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What did you do with your Reatta today.


DAVES89

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Going out to Gibson's today. I have to look for and pull another dash as the one I replaced in the Red about 5 years ago has also cracked. Not sure why I am so lucky...

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Okay just got back with a replacement dash and heater control module. The dash needs cleaning up before the install but the module is in. I now have heat AND A/C.  Before it was all A/C all the time.

I think I will try getting Bob to help with the install. It is a bit much for one guy.

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4 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

I think I will try getting Bob to help with the install. It is a bit much for one guy.

I hope installing a dash is a job I never have to take on.

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It's really not that hard, just takes time and to be careful. I've done about 5-6 dashes [One on the Black that 2 seaters son has, 3 on the Red and just an R&R  on the 'vert because of that phantom short we were looking for]. And then various removals on Reattas Kdirk and I parted out.

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Yesterday, I removed the power steering pump on my 88. I had bought a set of line wrenches from harbor freight, however they were all odd mm sizes and I ended up needing a 16 mm to remove the line coming out of the bottom of the pump. Returned the set and bought a 16/18 mm wrench from Autozone. It was easier to break loose the line after removing the pump from the brackets so I could turn the pump on its side than breaking lose while the pump is vertical (space is too tight to get a good handle on it). I put the wrench on the nut and used a hammer to break free the nut. My new pump is coming in the mail tomorrow. I found a used one from a junkyard in Colorado for $26. New valve cover gaskets are next and they are coming in Monday.

 

I also rechecked the lines with my black light and virtually zero leaks in the lines except one little leak where the line goes into the rack. Probably just needs tightening. I'm guessing the pump seal went bad. I tried stop leak but it was pouring out bad so stop leak can't fix a leak with that big of a gap.

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On 7/13/2022 at 9:25 PM, DAVES89 said:

I had my first "incident" with Rock Auto. Ordered some discontinued parts [GM crank sensors] and they got as far as Chicago. Fed ex was no help so the items are now lost. Had to wait 2 weeks for Fed ex to acknowledge a problem, then 4 more days to allow Rock Auto to do a trace. No parts, no luck. Just received a full credit for the two sensors, sales tax and freight.

 Back to even although I really wanted the GM sensors!

 So I just went to Amazon [we are Prime clients] and ordered two Standard crank sensors. $2.00 more each but no freight so I came out better then just ordering from Roack Auto and paying for freight.

I just received my order of two crank sensors. Opened the first box and found I was shipped one bracket and two sensors. Second box had one crank sensor and one bracket. looks like I got a three for two special!

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Tomorrow is a car show that Kendall likes to go to. I will be taking the Red while Kendall will be taking is all original 1969 Pontiac GTO. It is really a nice car and has less then 30,000 miles. He spent the winter replacing gaskets and water pump. And then freshening up the engine compartment so it looks close to new.

 I spent most of the day sprucing up my car. Looks pretty good, I won't be embarrassed. 

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Dave, if the car show does the traditional "hoods up", then bring your Pewter model and display it on the intake manifold.

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I would except Kendall likes to walk around and look at other cars. If I went for the walk I'd be missing it when I got back.

 Think I'll keep it on my desk...

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At the car show and as far as I can see, I'm the only Reatta. We have a great shaded spot and yet are on a main walking route.

 There is a guy here selling his 1989 TType 2 door black Le Sabre. Wants $4000 or offer. 

 I am so tempted!

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3 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

At the car show and as far as I can see, I'm the only Reatta. We have a great shaded spot and yet are on a main walking route.

 There is a guy here selling his 1989 TType 2 door black Le Sabre. Wants $4000 or offer. 

 I am so tempted!

Cooler heads prevailed. I would take it to Texas as a car for couples, but because it's a 2 door it would be harder to get a "senior in the back seat so I passed.

2 seater I did take the contact information for one of your sons...

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On 7/12/2022 at 7:43 PM, DAVES89 said:

Went over to Kendall's tonight [we try to shoot pool every Tuesday on his table] and I asked him to help me figure out why the relay isn't working in the socket. Prior to going over [two days ago] I swapped in a new relay with no results. So I pop the hood move the bar and take off the relay cover, start the car and try the left directional ... and it works!  I then try the right directional and that works too. So I am not sure as to why it didn't work at my house but works at Kendall's but everything seems to be good.

 The only other change I made was to replace the old battery as it wouldn't allow me to work on the car for more then a half hour before going dead. It was a used battery from Gibson's that was in for 5 years. Not bad for a $20.00 battery. BTW I bought a replacement at Gibson's, this one is 15 months old still under warranty from AutoZone and cost me another $20.00 with a core swap.

