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Reatta in Germany - Rear axle rust


Aztec62

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Hello,

Pulled the rear axle recently to renew the brake line attached to it.

I have found two big rust holes under the rubber blocks which are sitting on top.

 

Sorry, photos are upside down.

 

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yes it is common on cars that have begun to rust. My car had the driver's side completely rusted away and the other side beginning to rust. The car would thump loudly at the rear when I went over a manhole or pothole. I thought it was the strut. Turned out it was the top of the strut hitting on the top of the wheel well. The rear wasn't really connected / bolted in on the driver's side. The only thing stopping it from sliding forward or back was the trailing arm. I bought a complete used (good condition) rear end from Dan Herrick in Flint Michigan then I drove there to pick it up (also visited relatives in MI while I was there.) I remember reading that you were trying to figure out how to get a windshield to Germany. I don't know how you would get a rear end to Germany. My advice in looking at your pictures would be a fabricated plates to be put over the holes you currently have. I would sandblast and treat the areas then weld on plates.

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fordrodsteven,

"My advice in looking at your pictures would be a fabricated plates to be put over the holes you currently have. I would sandblast and treat the areas then weld on plates."

This is exactly what I will do.

I just thought my findings are of interest for the forum.

 

Thanks for your help!

Henning

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I had a similar rust trouble but mine was on the drivers side rear strut tower was rusted.  I had the rear axle off the car and I took it to a welding shop where they cut the rust off then cleaned the strut tower then welded a new top on the strut tower.  I believe you can weld on a plate and maintain a good mounting for the rubber bushing to the frame.  Good Luck with the welding because I doubt you will find a rear axle in Germany.

 

For those who have not had your rear axle off the frame, there is two mounting bolts that go through the axle (as shown in his photo) to the frame and two bolts that mount the pivoting control arms to the frame.  By removing these 4 bolts the rear axle will be sitting on the floor.  For what its worth.

 

Woody

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BTW. If you are going to replace the cradle bushings while you're there with the rear cradle out you should look in the tutorials section. There is a listing that tells what P/N to buy. There was also a posting / demonstration done by machiner55 when he was repairing his. I can't remember if it was on this web site or the AACA web site

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fordrodsteven has a good point. If your Reatta is that rusty in the rear you should check the front cradle bushings. They are prone to rusting. Below is a photo of what can happen when they bolts that hold the bushing rusts away. Here is a link with information about the front cradle bushings. Engine Cradle/Sub-Frame Bushing Replacement

Cradle_bushing_rust.thumb.jpg.531fa2f1d35ff595090ac52a7ba332d0.jpg

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I have tried to order with the p/n mentioned in the tutorial. These are all "discontinued". A search with the original p/n (I have an original Reatta/ Riviera parts cataloge, but do not have the number available as of writing this) returned a hit. They are available at about 50$ each from www.gmpartsgiant.com.


fordrodsteven has a good point. If your Reatta is that rusty in the rear you should check the front cradle bushings. They are prone to rusting. Below is a photo of what can happen when they bolts that hold the bushing rusts away. Here is a link with information about the front cradle bushings. Engine Cradle/Sub-Frame Bushing Replacement

 

Thanks Ronnie,

but the front cradle looks good on my car. Will double-check though.

 

Henning

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Which parts are you saying are "discontinued"? I ran the rear insulator part numbers at gmpartsdirect.com and it looks like they are available. The other part numbers listed in the front cradle procedure are "Dorman" parts and you would buy those from any parts store (Autozone , O'reilly's, Advance Auto)

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Which parts are you saying are "discontinued"? I ran the rear insulator part numbers at gmpartsdirect.com and it looks like they are available. The other part numbers listed in the front cradle procedure are "Dorman" parts and you would buy those from any parts store (Autozone , O'reilly's, Advance Auto)

 

Hmm,

just tried www.gmpartsdirect.com.

3538757 is discontinued

11517635 is available

25678602 is available

 

Henning

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Try E-bay for 3538757. Tasca Parts Center shows four available for $45,99 each.

 

Tried...no hit returned.

 

Amazon.com lists them.

 

Or try Tasca parts directly (www.tascaparts.com) , 34, 21$ each

 

To put it short, anyone who needs them can (still) find them

 

Henning

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Still repairable but a full swap out is preferred. I don't know where you can find one in Germany. I bought a fully equipped unit from Dan Herrick in Michigan but I don't know if he is still selling Reatta parts. He just undid the four bolts and disconnected the intermediate cable at the front connection. He cut the brake line and I got the whole thing as a one piece complete unit. Good luck getting yours sorted.

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Ouch. That is rather severe, and is certainly unsafe in its current condition. It can be repaired, but will be a lot of fabrication and welding, plus sandblasting and repainting of the cross member. The Cadillac Allante and Eldorado (1992-94 for the latter I believe) used the same rear cradle assembly, but with different struts. You may have marginally better luck finding one of those cars in Europe, while another Reatta will be nearly impossible to track down. The Riviera through 1993 would use the same rear cradle assembly, but those are not common either, especially outside.the US.

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Never mind. I will have it repaired. Interesting, untill I decided to remove the struts the rust spot was not visible at all.

The rust is hiding under the rubber elements.

 

Henning

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