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Why men always hold the door for a lady entering an E-type.

Finally had my fuel door replaced thanks to my brother. I held the light. The photos hopefully make some sense. The instructions I rec'd from Jim Finn were simple and easy to follow. He advised how to replace the entire fuel door assembly, as well as, how to remove and replace the painted outside of the fuel door to reattach to the replacement hinge assembly. His instructions are as follows: "Remove the rear tire. Remove the two #7 screws holding the rear inner fender and then remove the two #10 nuts holding the gas door hinge to the body. The hinge will slip out of the opening in the black plastic surround around the gas filler." Replace the old with the new, and reverse the process. In addition, Jim advised how to remove and replace the painted door from the hinge assembly, as follows: "Remove the two screws holding the latch to the back side of the cover, then remove the plastic cover which exposes two nuts. Then take off the two nuts holding the hinge to the door." Replace with the other door and reverse the process. Picture shows the wheel removed for access to the inner fender. (Sorry, the photo is sort of screwed up) After removal of the inner fender, the backside of the "box" to which the fuel door hinge assembly is bolted to is exposed. Had to grind off the nuts. Easy removal of the fuel door assembly. Shown is the replacement with studs intact, with the lower door shown with the studs cut off for removal since the nuts were too rusty to be removed. Also, this shows the slight difference in colors of the painted door, so these were exchanged allowing for the paint match to the quarter panel. These photos show the back of the plastic removed from the fuel door assembly , which just "snaps off." The first photo shows the fuel door still attached to the assembly showing the two nuts holding the hinge to the door, and the second photo shows the hinge and door assembly bolted in final position but with the black plastic ready to "snap" into place. The black plastic also has the "catch assembly" that holds the door closed prior to the door release.

Thanks for posting the link to the other, and primary, post for discussion. Interesting reading, but way too complicated for me, and, like you, I'm not fond of the lower look. And, from a practical standpoint, I think the Reatta is low enough now, since entry and exit already is a bit difficult for aging joints.

Contact Jim Finn reattas60@gmail.com. He rebuilds the headlight switches.

Doesn't look like Jon is going to answer you. You can read all about it here. https://reattaowner.com/forum/topic/770-another-spring-question/

Check out these places. One of them should be able to help you out. Nationwide Speedometer and Instrument Cluster Repair We Can Repair Most Any Problem in Any Speedometer or Instrument Cluster. email:customerservice@southernelectronics.com or call:1-800-446-2880 Digital Dash Solutions DIGITAL DASH SOLUTIONS offers full support, service & sales for most GM instrument clusters. My repair service is backed by 25 years of experience with automotive electrical systems. Phone: 1-860-583-0629 Email: digital_dash_solutions@comcast.net Prospeedo - Digital Speedometer Repair Prospeedo.com can program your BCM eProm for the correct mileage and VIN.The price is high and you have to sign the certification they supply.

Gentlemen, start your engines! Quoting Scotty Kilmer Guys (especially Ronnie,) after weeks of agony, imagining I had destroyed the electronics and dreading tearing out the BCM or more, sending it all in for repair and dealing the whole process, including the cost, after checking the fusible links and finding nothing, I decided to start again at the beginning by retesting the fuses next to the console and low and behold....... I found I had missed a very important fuse, the CPS (central power supply!) Seeing it was blown, I inserted a replacement fuse and heard a series of clicks followed by the interior lights coming on. Got my keys and, praying the the car gods, turned the key in the ignition and bam, the main display lit up and soon after the CRT! You can't imagine my response, had to play Beethoven's Ode to Joy to celebrate! So, many thanks once again for all your support and suggestions gentlemen. Now I can see by the car's self diagnosis that I have an electrical problem in engine control causing the rough running, my next challenge.