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So I bought a reatta... It's got issues


jg2003

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Hello all,

 

I have recently become the owner of a 1991 reatta it's a pretty cool car. However I've come across two issues one the car shut down 3 times while driving. It said low oil and completely shut off and left me stranded for a bit however the car definitely had oil. I waited a bit it and it starts again the guy said it might be the fuel pump and gave me a part for it. #1 what do you think the issue might be and #2 how much would it cost?.

 

The second major issue is that the car didn't like being locked and decided to go into the infamous blinking security mode car won't start and the keyfob doesn't do anything. Do I have to reprogram the keyfob or can I just bypass the system and would taking it to a locksmith or car alarm place help? The car is currently giving me headaches -_-

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You should be able to kill the alarm horn blaring by putting the key in the drivers door lock and turning the key. If you want to permanently disable the alarm, try this: Reatta Owners Journal     

You may have a bad oil pressure sensor, I think it cuts power to the fuel pump if it reads low oil pressure. Just a guess.

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Welcome to the forum!

 

10 hours ago, jg2003 said:

It said low oil and completely shut off and left me stranded for a bit however the car definitely had oil.

I wonder if the engine had died for some other reason causing there to actually be no oil pressure? It shutting down and then starting again when it cools off sounds more like an ignition problem. Usually the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is the problem. Look to see if you have any gray goo on the side of it like shown in the photo below.

 

ICM-magnavox-goo.jpg

 

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A 91 should have the Delco ignition. Can monitor whether the fuel pump is getting power with a trouble light on the green prime connector. Bishko has a CD of the 1991 Service manual but are usually cheaper on eBay.

"It said low oil" - could be the oil pressure sensor on the oil filter, will turn off the fuel pump. If that should crank, run for a second, and quit.

Edited by Padgett
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7 hours ago, rogold said:

You should be able to kill the alarm horn blaring by putting the key in the drivers door lock and turning the key. If you want to permanently disable the alarm, try this: Reatta Owners Journal     

You may have a bad oil pressure sensor, I think it cuts power to the fuel pump if it reads low oil pressure. Just a guess.

Okay so it seems that turning the key stopped the horn however car still has the relay going for the lights and it won't start. Do you think that disconnecting the battery should restart it?

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Driver's side door doesn't want to lock with the key only the passenger side door locks and unlocks when I try and crank the car dash lights up and low oil indicator comes on try and crank and nothing happens. The security light keeps flashing even after unlocking the door on the driver's side along with the lights flashing and a tick tock sound which I'm assuming is the relay disabling the starter?20230126_120710.thumb.jpg.5d06191cd23406848cada995649dfcd7.jpg

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20230126_120543.jpg

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52 minutes ago, jg2003 said:

Driver's side door doesn't want to lock with the key only the passenger side door locks and unlocks when I try and crank the car dash lights up and low oil indicator comes on try and crank and nothing happens. The security light keeps flashing even after unlocking the door on the driver's side along with the lights flashing and a tick tock sound which I'm assuming is the relay disabling the starter?20230126_120710.thumb.jpg.5d06191cd23406848cada995649dfcd7.jpg

20230126_120522.jpg

20230126_120543.jpg

Okay figured out the security system with the aftermarket fob was able to crank idled then sputtered

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3 minutes ago, jg2003 said:

Okay figured out the security system with the aftermarket fob was able to crank idled then sputtered

You're making progress. You need to check the fuel pressure and see if it drops when the engine sputters or dies.

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38 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

You're making progress. You need to check the fuel pressure and see if it drops when the engine sputters or dies.

One small item to note about the pressure. I think it is the same three bar as the LN3, and even the injector flow is the same but with a different part number? The rated pressure is stamped on the side of the upper visible part of the regulator. I only mention the possibility because I was surprised to find the pressure was actually lower (2.7bar) on the similar style regulator for the 1995 S/C engine🙃

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LN3 spec is 40 psi at 1800. L27 is 60psi.

 

"able to crank idled then sputtered " sure sounds like the 2 second prime shot is working but then the oil pressure switch is supposed to take over. Can monitor fuel pump voltage at prime connector. GM oil pressure senders are notorious for failing just make sure you get one for an L27 and not an LN3.

