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Ronnie's New Toy - off topic (Mercedes)


Ronnie

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I finally got a little time to work on the Mercedes today. I installed the new fuel filter and fresh gas. After purging old gas and air in the fuel line through the Shrader valve I turned the key and it fired right up. I drove around a few minutes and got a check engine light. Scanner showed a code P1444. Mercedes guys say it is common and usually caused by a bad vacuum line going to the purge valve, or it could be a bad purge valve.  I cleared the code and so far it's not came back. I've not driven it much on dry rotted tires. I've decided my speed limit is 45 mph until I get some different tires. I hate the black paint. Every time I tough it the damn thing it makes it look dirty. 🙂 

 

Below is a photo of how I think a Mercedes is supposed to look in a garage. Only thing missing is a mechanic (me) laying under it. Kind of reminds me of a Reatta. lol

 

fuel filter replacement.jpg

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The Black Baby Doll got new shoes today. Now I can drive it without fear of having a blowout with the dry rotted tires. Still have several things I need to do but it's coming along.

 

My old truck sitting outside doesn't like the Mercedes taking it's parking spot. Something is going need to go before winter gets here. Wife has already said it' not going to be her Equinox. 🙂 

 

Mercedes 6-12-23.jpg

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Any possibility of parking the Reatta sideways in the garage during the winter to allow your truck in?

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18 minutes ago, ship said:

Any possibility of parking the Reatta sideways in the garage during the winter to allow your truck in?

Maybe, but the Cub Cadet Zero Turn mower would have to be moved to a different location.

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You can park it in my garage. I am one car short now that I sold the Black '88...

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31 minutes ago, ship said:

Ronnie, think either car igloo or lawn mower igloo!

Sadly, my subdivision rules don't allow any portable buildings or structures. I would have to build a garage that matches the house.

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Yesterday afternoon when driving the Mercedes the check engine light came on.  My OBD2 scanner works on it and it found a code P1444. A little searching on the Mercedes forum found that it is a common problem of the purge canister valve sticking open. 

 

This morning took the valve off. It was an easy job to remove since it right out in the open so you can get to it.  I sprayed MAF sensor into the opening where the vacuum lines connect and let it soak for a while as described on the Mercedes forum. Reinstalled the valve and went for a drive through the country.

 

I drove for about 70 miles round trip and the check engine light didn't come back on. Maybe I can check that off the list of things to do to the Mercedes.

 

I still have a pretty big list of maintenance items to take care of. Front brake pads are worn, Dry rotted serpentine belt, Broken antenna cable, Bad power mirror switch, Sagging headliner, Paint needs buffing and waxing. Waiting for the parts to be delivered from Amazon. I've still got plenty to do when the parts arrive. 🙂 

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This morning I tried the power sunroof to see if it would work. It hadn't been opened since 2008. First I pushed the button to make the back of the glass sunroof tilt up. I heard a little pop like it was stuck and then it went up. It has a bellows between the roof and the glass so I cleaned it and the seal around the glass really good before closing it back down. Tried the tilt function again and it went right up without making any strange noises. Next I tried opening the sunroof that slides back into the roof. I was nervous about doing this. I was afraid it would open and not close back. To my surprise it worked like new, both back and forward. The person I got the car from, my 2nd cousin, said the sunroof had only been used a handful of times since her parents bought the car new. Another thing I can check off my list of things that need attention.

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The power mirror knob (bottom in photo below) was broken off so I installed a new switch module today that also includes all the power window switches.  Didn't even need any tools.

 

The center console top just snaps out of the console and slips over the shifter. Then you just slide 2 locking tabs made into the back of the switch module to remove the module from the console top. On the back of the module are three small wire connectors to unplug. Reverse the procedure and your done.  Why can't GM make things so simple?

 

Total cost of the new (Chinese) module was $34.92 from Amazon. I think Mercedes dealer price is nearly $200.00. Hope I don't have to buy any parts from the dealer.

 

window switch module.jpg

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Time to work on the power antenna. Unlike the Reatta that usually has the cable that drives the mast break, the Mercedes is prone to breaking a little tab (see red arrow) on one of the gears the runs the mast up and down. The cable going to the mast on a Mercedes has teeth on it that is pushed up and down by the teeth on the gear. Luckily the cure for the problem is just using epoxy glue to put the tab back on the gear.

 

The gear on the left with the big spring goes on top of the gear with the red arrow. Together they act as spring loaded clutch to prevent damage to the cable when the mast abruptly reaches the end of it's travel. The antenna motor is shut off by a current sensing module attached to the antenna, much like what is done to shut off the Reatta headlight motors when they reach the end of their travel.

 

power antenna (2).jpg

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Those seem to be quick and easy fixes Ronnie. Are you discovering these repairs on your own or using a forum or Youtube?

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I'm using BenzWorld.org forum and Youtube. About everything you would ever need to know is there. You just have to do a lot of searching to find it. BenzWorld is huge like the AACA but it has one forum dedicated to the Mercedes like I have. So far I've only needed to post 3 or 4 questions to ask for help so far.

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I started collecting old cars in 2010.  AFTER I found my first car, I discovered the value of these forums.  I would be lost without them.  But as Ronnie said, sometimes it can be difficult to find the good ones.

 

 

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I got the new Gates serpentine belt from Amazon yesterday. I installed it this morning while it was cool in the garage. About the same as installing a belt on a 3800. The tensioner is a little different but basically the same procedure.

 

While installing the belt I noticed the engine vibration damper shock had a little side play where it mounted in the bracket on the engine. I removed the bolt holding it and stuck a rubber washer beside it while the belt was off to take up the slack. Probably didn't need that but I didn't want the metal eye on the shock getting against the metal bracket and causing a vibration.

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56 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

A little gunshy on a vibration situation Ronnie? Lol

Yep. Seems like once you get it it's hard to get rid of. I decided to try to nip it in the bud. 🙂 

 

image.jpeg

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I keep wondering about that little shock if MB uses one similar to the later Reatta's? Is it related to the weird vibration that could be absorbed by that little thing? My V6 Ford Ranger has one too. I left it off on both my sons Red 89 and my 90 when I did the S/C. I have not noticed any adverse reaction to doing so?

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2seater, your post got me to wondering about the little shock so I went to rockAuto to get a look at it. They list it as a belt tensioner damper. I looked under the hood of my Mercedes and they are correct. It goes between a bracket on the block and the belt tensioner pullly as shown in the photo below. I've not saw the little shock on a Reatta. My '88 doesn't have one. From what I've read and photos I've seen I envision the one on the MB to be much bigger than the Reatta. It is about 9" long, about 1-1/4" in diameter and has an eye mount on each end. I wonder if that is the one some people use to replace the little shock on the Reatta engine?

 

tensioner shock.jpg

Part image

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