 10mm hex for the new strut 11. This inexpensive tool is much better than clamping the polished chrome rod with vice grips to keep it from turning 12. New strut assembly ready to install 13. New strut installed

My daughter fusses at me for not recycling plastid water bottles and cardboard. She says if my generation had done more to keep the environment clean it wouldn't be in such bad shape now., implying that my generation did nothing to stop pollution of the environment Later on I found the following and emailed it to her. She hasn't mentioned recycling to me since. The older people here will understand the moral of the story. --------------------------------------------------- This Green Thing Checking out at the store, the young cashier suggested to the much older lady that she should bring her own grocery bags, because plastic bags are not good for the environment, The woman apologized to the young girl and explained, "We didn't have this 'green thing' back in my earlier days." The young clerk responded, "That's our problem today. Your generation did not care enough to save our environment for future generations." The older lady said that she was right our generation didn't have the "green thing" in its day. The older lady went on to explain: Back then, we returned milk bottles, soda bottles and beer bottles to the store. The store sent them back to the plant to be washed and sterilized and refilled, so it could use the same bottles over and over. So they really were recycled. But we didn't have the "green thing" back in our day. Grocery stores bagged our groceries in brown paper bags that we reused for numerous things. Most memorable besides household garbage bags was the use of brown paper bags as book covers for our school books. This was to ensure that public property (the books provided for our use by the school) was not defaced by our scribblings. Then we were able to personalize our books on the brown paper bags. But, too bad we didn't do the "green thing" back then. We walked up stairs because we didn't have an escalator in every store and office building. We walked to the grocery store and didn't climb into a 300-horsepower machine every time we had to go two blocks. But she was right. We didn't have the "green thing" in our day. Back then we washed the baby's diapers because we didn't have the throw away kind. We dried clothes on a line, not in an energy-gobbling machine burning up 220 volts. Wind and solar power really did dry our clothes back in our early days. Kids got hand-me-down clothes from their brothers or sisters, not always brand-new clothing. But that young lady is right; we didn't have the "green thing" back in our day. Back then we had one TV, or radio, in the house -- not a TV in every room. And the TV had a small screen the size of a handkerchief (remember them?), not a screen the size of the state of Montana. In the kitchen we blended and stirred by hand because we didn't have electric machines to do everything for us. When we packaged a fragile item to send in the mail, we used wadded up old newspapers to cushion it, not Styrofoam or plastic bubble wrap. Back then, we didn't fire up an engine and burn gasoline just to cut the lawn. We used a push mower that ran on human power. We exercised by working so we didn't need to go to a health club to run on treadmills that operate on electricity. But she's right; we didn't have the "green thing" back then. We drank from a fountain when we were thirsty instead of using a cup or a plastic bottle every time we had a drink of water. We refilled writing pens with ink instead of buying a new pen, and we replaced the razor blade in a razor instead of throwing away the whole razor just because the blade got dull. But we didn't have the "green thing" back then. Back then, people took the streetcar or a bus and kids rode their bikes to school or walked instead of turning their moms into a 24-hour taxi service in the family's $45,000 SUV or van, which cost what a whole house did before the "green thing." We had one electrical outlet in a room, not an entire bank of sockets to power a dozen appliances. And we didn't need a computerized gadget to receive a signal beamed from satellites 23,000 miles out in space in order to find the nearest burger joint. But isn't it sad the current generation laments how wasteful we old folks were just because we didn't have the "green thing" back then? Please forward this on to another selfish old person who needs a lesson in conservation.

Stopped in at a little car show in New Mexico today

15 Reattas altogether, which really turned some heads. My car was the only ‘88 and got a lot of attention as I had left the windows down so people could poke their heads in to marvel at the touchscreen setup.

