Ronnie Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I would like to try that but I am out of state for the eclipse. I'm going outside to watch the eclipse. I'm going to try to get pictures of the total eclipse and of the Reatta while the sun is out and while it is dark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted August 21, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 Dave, there is a filter inside the reservoir just above the outlet for the pump (where the flexiible hose is connected). When fuid is rushing out of that port and you can not see any contamination inside the reservoir, it is probably good. The filter of my Reatta reservoir is clogged up so much, I can see only drops coming when the reservoir is full. About sending stuff to Germany: Naturally, I do not know the full procedure, but it can not be too difficult, as many are doing it. Any USPS/ Fedex/ UPS office will be happy to assist I guess. I never had any problem with a parcel from the US. I have just found me another motor/ pump assembly wich I want to try before I order from you. But I will definitely need the Reatta brake fluid reservoir. I will let you know. Have fun Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 If you can get pumps/motors you are doing fine. A tank will be easy to ship as it is so light. Let me know. There must be 8-10 cars out there with out pumps/motors. I know because I pulled them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I can vouch for Dave as well. These are pumps we tested to verify the pumps and pressure switches on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Thanks for the confirmation guys. Henning has gone through a lot on this car. I am hoping this is the last of his issues and he gets to drive the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted August 22, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Thank you for taking care of me guys. There is more work ahead of me until I get this car back on the road. My EBay unit arrived today. Looks like an older version of what I have: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 If you install that whole master cylinder & pump as a unit it will probably work. If it were me I would pass on it and find one with the steel line. The problem with that unit is you will be locked into using a pump assembly that has the banjo fitting and the hose. I'm pretty sure the style with the hose and style with the steel lines are not interchangeable. Dave will chime in and tell you for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I can confirm the hose style and steel line type do not interchange. They appear identical in all other respects so Dave gave me that pump for experimental purposes. I have thought about having the outlet port machined for the steel line fitting, but probably not worth the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted August 22, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Great, another 50 bucks wasted. I´m lovin´ it. Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Oops. I didn't notice that you said it had already arrived. I read your post too fast. I thought you were showing us a photo one you had found on eBay and I was recommending that you not buy it. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 It is not interchangeable with the 1989 and 1990. If you installed the entire unit that would work. As long as you have it why don't you try the tank? I would have chaged you at least $50.00 to get a tank to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted August 28, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Daves89, the tank from the spare Ford unit does not fit the Reatta unit. I think I know now, why my pump worked only once: The reason is I ran the pump from a reservoir without filter. The pump got contaminated and the pump plungers did not move in and out anymore. The inner elliptical shape of the pump rotor housing moves the plungers in, but only centrifugal force moves them out when the pump is running. Since the pump is not servicable, there is no way to free the plungers. I have tried it last weekend, but no success. I only managed to clean the reservoir filter so there is no need for that at the moment Have fun Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Are you saying you need a complete Teves unit or just a pump and motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted August 28, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Are you saying you need a complete Teves unit or just a pump and motor? Hi DAVES89, I do not need anything from you, thank you for asking. I need a pump, but those are available over here. It is in fact the only compatible part ( OK, the ball, too) when I buy a used Teves unit in Germany. In my last post I just wanted to explain how sensitive (and why) those pumps are. Have fun Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 I looked at the one pump I have with the motor removed and I do see the plate inside that retains the working parts is staked in place. I looked at the diagram of the pump supplied earlier which appears to be a typical vane type pump design but uses a roller and weight to press the roller against the housing. I suppose it could be worn enough or jammed somehow, but it looks like a pretty simple mechanism that should at least do something? I don't see any good way to flush it either and I am sure you have tried just about anything I could imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted August 28, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 I looked at the one pump I have with the motor removed and I do see the plate inside that retains the working parts is staked in place. I looked at the diagram of the pump supplied earlier which appears to be a typical vane type pump design but uses a roller and weight to press the roller against the housing. I suppose it could be worn enough or jammed somehow, but it looks like a pretty simple mechanism that should at least do something? I don't see any good way to flush it either and I am sure you have tried just about anything I could imagine. Hi 2seater, I think I will take an angle grinder and cut one of the pumps I have open. Then we shall see what is inside. Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 2seater, It's odd that you bring this up. I was looking at the pump just this morning. If you will take a closer look I think you will see that the pump isn't a vane type of pump but is a positive displacement pump that uses small pistons to build pressure in the system. This pump appears to me to have 2 pistons that are moved in and out by the eccentric design of the inside of the pump housing. Fluid fills the area on the top of the piston through the notch in the shaft when the piston is at the bottom position of the pump rotation. (Fluid is trapped on top of the piston in a tiny cylinder.) As the piston is rotated to the top position it is being moved inward by the eccentric pump housing and the fluid in the cylinder is squeezed out by the piston as the pump turns. At the top position the fluid is then forced out into the port that goes to the accumulator and master cylinder via the notch in the pump shaft which it turned toward the port. That tiny piston working in that manner is capable of building tremendous pressure with very little horsepower driving the pump. I hope this all makes sense. Now, If you look at the pump from the point of view of it using a piston to displace fluid and build pressure, you will see that it would be extremely hard to get air out of the bottom part of the pump if you rely on nothing but gravity to push the air out once the pump has been completely drained. Follow the fluid flow (highlighted in light blue) from the intake port that connects to the reservoir - to the bottom of the pump - and then through the piston chambers to where it is pressurized (darker blue) at the top of the pump shaft. It would be a miracle to get air to follow that path while the pump is trying to build pressure. All the ways of bleeding the brake pump that we have talked about before only covers bleeding air from the top part of the pump and NOT the bottom area where fluid is introduced INTO the pistons I'm thinking that a new way of bleeding the pump is needed to get the air through bottom of the pump and through the pistons to the top of the pump and out of the system. Perhaps it is as simple as removing the check valve and screwing in a fitting with a hose to the reservoir that would allow the air to circulate out the top without having any pressure on it. I'm sure Henning would appreciate any ideas on how to bleed all the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Ronnie, you are right. The housing is the common off center type but It pumps through the center rather than the perimeter :( My bad. I have looked at the check valve chamber before but I didn't try very hard to remove the check valve itself. I do have the sacrificial pump with the early style hose that is otherwise useless to me so ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Part of the issue is the inlet port from the reservoir comes in at about the 1:00 o'clock position, facing the pump from the motor end. The air must get out the same way to fill the main chamber but the inlet hose angles up to the pump so there is an effective air lock regarding any possibility of air migrating back up to the reservoir over time. It looks like the only way the air will purge is through the pump. I was unsuccessful removing the check valve but it seems to have light spring pressure holding it open which may allow air to escape just through gravity over time but no proof. Unfortunately the two pumps I have are disassembled or I would try connecting the test rig to see if air will migrate out through the check assembly just from gravity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 It seems odd that a check valve would have spring pressure holding it open. It seems like it should have spring pressure holding it on it's seat. Perhaps it is held open to allow air to easily escape when there is no pressure in the boost side of the system?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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