Now the directional works as it should but the same bulb doesn't illuminate while being used as a running light. Is it still the relay or should I look at the silver box that runs the directional?

 Every so often the left directional will"sit there" when return on the left directional. Then after 5 seconds or so it will begin to flash.

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Have not taken either the '00 Eldorado or the '91 Reatta out this past week to any cruise-ins due to the Northeast heat wave.  Temps consistently above 90* and tomorrow (Sunday) the heat index is supposed to hit 105*.  It may sound like I'm complaining but anything is better than snow.  Lawn looks like burnt hay.    

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I drove my Reatta for a while this morning before the temperature got up so high. Before I got home I was driving with the windows down and the AC on but it finally got too hot for that to. I wanted to go to a little car show but it's just too damn hot for that. It's been in the 90s, which isn't unusual for TN, but even by our standards the the humidity is off the charts. Doing anything outside is like walking around in hot bath water. I'm already looking forward to the fall of the year.

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34DC5076-D3FF-4B6B-A9C4-443CFFF91B60.thumb.jpeg.905e4a99e72a747873c04943cd0b066b.jpeg                                                                                                      I recently took my’ 88 to Cars and Coffee Columbia,SC.  I like these because they start at 7:30 am and break up around 10.

Hot and humid here all summer long, thankfully my AC is working well !

 

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On 7/22/2022 at 6:12 PM, DAVES89 said:

Now the directional works as it should but the same bulb doesn't illuminate while being used as a running light. Is it still the relay or should I look at the silver box that runs the directional?

 Every so often the left directional will"sit there" when return on the left directional. Then after 5 seconds or so it will begin to flash.

Didn't get an answer so I thought I would try again. Any advice on my flasher situation?

Also for some reason Amazon has AC Delco Silver front rotors for about $20.00 each and if you are Prime [like I am] no freight.

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On 7/22/2022 at 7:12 PM, DAVES89 said:

Now the directional works as it should but the same bulb doesn't illuminate while being used as a running light. Is it still the relay or should I look at the silver box that runs the directional?

 Every so often the left directional will"sit there" when return on the left directional. Then after 5 seconds or so it will begin to flash.

Dave, I didn't notice this before now. The turn signal module supplies power to the turn signal when it should be flashing. The "park light" relay (underhood box) supplies power to the same bulb when it isn't flashing.  Both of the ways the bulb is powered goes through the park/turn relay.

 

When the bulb is in parking mode, the power is routed from the relay through a "front park/turn" resistor that makes the bulb dimmer. That resistor ('89 FSM 8A 110-10) is like two resistors internally. One side of it goes to the left light bulb that you are having problems with and one side goes to the bulb on the right side of the car. Assuming the right side bulb is working as it should, the problem with the park light might be that the left side of the park/turn resistor is bad, or the wiring going between it and the bulb has a bad connection.  The FSM says the resistor is located in front of the radiator, right of the (driver) headlight assembly.

 

Hope this makes sense. If not let me know.

 

 

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I am chasing a inconsistent idle and engine performance problem.  I have replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor, timing chain and gears, throttle position sensor, water pump, battery, alternator, mass air flow sensor, took the idle control valve out, cleaned it and the port it goes into, (even though there was very little carbon build up if any at all) and I still have the same issue.  I am nearly certain it is an EGR issue and am going to order a new EGR valve. What's another 100 bucks spent on a car I really do like, but feel as if I am being nickeled and dimed to death. 

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Just so you know, most of the EGR can be disassembled and cleaned. The three solenoids are fixed but the pintles and ports are cleanable in case a little carbon is holding one open a bit. Each solenoid can be cycled in override mode to see if they are operational.

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41 minutes ago, 2seater said:

Just so you know, most of the EGR can be disassembled and cleaned. The three solenoids are fixed but the pintles and ports are cleanable in case a little carbon is holding one open a bit. Each solenoid can be cycled in override mode to see if they are operational.

Thank you for the tip.  I don't like just throwing new parts at something in "hopes" that it resolves an issue. I was rather surprised not finding an excessive amount of carbon in the IAC valve or the port thinking that was the problem for certain, but I cleaned it with carb cleaner anyway. I also sprayed an entire can of carb cleaner thru the throttle body and blew it dry. It ran great for about 20 mins, and then back to the same dilemma.  I even put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail with a 6 ft hose and went and drove it. 38-45 psi and never deviated from that, in thinking maybe the fuel pump was beginning to fail. 

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