After owning the GT for over month, I gave it it's first bath today. I waited until I got all the mechanical things done so I could do a really good wash job to get all the finger prints off from working on the car. It cleaned up really good but it really needs to be waxed to get it to shine like it should. I noticed a few tiny rock chips in the paint here and there as I washed it but nothing unexpected. I finally got some touchup paint that matches to take care of them. It was hard to find Crystal White touchup paint for some reason. After the touchups, the next step will be using a clay bar to make the paint as slick as a baby's bottom. Then a good coat of wax to bring out the shine. I don't think I will have to buff it like I did the Reatta to get it to shine. Clay bar and wax is what I did to the Mercedes and it turned out great.

I have noticed my engine making a rattling noise lately and getting louder. I thought it was the timing chain rapping against something. I pulled the serpentine belt off and started jiggling all the pulleys. Lo and behold the water pump had lots of movement and rattled when moved around. Funny thing was, I had changed this pump before, roughly 10 years and 10k miles ago, It was a ACDelco unit. Also, it was not seeping out the weep hole. Installed another supposed Delco unit, rattling noise is gone. I guess I should be glad it lasted 10 years, even with the little miles put on it.

After driving the Regal for about 3 weeks and a bit over 1000 miles I have had to do some "fine tuning". Started with an Idle Air Control, Then on to a Mass Air Flow sensor. Then yesterday I stopped in at Gibson's a local You Pick yard to get a back up battery. [This was after lunch with 2 Seater] Came out to the car and it wouldn't start. It would grind but not start. So I first checked fuel pressure, that was good. Then said to myself " Either Ignition Module or Crank Sensor". The obvious easy answer was to start with the ignition module. I know I was at Gibson's but I had a back up in the car [always carry extra parts and tools]. Had it swapped out in about 15 minutes. Hit the key and it started. I decided that I needed to do a tune up and checked my inventory of Reatta replacement parts. The Regal is a Series 2 so I knew the Delco upgrade I had done on the Reatta would give me pretty much what I needed. I checked online for spark plug wire length and plug number and checked what I had in inventory. Sure enough I had a wire set that was close in lengths and the correct number plugs [#14]. Called up Kendall [my mechanic friend] and invited myself over for a tune up party. Plugs and wires and clean up the plate under the ignition module. About an hour later the old original plug wires [in poor shape] and the old plugs [badly worn] were out and the new ones were in. Drive home was much better as the acceleration was noticeably improved.

Today is my 67th Birthday. 15 years ago I bought the Red as a birthday present to myself. We've been through a lot of parts together and a repaint and I still wouldn't give it up. My plan is to drive it 2 more weeks and then park it until spring. My license plate is an 11 month plate meaning I can't legally drive it in January. That's okay as my wife an I are taking a 3 week vacation to Viet Nam so most of January we''ll be gone anyway. Then February off to Texas for the balance of the winter so I really don't need a second car for me. Maybe next year I'll get a second car as I really don't want the Red to be a winter car. Besides I spent a bit of time replacing light bulbs [cornering lamp, license plate bulb, and one of the high up brake lights], the leak on the Master Cylinder and finally different ABS sensor leads on the front. Baumgharts [My car repair center] did both lower ball joints, both axle shafts and then a tire rotation and alignment. Car runs really good now and is real joy to drive...

Lit

Not a posed photo. My two boys were over this morning and parked side by side so I pulled mine up so the nose was visible in the photo. Left to right, 88, 89 and 90. The 88 & 89 came through Daves89.

So I was driving down Midway Road in Menasha [for the benefit of 2seater] when a guy pulled up next to me and gave me a "thumbs up" on my Reatta. I wave d back and shortly pulled into a vacant store's parking lot to do some paperwork. As I was sitting there the guy circled back and said that he wasn't stalking me but wanted to let me know that his grandfather had a Reatta years back and he always liked them. I asked him if it was a 1990 or newer one and he wasn't sure so I showed him some of the features of the touch screen. He was really impressed, so hope I made another friend today...

I've always felt that the price drop from what I paid for the car originally to what I sold it for was the difference in enjoying it while I owned it.