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1 hour ago, Padgett said:

sure sounds like the 2 second prime shot is working but then the oil pressure switch is supposed to take over.

Just a little food for thought. I don't know if the following applies to a '91 model but it does to my '88 model.

 

IF the ECM and fuel pump relay are working properly you should be able to unplug the oil pressure sensor/switch and the engine will start and run without problems. I have done it before to prove it. 

 

Here is what should happen for the car to start and run normally from a fuel pressure point of view...

-When you turn the key to the run position the ECM should pick up the fuel pump relay for a few seconds to prime the system - then drop it out. This should happen each time your turn the key off and then to the run position. 

-Once the engine starts, the ECM gets a signal from the crankshaft position sensor that the engine is turning and it will pick up the fuel pump relay and keep it latched in to power the fuel pump as long as the engine is running. (blue circuit below)

 

Now, here is where the oil pressure sensor/switch comes in...

-As long as the engine has oil pressure the contacts in the oil pressure sensor bypass the fuel pump relay and power the fuel pump (yellow circuit) even if the relay is bad. 

 

If any of this is suspect, applying 12 volts to the prime connector will run the fuel pump so you can test the pressure. You can even start the car if the pump is capable of building adequate pressure.

 

fuel_pump_circui-2t.jpg.37a8a7f03edc5d91

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Alright MAJOR update car runs however first two cranks it sputtered but on the third crank it got going and idled at 10ish it dipped below that a bit. The first two times it was going then it died out sorta like what happened on the road.

 

I'm getting oil pressure however on one of the starts it started idling but then slowly started lowering oil pressure then it noticeably lost power I turned it off cranked again and it stayed at idle.

 

During the last attempt while at idle at some point the dash stopped displaying rpm then it suddenly came back in the span of 2 minutes the whole time the car was idling no issue. Car was sitting so oil is dirty going to do an oil change on the weekend. Today we ran some fuel system cleaner through it by the end of our test it had started running smoother.

 

The pictures included show idle, when the rpm stopped displaying and should my voltage meter should it be at that level?

 

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IMG_20230126_182414_035.jpg

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Edited by jg2003
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The rpm signal comes from the ICM. Did the engine continue to run without the rpm display? The voltage displayed is normal with the engine running. By and large, the indicators are designed to be at approximately the middle of the range if everything is normal. The fuel level is of course variable. If oil pressure is normal with a proper sender, it rarely deviates one bar higher or lower than center, no matter the rpm or temperature. The pressures mentioned in the above post are for oil pressure, not fuel pressure as I had posted.

 

Any possibility of mouse chewed wiring? Still need a fuel pressure gauge to establish if the pump is at fault or something else. At least it runs, which is a positive.

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2 hours ago, 2seater said:

The rpm signal comes from the ICM. Did the engine continue to run without the rpm display? The voltage displayed is normal with the engine running. By and large, the indicators are designed to be at approximately the middle of the range if everything is normal. The fuel level is of course variable. If oil pressure is normal with a proper sender, it rarely deviates one bar higher or lower than center, no matter the rpm or temperature. The pressures mentioned in the above post are for oil pressure, not fuel pressure as I had posted.

 

Any possibility of mouse chewed wiring? Still need a fuel pressure gauge to establish if the pump is at fault or something else. At least it runs, which is a positive.

Yes the car kept running without the display. And I'll make sure to checkout the the wires and the Icm. For the fuel pressure could you give me some ways of figuring that one out?

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I just have a good fuel pressure tester from the pre-Kmart Sears. You connect it to the rail shrader valve. Should be 35-40 psi at Idle. Might also check the fuel relief valve for gas in the vacuum line, they fail also.

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Okay so I'm going to buy the gauge and get myself a harbor freight special lol. But quick question I noticed that when the dash stops showing rpm while running the engine sounds louder. And when it shows rpms the engine sounds noticeably quieter. Anyone know why that might be also the car is starting regularly it just takes like two cranks.

 

Also side note is it normal for the car to shake with the engine on? it's noticeable so just thought I'd ask.

Edited by jg2003
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1 hour ago, Padgett said:

Never saw a HF gas pressure gauge that didn't leak. Caveat y'all.

Do you recommend any specific brands? just trying to get one quickly to check the pressure.

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