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Wow, thanks for the references! I guess I didn't do my homework enough, but I was able to figure it out with a bit of observational guesses. Next up is lots and lots of cleaning, but I can do that at my leisure.

Thanks 2seater, guess I’ll remove air box and check both 👍

The hood might just be stuck. Hold the hood release lever out and get someone to push up and down on the front of the hood and see if it pops up. I had this very same thing happen on an old Mercedes I bought and it took me quite a while to figure out why the hood wouldn't open.

I put my Reatta into my back garage for the winter. When i went to get it the hood latch did not open the hood. I am sumewhat disabled and need some info. Is there a way to open the hood without the latch puller? Does anyone sell latch lever set up? Thanks in advance

Well this isn’t the first time this specific headlight motor has had this problem of not working for a while then all of a sudden working again. im going to assume it’s gonna happen again. When it does? Any suggestions to diagnose it? Whats this about a brush inside the motor not making contact?

Be thankful and hope the problem doesn't return. 🙂

Before I had a chance to check it with a multimeter, it all of a sudden started working again. Any ideas?

It's not apparent from the manual how to take that rear piece out

Hi, sorry! I'm trying to point at it in the photo, but it's the little hump piece between the center console/armrest and the back of the cabin. I've been hoping I wouldn't have to remove the back parts, but I suspect I'll have to. Taking the interior and carpet out has been a good little learning experience

I would disconnect the motor and check the connector to see if 12 volts is getting to the motor when you try to open the doors.

I followed your suggestion, but The motor did not try to start running. Not even a sound from the motor. any other suggestions?

Good job! It looks great.

I don't think there is a relay that activates the motor. There is a headlight control module that operates them. It's possible the motor is bad but that is rare. There may be a brush inside the motor that's not making good contact with the motor commutator. Try having someone turn the manual knob as you push the button to open the doors and see if the motor tries to start running.

Hard to tell which end is up here 😂

A couple months ago I rebuilt both of my headlight motors. Now crank arm, rollers, etc. lights worked perfectly since then. starting last week, my passenger side headlight no longer comes up at all. It will still roll up and down when manually operated, but no longer operates electronically. since I’ve already rebuilt both motors, is there a separate relay for each motor, and the passenger side relay is bad? Or is the motor itself bad? How do I check the motor itself? I’ve verified it’s still plugged in.

If it comes from the engine via a steel line with a rubber hose on either end, it is the charcoal canister purge line which is under the engine air filter box. If it comes from the rear direction via a plastic or steel line, it is the vent line from the fuel tank to the canister and is a known problem child that is often too short.

Hi all, I have 1988 just getting back on the road, replaced a lot of deteriorated vacuum lines as the car was from Arizona and its old af. There is one vacuum line that goes under the engine compartment relay box on drivers side, any idea where it goes, trying to avoid unbolting everything to see where it goes. thanks in advance!

I haven't been doing much with my Reatta ('90 Convertible) but while I'm getting work done on the seats I'm tackling the interior. I've been working on removing the carpet but I've hit an obstacle when it comes to the floor carpet. Does anyone know how to safely remove this piece? It's the only thing holding the carpet down now, so once its gone I can really get to work haha.

Ship, I am a Blessed man, I still get up under the dash,, a bit of an issue getting back out and my eyes don't always see what I am looking for, and I turned 85 in Feb.

Yes, and the engine block is machined differently to accept either the counterbore or the chamfered style tensioner. I agree with 2seater that the incorrect tensioner was used and the bolt it hitting the cover.

It is no secret I do not like the new style chain damper because it fits lines up poorly on the chain, but it doesn't usually cause a direct fitment issue. There are two options for the damper, chamfered and countersunk bolts. I would bet the bolt is hitting the cover