Two of the more interesting pics of my '91 Reatta are when I was having it repainted right after purchase in 2013:

My problem has been solved thanks to Rogold's suggestion. Bear with me for the following explanation. The photo in the previous post showed the brake reservoir after I pumped the brakes 25 times with the key on and engine running. That photo shows the fluid level right on the full mark. Following Ronnie's comments, I again pumped the brakes 25 times with the key off. The fluid level rose to the top of the reservoir. I did the pumping method 2 or 3 times since the recent repair, and each time I evacuated an excess amount of brake fluid from the reservoir. (I told the mechanic not to overfill and to use the pumping method - he says he followed my instructions.) However, I suctioned the excess fluid from the reservoir. The current level is as is seen in the photo below - probably in inch or so below the full mark. In the photo is also the the bottle used to contain the excess fluid - a combined 7 1/2 ounces. I suctioned 2-3 ounces of excess fluid each time I used the pumping method down to the full mark so as not to be overfilled. The other photo is looking straight down into the fluid reservoir. The circular object surrounded by a black ring apparently is the float mentioned by Rogold. I used a flashlight and a drinking straw to probe the float in an up and down motion. The probing dislodged the shiny object propped up in front of the bottle with the excess fluid contained therein. It looks like a piece of aluminum foil that covers the opening of a new can of brake fluid. Removing the aluminum foil, and starting the engine, the ABS yellow and the Red Warning light both disappeared! Problem solved! Thanks to all for your help!

July of 2022 front yard Minnesota 1990 Buick Reatta 1989 Buick Regal custom

Reatta’s @ 2022 BCA Nationals; Lisle, IL.

Just drove my newly acquired 91 very in Florida and drove home 900 miles to PA. I tried to stick to 65 given my unfamiliarity with the mechanicals but it ran flawlessly and I averaged 30 mpg!

Another Reatta sighting. I was in Oshkosh tonight having supper with my sister and Brother in Law. When I was driving out of the parking lot I had to wait for a car to turn to the lot I was in. He was eyeballing me all the way in while I kept thinking "Hurry up dummy so I can get out on the road and get home". So he gets in and I quickly pull out only to have the car coming down the road heading the same way I am be a white Reatta. He wave as he went by, I flashed my lights at him in acknowledgement. Never saw the car before but it does have one burned out bulb in the taillight. And here I thought I was the only guy driving a Reatta in Wisconsin winters...

Decided to try and get some better braking performance on my Reatta. The brakes always felt kinda spongy and like the pads were sliding on the rotors. I have been changing the brake fluid every 2-3 years, but it never made much difference in the 11 some years that I have owned it. Last weekend I changed front calipers and rotors using Delco parts, and some Bosch QuietCast semi-metallic pads. The brakes are way better now. Brakes start grabbing much better without the slipping feel, and I think I must have got more air out because they engage with slight pedal pressure. I think the calipers I took out were originals. They were not leaking at all, but maybe just old and stiff after 35 years. I still have to do the rear pads, calipers, and rotors when time permits. Now that its getting warmer here in Nebraska, it should be soon.

I've always loved the Reattas since first seeing one. I have a '72 Centurion convertible and a '12 Mazda MX-5 PRHT. I was distracted one day on Hemmings listings and my wife looked over my shoulder when I stopped on this Reatta; a 1990 with 34k miles in California. She perked up and said, "I want that car. I want my very own convertible." How could I be a good husband and refuse my awesome wife's request? So, it's now in our garage. I didn't see an "Introductions" thread, so I just put this one out there. Even with only 34k miles... as a nearly 35 year old car, it does need a little work, so I'm hoping to be in the right place. Last week I pulled out the original air filter and replaced the original spark plugs. (Apologies on the signature... my first attempt didn't take... I'll work more on that tomorrow.)

