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I ran into a similar situation with a '91 model S-10 pickup. It had a 4.3 engine with throttle body injection. It would start running poorly and then finally die after 10-20 miles of driving on the interstate. After sitting for a few minutes it would start back up as if nothing was wrong. Then it would repeat after driving more. One day it died on the ramp coming off the interstate at a gas station where I was going to fill up with gas. When I removed the gas cap to put fuel in I heard a loud sucking sound as I removed the cap. The gas cap on it had a check valve in it that is supposed to let air in but not allow fumes to go out. The check valve in the cap was stuck causing a vacuum in the gas tank. I replaced gas cap and the problem went away. The next time your '91 starts acting up, check the gas cap to see if you have the same problem.

I would think that it will but maybe check with something like Rock Auto to see if that part number crosses to earlier engines. My memory says that compatible ICM’s were used right until the end of the 3800 engines.

The other thing to consider is that you have very low miles and may have sediment in the tank that is stirred up and clogs the fuel system. Car is then turned off sediment settles down again and the process starts over again.

Pretty self explanatory. They are 1/4" longer than OEM. Need to purchase 1/4" plexiglass, and longer bolts. The mounting holes have a metal sleeve, that can either be ground down, or as i did, ground out so the spacer lays flat. The clearance is slightly larger than a razor blade... should be sufficient. The right side sensor can be used also on the left side. It will be about a week before I get the rest of the suspension work completed and I will update on performance and function.

The 3800's all swap. When I needed more ICM/Coil Packs I used to look for late model low mileage Buicks for them as well as cruise servos...

I am slowly but surely collecting numerous parts. I have multiple ECM's and Coils but have no idea if they are still functional. It is getting harder to look under the dash without getting light headed at my age, getting old is not for the weak of heart. I thought many times about just parting the car out but if was my mom's car and I just can't let it go.

I'm betting on the Crank Sensor. I once had and 2seater can verify that on one of my Reattas the Crank Sensor was loose and would slide out of position. Out of position it would not start, but would also backfire to the point that I had a car fire. If the Crank Sensor is defective or out of adjustment you will get no spark. I am not sure, but if it was the Ignition Control module you could possibly have some spark at one or two of the cylinders. Now here is the time I make this comment. It's not directed at just you, but at anyone else who thinks these cars are neat and want to try and keep them roadworthy. ALWAYS have a good ICM/Coil Pack in your parts bin. Then when something like this happens you can swap in the known good one from your parts bin. If it then does not fire it will most likely be the Crank Sensor. You can get a used ICM/Coil Pack from a junk yard for less then $60.00, far less then a diagnostic charge or the aggravation one goes through. I have two in the Parts bin [with many, many other parts] and I carry one in my car [along with a Crank Sensor, MAF Sensor, Alternator, and Serpentine belt that bypasses the A/C Compressor. You have to realize these cars are over 30 years old and are no longer supported by GM or the local parts houses. [for example I just bought a Rack and Pinion and front and rear calipers to ensure that my car stays on the road]. This is just here in Wisconsin where the Red is. In Texas I am building a similar inventory there to keep the 'vert on the road.

A fuel injection system should not vapor lock in the conventional sense. The fuel is under 40ish pounds of pressure and is constantly flowing through the fuel rail, so it should not allow any bubbles to accumulate. The pressure regulator is on the drivers rear top of the engine and the pressure test connection is located there as well. I would get a gauge on it and see what it is doing. First thing. I don't know how to determine if the intake is hotter than usual? Temperature gun? The intake does not use EGR like the earlier models so there is no direct exhaust to intake manifold connection to heat things up. A restricted exhaust will probably tend to keep more heat in the engine in general I would think so it may have some effect? I do not know. The standard way to check for backpressure is to remove the O2 sensor and install a pressure gauge. You can just remove the O2 sensor and run the engine to the normal point of failure to see if it makes a difference but of course it will be very loud and items in the area need to be protected from the escaping hot exhaust. Last resort? Running lean will tend to be hotter as well as retarded ignition timing. Some items will not set a code that is why getting familiar with the diagnostics may be helpful.

Maybe a fuel pump fuse is blown.

It certainly is a unique little car. It is amazing how different a German car is from a Reatta. I'm enjoying it a lot but I've still not decided if it's a keeper.

I've heard good things re: Cluster Fix. Luckly, I've not had to use them, but they are in my "Favorites List".

Sounds like a real keeper. I like the body style.

Well, that’s a series one L27 engine, so some of the potential vacuum leaks aren’t an issue, like the pcv for example. Gradual loss of power would seem to indicate a buildup or steady decrease of something over time. Does it run differently with the power loss, such as rougher running like losing one or more cylinders, or just like it is laboring more? You may need to install a long hose on a fuel pressure gauge so you can see it under load. Are you familiar with the built in diagnostics? You can monitor several engine parameters while underway. I saw the mention of rerouting rear plug wires making some improvement which is curious.

Yes, IPC problem resolved. I purchased a non-working IPC from Jim Finn and sent it to Cluster Fix for repair. They did an excellent and fast job, even polishing the lens to like-new appearance. When I received the repaired cluster, I swapped it with the defective cluster, and voila, the IPC now lights up every time. I paid a bit extra for the Cluster Fix 3 year extended warranty. I highly recommend Cluster Fix. Based on what Reatta experts told me, 90% of cluster issues are the cluster itself. I had no desire to tackle the innards of that cluster myself...a job best left to the pros who have "seen it all" and know exactly what to do to fix the problems for reliable service.

Thanks for asking Dave. I didn't think anyone here would care about my new toy. Mechanically there are no issues. I checked the rubber flex disks on each end the driveshaft that I was worried about and they were good. I think they must have been replaced by the Mercedes dealer at some point because they are known for the rubber cracking when they get old. Mine has no cracks at all. The engine starts and runs perfect. Even though I just use it for evening drives and short trips on the weekend like I did the Reatta, I wouldn't be afraid to drive it anywhere. Power delivery is surprisingly good considering it's a 2.2 litre four cylinder engine. Like the Reatta, it has plenty of low end torque, but it also likes to turn a lot of rpm if you want it to. It's a lot of fun to drive but it's not a hotrod. Fuel mileage is good, 30-33 MPG is normal driving around town and the backroads (Reatta got about 22), but that is offset somewhat by having to use Premium fuel that costs 60-80 cents more per gallon than regular. Last time I filled up I paid $4.01 per gallon for Shell. Regular would have been $3.22. Outside it looks really good when it's clean (black paint is hard to keep looking that way). I spent a lot of time using a clay bar on the paint. Now the paint is as smooth as a baby's butt. There are still some rock chips and scratches that I wish weren't there. I touched them up and they look pretty good. When talking with a friend on the phone, who built and painted his Shelby Cobra replica, I told him I thought it would pass the 10 foot rule when looking at it. When he saw it at a local car show he said he thought it would pass the 2 foot rule. That made me feel good about it. Everything inside the car works as it should except the fuel gauge. It's very erratic and can't be relied on. For the most part the interior looks almost like new, with the exception of the drooping headliner that I have pinned up for now. No one notices it unless I point it out. I might take it out and have it recovered this winter. Not decide for sure yet about that. It's like a Reatta. when you start removing plastic trim parts to get the headliner out you run the risk of breaking a lot of stuff that might be hard to find and replace. Not many Mercedes in the junk yards around here.

What is the actual fuel pressure and was the filter changed at the same time? The other possible concern is a restricted exhaust system, collapsed baffle in muffler or clogged catalytic converter. No mouse nest in the intake plumbing or air box?