Ronnie Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 It looks good. I think it will do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 How is the transmission job going? Please keep us updated on what you do to get the transmission out and repairing it. Photos would be great. I admire you for willing to jump in and do this job yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted June 21, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 FYI. Just to help me not forget anything I bought a Haynes repair manual for late eighties GM cars that have the same engine and front wheel drive setup. Though it is not for this exact car it does cover all steps for dis-assembly. It also has pics and part numbers for tools and methods. Just taking my time. I have been working on it a little bit every once in a while. I ended up pulling the lower control arms off to replace the rubber bushings, Figured while they are off the car I might as well replace the lower ball joints. Today I removed the starter, unbolted the starter ring gear/torque converter and drained the trans fluid then dropped the bottom pan off to have a look see. The magnet has collected a lot of metal dust over the years and the pan had a coating (like a greasy slimy layer) on the bottom. I had once put on one those split boots on the CV axle. It threw grease all over the place so I decided at re=assembly I will replace both outer boots with correct one piece units. Next I'll be disconnecting vacuum lines, electrical connections and start unbolting the trans. from the car. It looks like I'm going to have to do some cleanup and repairs to the cradle section that I will be dropping out. Ron, What kind of pictures and information would you want? Meanwhile I'm still working on trying to get something together for sourcing the Intermediate brake cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Ron, What kind of pictures and information would you want? Well, I don't really know. I guess the part that is a mystery for me is what needs to be done to get the cradle and suspension loose so you can get the transmission out. Do you have to remove the steering rack and pinion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted June 21, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Well I already have the axles out. I didn't take pics as I took it apart. I can take pics as I go back together if you want. I didn't have an 18MM wrench or socket and they are needed for this job. I bought a combination wrench, a ratcheting combination wrench and 3/8 drive sockets. Remember I'm working with the car on a lift so I have it pretty easy to get under it and if I need to go in up top I just lower the car. I'm going from memory with this right at the moment. I will come back and edit if any corrections are needed. So far step by step; 1) remove tires 2) unbolt calipers and hang them up out of the way. Leave the brackets on for the next step. 3) insert a bar or screwdriver into the vent slot in the rotor (to wedge up against the caliper bracket) and loosen the 36MM center axle nut. I didn't take the nuts all the way off yet. 4) remove the ABS brackets / sensors and hang them up out of the way. I also removed the brake caliper brackets and sway bar links at this time. 5) disconnect the tie rod ends (puller) and lower ball joints (ball joint fork) 6) remove the axle nuts and push the axles out of the hubs (puller). It will fight you at this point trying to get the axle all the way out of the hub. I removed the whole lower control arm because the rubber bushings were all dried and cracked. This also made it easier to push the axles out of the hub. Now a word of caution. I remember reading somewhere that its is possible for the axle to separate internally at the CV joint so use caution. I then tied the axles up (hanging from the suspension spring) so it wouldn't drop out. 7) I unbolted the starter (left the wires attached) and hung it from the dip stick tube. I removed the ring gear / torque converter cover. (3 bolts 10MM) 8) Put a mark (I used some white paint) on the ring gear to torque converter so that it will re-assemble to the same location. then unbolt the torque converter. (3 bolts 18MM) 9) I chose to drain the transmission (I removed the bottom pan slowly) at this time because I didn't know if fluid would leak out at the axle inputs when I pulled the axles. 10) Remove the two axle shafts. The manual shows to use a slap hammer style puller with a "C" shaped attachment. I was able to get them out just using a prybar. I think that brings it to where I am right now. If needed I will go back and edit this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Good write up. Don't go to too much trouble documenting what you do. Not many people would tackle this job but it is interesting to know how you do it. I hope I never have to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 That's a better write up then what I did from memory. Sounds like you got a good handle on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 10, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 I have the transmission out. I had to drop out half of the cradle to get the tranny down. The cradle has bolts at the front right and rear left. It is basically an "L" shape. Not too bad. The transmission to block bolts weren't too bad except there is one bolt put in from the opposite side. I used three long extensions on the ratchet and stood on the passenger side to feed it in (above the transmission in back of the engine) to reach the bolt. So I took the side cover off and the shift detent is right there behind a couple of tubes. I unbolted the top nut and took off the park / neutral switch. Then half of the shaft easily slides right up and out of the transmission. It is sheared off where there is an undercut for a locking pin. The rest of the shaft is down in the hole. I took the nut off the bottom but I cannot slide the last part of the shaft out because the locking pin is there. Problem is that the locking pin doesn't just pull out or thread out easily. I don't want to damage anything else so I am treading lightly. I also don't think I can get another shaft unless I tear into another transmission. I fear that if I go to a salvage yard they will only sell me a whole transmission. We will see. I have a few other things going on this week (wedding and a funeral) so I may not get any time with the project. By the way I asked a rebuilder how much. Told him I would drop and pick up the transmission because it's already out of the car. He quoted $1,500.00. Yeah.... NO! park lock and detent.