Thinking maybe some of you will be interested in seeing a chart of how active ROJ forum members were last year. The monthly count includes posts, and reactions to posts. Probably 20-25 percent of them were mine.

Just now leaving Saigon for a 3 day stay in Bangkok, then home. Saw a lot in Vietnam. Saw Hanoi Hilton but all the American cells were tore down. They talked mostly about the French occupation and little about our soldiers incarceration There were propaganda pictures of happy soldiers getting physicals, playing volleyball and basketball. Saigon we saw the tunnels the North Vietnam soldiers used and the various traps they used to injure US soldiers. Was very interesting, and gave me a new appreciation for those that came and served. Also saw the killing fields of Penhm Pehm. Walked away thinking how can people be so cruel to each other..

You can buy a kit to rebuild the headlight motors. The kit includes bushings, that tend to crumble over time, as well as new crankarms. The crankarms are made of a soft material that tends to wear out in the hole that fits on the shaft. The new crankarms are made of steel and will last the life of the car. I was thinking about rebuilding the headlight motors as preventive maintenance. If they have already been rebuilt you can check that off the list Thanks to Barney Eaton for the photos.

Forgive the less that perfect photos, but there's only so much even the best phone can provide. My girlfriend found me a universal LED kit for models, which I used to add lighting to the front lights, rear lights, and interior light. I am by NO means a model builder, this was a very simple (and totally reversible) modification that I think added a lot of pop to an already cool collectible.

Here’s my ‘89 and i can wink at people since one light doesn’t go up or down. 👍 I still need to do a ton of work as you can tell from a few things in the pictures.

I'm NOT recommending anyone try this but... I thought someone might want to hear about it. My daughter's Camry had cloudy headlight lens. The lens was bad enough that I thought about replacing the headlight assemblies. I saw on the internet that you could spray the plastic headlight lens with "OFF - Deep Woods" bug spray and it would make them look good as new. With her lens being so bad, what did I have to lose by trying it? After covering up the painted surfaces I sprayed the headlight lens generously with the Off bug spray and immediately wiped it off with a handful of paper towels. No scrubbing with the paper towels. Just a swipe to remove the excess Off and let it dry. A yellow residue was on the paper towel when I wiped the spray off. To my amazement the cloudy lens now looks like new. I don't know how it works or how long it will last, but after two days it still looks great.

I have never viewed a vehicle as an investment, so the Reatta value is not a disappointment to me. What it does do for me is make me look forward to the first drive in the spring after a winters sleep. Never fails to make me smile. I have never desired to be the member of a large group either. Not on the personal level, but that of things mechanical. Personal appeal is what I desire. After all, as I have mentioned in the past, my first brand new car was a first year AMC Pacer X in school bus yellow and ordered out by me😖 As mentioned above, if the vehicle has a following or personal nostalgia attached to it, the value shoots up. High school cars or ones lusted after during that time make up a fair amount of the market. Rarity doesn't seem to matter much. Just peruse the vintage car marketplace or auctions and a 1 of 100 Camaro will likely bring more than a 1 of 10 Mustang or possibly a 'Cuda. The Chevy will simply be more likely to have been in the buyers personal past. It just seems that simple to me. The Reatta won't be in many peoples past and the high schoolers of the era, now see it as an unusual used car. My two boys, classes of '89 and '93, each have one acquired through Dave, and I suppose I have something to do with it. Different era, different crowd.

