CarrieJT Posted September 22, 2022 Share Posted September 22, 2022 After sitting almost 6 years, I am trying to get it up and going. Engine cranks and will run as long as carb cleaner sprayed into it. No fuel pump sound. No dash lights except ABS. No crt. Seats move, but no windows moving. I put in steering column from an 89 i have for parts. Checked fuses under dash while it was out. From reading some of the posts here, my guess is the it's one of the computer ( sorry I'm relearning the terms) . I can take one from the 89 and put in the 88, but I don't know about reprogramming or if it is necessary. Any thoughts are so appreciated.... Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 Welcome to the forum. Sounds like a fuel pump ,ight be the problem with it not running. Have you checked fuel pressure? You should start a new topic for each problem. It is less confusing than trying to troubleshoot all the problems at once.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 23, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 Thank you for responding. I wasn't sure if the fuel pump was controlled by one of the computers, or rather that it's power came thru there first. That was why I added all that. I finally found the green plug to jump 12v to and it was dead. It was just hanging there and I didn't know if it needed to be plugged in somewhere? I pulled the relay and did a jumper on it too and nothing. But the windows are on same block and they don't work either. All my grounds that I could find were still tight. So I was just wondering if it was a bigger power source...instead of the actual pump. In other words I don't think it's getting power at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 1 hour ago, CarrieJT said: I finally found the green plug to jump 12v to and it was dead. It was just hanging there and I didn't know if it needed to be plugged in somewhere? Your first step is to see if the pump is capable of running. Connect a jumper wire between the green connector and the positive post on the battery. That jumper will bypass all the fuses, relays and computers and supply 12 volts directly to the pump. That should make the pump run as long as the jumper is connected. You might have to remove the gas cap and put your ear up to the filler hole to hear the pump run. It's not very loud. And don't confuse the sound of the brake pump running for the sound of the fuel pump. If you have a gauge (tester) to check fuel pressure you should have it connected to the fuel rail so you can read how much pressure the pump is putting out. If the pump doesn't run with the jumper wire connected, try banging on the bottom of the tank with your hand while the jumper is still hooked up. Sometimes that will cause the pump to start running if the car hasn't been started for a long time. I've had that happen before. If you do all this and the pump runs, we can move on to doing more tests to determine your problem. Don't worry about all that other stuff until you get the engine running. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 23, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 Ok so the green wire doesn't actually plug into anything? I'll see what happens with a different battery. Thank you again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 23, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 So..update. I'm sure you're right about the pump..I put 12v to green deal and nothing. I checked the fuel pump relay connection and it seems to have power where the tutorial said it should..(although connector is ugly it appears functional) I checked wires I side fender near the green fuel pump primer thing and found rat chewed wires. Here is a picture. Not sure if it is involved with fuel pump or not. I do have fuel in the rail and it wofts up at Schrader valve to a trickle. No spray of 40lbs pressure or so ... Looks like fuel pump. I did beat on bottom of fuel tank to no avail..but I did find I had been relieved of my catalytic converter..on both cars...🙄 I don't really have any help so any suggestions for easy removal of tank? I've dropped them in a jeep Cherokee before but that was ten years ago...and I have slim arms long fingers So I just dropped the front and did not remove completely. Any such luck with my Reatta? Thank you again... I'd cut an access panel if it was a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 23, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 This was the chewed up wires in the quarter panel by the green fuel pump primer thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 (edited) Looks like they got the cover but only one wire. Does the fuel gauge work ? AFAIR the fule pump Only odd part I remember about dropping the tank is the sway bar must be removed also. BTW a fuel pump should show under 10 ohms on the green connector. If a lot then next step is to drop the tank and check there. Just saw the Oklahoma. Edited September 23, 2022 by Padgett 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 1 hour ago, CarrieJT said: I don't really have any help so any suggestions for easy removal of tank? I've dropped them in a jeep Cherokee before but that was ten years ago...and I have slim arms long fingers So I just dropped the front and did not remove completely. Any such luck with my Reatta? My pump went out several months ago. I didn't have anyone to help me either. I don't know of any easy shortcuts on dropping the tank or cutting holes to access the pump. I took mine to a garage that had a lift and a big jack, which made easy work of it. In and out in about 2 hours. I'm a pretty good mechanic but some things I don't like doing anymore now that I'm older. Also don't want to take chances with gasoline in my garage if I don't have to. Spend a few bucks and get it done right the first time. Pump is only about $50-60 on Amazon. Buy a Delphi or ACDelco pump. Don't go the cheap route on the pump. . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 23, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 Just now, Ronnie said: My pump went out several months ago. I didn't have anyone to help me either. I don't know of any easy shortcuts on dropping the tank or cutting holes to access the pump. I took mine to a garage that had a lift and a big jack, which made easy work of it. In and out in about 2 hours. I'm a pretty good mechanic but some things I don't like doing anymore now that I'm older. Also don't want to take chances with gasoline in my garage if I don't have to. Spend a few bucks and get it done right the first time. Pump is only about $50-60 on Amazon. Buy a Delphi or ACDelco pump. Don't go the cheap route on the pump. . So I've been pricing them this afternoon. Most are the pieces to rebuild and not a drop in assembly. Some have the wires to redo as well, so would this be the recommended one? With wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 23, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 30 minutes ago, Padgett said: Looks like they got the cover but only one wire. Does the fuel gauge work ? AFAIR the fule pump Only odd part I remember about dropping the tank is the sway bar must be removed also. BTW a fuel pump should show under 10 ohms on the green connector. If a lot then next step is to drop the tank and check there. Just saw the Oklahoma. Well the Oklahoma just means working in the dirt outside 😆... Guess I'll suck it up and dive on in. Lol at 60 you'd think a gal wouldn't have to do that... Anyway, no the fuel gauge does not work. None of the lighted panels work... Gonna get it running then charge into all that techno stuff... 😆 So y'all haven't heard the last of me! 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 This is the pump I purchased. There is no drop in assembly unless you want to pay more. Easy to change and my wiring didn't need modified even though extra parts were included. Amazon.com: Delphi FE0039 Electric Fuel Pump Motor : Automotive 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 Fuel gauge also bad sounds like a wiring problem (pump and sender are together). Think I might start by disconnecting the connector and checking the wiring. What was the ohms reading on the green connector ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 BTW last time I did mine it was on a set of 10 ton jackstands. Not that hard, just hard enough you do not want to do twice so only buy a quality pump. Also I always replace the sock and the filter. (Once replaced the clutch on a Buick GS on an oak tree root. Needs must. But first check the electrics, may not be the pump atol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarrieJT Posted September 24, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted September 24, 2022 I went ahead and ordered a fuel pump. I'll keep checking various wires in the meantime. I basically just have a test lite. I have no idea how to read a multimeter but I guess it's time I learn. Anyway, my light shined bright and that's usually 12 v. I guess. Much more and it blows up, 😆. Gonna be cooler next week so I'll drop that tank and see what happens! Thanks again! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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