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 I hope this turns out to be an easy fix for you. $1500 is ridiculous. I use to work in a garage that rebuilt transmissions. The owner was reluctant to go behind someone else's work. That's probably the mentality of the guy you talked to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 It's too bad you didn't break the pin before I swapped my tranny out. The local You Pick I go to gave me $10.00 for scrap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 10, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 It's too bad you didn't break the pin before I swapped my tranny out. The local You Pick I go to gave me $10.00 for scrap... Yes. I agree. I don't know if any pick a part yards around here will let me tear into a transmission to get these parts out of it. I might end up buying a whole darn transmission anyway! I posted pics at the AACA website showing the Dutchman pin and the sheared shaft. At this point I'm considering researching what transmissions are compatible and just buy one from the salvage yard and put it in. But then I don't know if it has any shifting issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 fordrodsteven, how about this one: https://www.gmpartsprime.com/oem/gm-8646946-shaft.html Or try here: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ No need to rip a trans apart for that shaft. Have fun Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 10, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 fordrodsteven, how about this one: https://www.gmpartsprime.com/oem/gm-8646946-shaft.html Or try here: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ No need to rip a trans apart for that shaft. Have fun Henning Thank you Henning. I have not been able to find or cross reference that shaft (8646946) anywhere. When I put the superceding number (24236102) into GMPARTSDIRECT it is listed as a "lever" I will buy it (it's $25.00 including shipping) and see if it's the right part. After all I've already spent hundreds more than I wanted to on this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 ... After all I've already spent hundreds more than I wanted to on this car. Welcome to the reality of Reatta ownership! Most of us have been there and done that. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Ron Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 I found a site that lists junk yard parts around the country. Try www.car-parts.com I see that some of the yards have our transmission for $200 + shipping. Not sure if they have a warranty though. I feel your pain brother. My wife has the same attitude. I thought that selling my Corvette would make her happy but she sure does not like me spending money on the Reatta either! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 11, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 I found a site that lists junk yard parts around the country. Try www.car-parts.com I see that some of the yards have our transmission for $200 + shipping. Not sure if they have a warranty though. I feel your pain brother. My wife has the same attitude. I thought that selling my Corvette would make her happy but she sure does not like me spending money on the Reatta either! She says she won't mind me spending money on the Thunderbird but then I've had the Thunderbird for 42 years now. She hates that I fix one thing on the Reatta then a short time later there's something else. I told her a thirty year old car that was not well maintained before I got it will need attention to be completely sorted out. She understands but would rather I only keep one "money pit" and she knows the Thunderbird is the "keeper". It has traveled the country with us (four moves due to job transfers & layoffs) and it didn't even have an engine / transmission in it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 It would be different if this was your only "money pit" but when you have two different vehicles they don't understand. I think my wife started looking at me a little differently when I got my second one, but I explained it off as my "winter" Reatta. Then that made sense as I always had a winter car after I got the Red. Of course getting the 'vert was an easy sale. What woman doesn't want to drive around in a 'vert on a beautiful day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 15, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 I ordered the "lever" shaft (24236102) on-line. When I clicked on GMPARTSDIRECT it took me to "FLOW CHEVROLET" . I submitted the order on July 10th. Today (July 15th) it says it is "on order". I'm getting a bad feeling I might soon get a message that the part is unavailable. Dang it!. I decided to check for any other sources just in case and I found one on E-Bay with a picture. They changed the design when they superceded the part. It no longer has the threaded extension on the bottom. That means for me to use it I may have to remove the valve body from my transmission in order to have clearance to slide the shaft up into the hole. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tQoAAOxy0zhTOvcz/s-l1600.jpg[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztec62 Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 fordrodsteven, You are lucky you had acess to the shaft at all without removing the valve body. I was pretty certain it is not possible. Removing the valve body is where the fun starts... Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 16, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 fordrodsteven, You are lucky you had acess to the shaft at all without removing the valve body. I was pretty certain it is not possible. Removing the valve body is where the fun starts... Henning I'm thinking I might ask at a local machine shop for a quote to make a shaft rather than dig any deeper into the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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