We’ve been receiving messages and emails from a lot of you regarding our rear shock project. I owe you all some correspondence, so here’s what I know so far. Firstly, this info may change as I haven’t been able to get up with our sales rep at Monroe all week. They have gone radio silent all week. Secondly, we had to place an order for a minimum 1000 rear shocks in order for Monroe to produce the 71966 shock for us. We committed to that back in April. We were told Monroe would tool up and make them for us with that minimum order and only that minimum would be made. They assured us they had zero interest in holding inventory for what they referred to as an obsolete part number for them. They would produce them, but we had to buy them all. However, it appears that Monroe has been selling OUR order off the top of our pallets in their facility to everyone at well below our wholesale price without requiring the minimum order they required from us. Essentially destroying this project for us. Our order was even shorted with only 976 units or less reportedly coming. If you ordered shocks from anyone and the packing list says 71966-ST, you can thank us for that. That was our special part number for the order. Monroe has been stealing out units off our order and selling direct for well under our wholesale pricing. Monroe has continuously lied straight to our faces saying “we don’t fulfill direct for any retailers”, and that they’ve shipped our order. We still have yet to receive our order despite reportedly shipping from Monroe on Monday. Please bear with us while we try to get to the bottom of this. We have thousands of dollars tied up in this project and are committed to finding a resolution. Our intention is to renegotiate price with Monroe on what is left of our order (given how they’ve screwed us) and still fulfill all orders and offer folks a refund or store credit for the difference. Please stay tuned for more info, and we sincerely appreciate your patience in this matter. We are a small family run business who has been screwed by corporate America big time on this project and we are working to do our best for our loyal customers. regards, Marck Barker EastCoastReattaParts.com

First set of struts are done and I have four more sets that will be completed within the next week. I will let each of these sets go for $275 per pair, plus shipping. PM me if you are interested in purchasing. I will ask for a release of liability as these are modified to fill a need where no replacements exist. As mentioned earlier in this thread, these are new, Monroe brand gas charged struts. They started life as rear struts for the 1990 Regal, which are the same base strut as the Reatta but with different mounting brackets and missing the pinch bolt dent and sway bar adapter. All of the Regal brackets were removed, the pinch bolt dimple added, the struts painted satin black (where the brackets were removed, there was no paint). Each strut will include an A&A clamp on mount for the sway bar as shown.

I took my Reatta out today and I noticed a new mural has been painted on the side of a building in town so I got a shot of my Reatta beside it.

Regarding rusted nuts and bolts, saw an interesting response in another forum I visit (Chevrolet SSR) on a variety of lubes used to break the rust. Since you "rounded" the head on your project, it may be too late. However, I've cut and will paste the response below. Sounds like some useful info that I have not tried myself, but maybe others have and can chime in. Sorry for the length of the article. Here goes: "From my experience in restoring antique trucks I tried most of the typically referenced penetrations sold. I found that none worked better than a concoction an old time restorer recommended. It was a 50:50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I never had it fail me in breaking loose countless “frozen” nuts and bolts. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used .........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... .........238 foot pounds PB Blaster ..........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench .......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil ..........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix..................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid."

Even though they are combined in the master cylinder as a unit, you can think of the ABS (Antilock Brake System) and the power brakes as two separate systems. 1. Power Brakes The red warning light staying on all the time tells you that there is a problem with the pressure in the power brakes system. This is a dangerous situation and the car isn't safe to drive. If you see the red warning light flash momentarily when you tap the brakes it is usually caused by a bad accumulator. The car can still be driven with caution but the problem should be fixed as soon as possible. 2. ABS The yellow ABS light tells you there is a problem with the ABS. When anything in the ABS system goes wrong, even one wheel sensor, the ABS light will come on and the entire ABS will be disabled until the problem is fixed. The power brake part of the system will still function normally and you can still drive the care safely as long as the red warning light isn't on. You just won't have the anti-lock feature of the Teves brake system. The ABS makes the Reatta stop much quicker in a panic situation without sliding the wheels. It has saved my butt several times. Something that should be noted is anytime the red warning light is on the yellow ABS warning light will come on within a few seconds. That doesn't always mean the ABS system has a problem. The problem that is causing the red warning light to be on should be corrected first before trying to get the yellow ABS light to go out.

Glad to be on the forum - here is a pix of my front yard during last years 4rth of July parade- thanks, bob

My '89 at the Rockville Car show of 500 cars - showing off my new "Survivor Plague"

I took my vert to Tower Rock Saturday. This is on the Mississippi River near Chester, Illinois. The river is low now that people can walk out to the rock in the river bed.

It would appear that of the 82 views of this thread, we do not have an original owner of a Reatta. There were several 2nd and 3rd owners but no original owner. This is not surprising as the Reatta came out 34 years ago and was marketed at folks who had a nice disposable income which usually starts to materialize in the 45 to 60 age bracket. Nevertheless, owning a Reatta at any age is a blast !!!

It has occurred to me that I have lived through some interesting times. When was young, "What's good for GM is good for the USA". When I went to work there GM was concerned about selling too many cars (over 50% of the cars sold in the USA, more than Ford, Chrysler, and AMC combined), the fed was talking about a monopoly and breaking the corporation up. GM then shuffled divisions and capabilities so no one company could stand alone: Cars had to be built in Fisher Body plants with parts from Delco, Rochester, Harrison, Saginaw, Hydramatic, and DDA. Dealers had to get parts from GMPD.. Today Mary and co. have a really nice building in Detroit but major decisions are made elsewhere (SAIC) and most of the side divisions have been sold off or separated.. (Delco-Remy is owned by Borg-Warner, Guide Lamp was separated from GM then closed in 2006. Pontiac and Oldsmobile are gone (Chinese really like Buicks). Think of it as evolution in action.

Tomorrow is a car show that Kendall likes to go to. I will be taking the Red while Kendall will be taking is all original 1969 Pontiac GTO. It is really a nice car and has less then 30,000 miles. He spent the winter replacing gaskets and water pump. And then freshening up the engine compartment so it looks close to new. I spent most of the day sprucing up my car. Looks pretty good, I won't be embarrassed.

No indication of a problem beforehand. It just felt like missed a couple of times, and sounded like it might have spit back through the intake manifold once or twice. All the normal lights that come on when the engine dies came on but no warning messages came up. No codes in diagnostics. I coasted to the side of the road. When I tried to start it again it hit a few times and that was it. Now the engine just spins when you try to crank it. I carry a spark tester with me and there was no spark at all on any coil. I swapped in the spare ICM/coils I had in the trunk and still no spark. I have given a lot of though about what I would do if the car left me stranded. I drive on a lot of roads back in the mountains where it is easy to get stranded like I was on Sunday. The first part of my strategy is to always have a cellphone, a way to charge it, and pray that you are in an area that has service. That is the most important item you can have to get you home. I had a hell of a time getting a tow truck but at least with the cellphone I could call my wife to come and get us. I was pretty well prepared but there are some things you can't control (like waiting on the side of the road for a tow truck to show up). I carry enough tools that I can at least troubleshoot the problem so I can make an intelligent decision on what I need to do - try to fix it, call a tow truck, or both. I carry enough parts that I can fix many of the things that routinely go bad, but obviously not a bad CPS. I also carry a paper factory service manual in one of the rear compartments. Have a look here. I have plenty of bottled water, toilet paper, soap and hand cleaner, 2 lawn chairs, and a change of clothes (in case I have to stay overnight somewhere). Yes, my trunk is always full, but when you are sitting on the side of the road with a dead engine that is a good thing. 🙂

Reatta Reunion Charlotte Autofair 2022

My 90 Black Conv w/41K, ‘89 Red Coupe w/75K, and ‘90 Select 60 w/74K

I acquired my Reatta last October but haven't done much work on it. It's a restoration project- mechanically it's pretty fine and most issues are cosmetic or electrical. I've started working on the interior bits while I sort out electrical issues, and thought I'd share. I finished working on the steering wheel with freshly wrapped leather and I repainted the steering wheel badge and added a little highlighting for the airbag (to quell some worries from family- now they can READ that it has the airbag!) The badge was airbrushed with a layer of gold then translucent yellow and orange and a paint marker for the black parts. I'll be doing the seats next.