2seater Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 2 hours ago, Ronnie said: I can't offer much help with the no show. I've never had that problem. I think there might be a problem with a door switch that's keeping it from working but I'm not sure. Yah, Daves89 had to clue me in about it. Funny thing is the donor car did it when I first got it years ago, then it was put out to pasture, parts were used for the red car from Dave, and after a week of regular use, it started doing the show. I do believe the combination of switches must be correct for the self test. It displays Reatta on the CRT too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 There's a "High/Low" test that you can run through diagnostics. I am in Texas and away from my manuals. But Ronnie the '88 test would be the same as for the '89. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 7, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 In doing some cleaning and conditioning the leather, I think I found the switch you're referring to Ronnie. It's low and on the right side, a black plastic button, sticks out about an inch and maybe 1/2" in diameter. I gave it a few pushes but no show. Looks like there's an outer ring with holes to unscrew and pull it out. However, all the lights come on when I open the door so.......yet another mystery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 That's not the switch. There are two wires in the door. One goes to the latch to tell if the door as ajar, and the other goes to the handle which operates the "show'. On the Black that I sold to 2seater one has to lift the handle and release it quickly which activates the show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 You can check BCM inputs BI05 (Door Jamb) and BI06 (Door Handle) in diagnostics to see if the switches are working properly. The switch I think Dave is referring to is on the inside of the door and is activated by the door handle being lifted. If I remember correctly is should also turn on the odometer reading on the dash when you lift the door handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 8, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 1 hour ago, DAVES89 said: That's not the switch. There are two wires in the door. One goes to the latch to tell if the door as ajar, and the other goes to the handle which operates the "show'. On the Black that I sold to 2seater one has to lift the handle and release it quickly which activates the show. Lift and quickly release the handle...like lift and let it snap back? I'll give that a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 8, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 57 minutes ago, Ronnie said: You can check BCM inputs BI05 (Door Jamb) and BI06 (Door Handle) in diagnostics to see if the switches are working properly. The switch I think Dave is referring to is on the inside of the door and is activated by the door handle being lifted. If I remember correctly is should also turn on the odometer reading on the dash when you lift the door handle. Thanks, I still haven't fully figured out the diagnostic codes but I'll let you all know if I get it to work. However, tomorrow is dedicated to doing the tune up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 39 minutes ago, fun car guy said: Thanks, I still haven't fully figured out the diagnostic codes but I'll let you all know if I get it to work. However, tomorrow is dedicated to doing the tune up. If I were you I would save this for latter and not worry about it until you have the important stuff fixed. As far as I know it's not going to cause a problem that will effect you driving your Reatta. It might possibly effect the alarm system. I don't know for sure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 8, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 Of course, I totally agree. I'm just intrigued by everything these cars can do and discovering them in mine. You see, it's been a long time since I've owned a car that's for me alone, having always focused on providing mere transportation for my family. This time, I finally have something unique and fun for myself to enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 8, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 Okay, I replaced the plugs and wires, seems to run a little better but still not as smooth as it should so apparently there's something else going on. I discovered one AC plug while the others are NGK. I let it run for about 20 minutes and the system screen says nothing is wrong, engine temp is mid range, oil pressure is good and the alternator is charging fine, idling at around 925 rpm. Also, there's a short section of finned tubing underneath, on the drivers side and in front of the radiator that's leaking a pink fluid, could this be a transmission cooler or part of the power steering as It keeps losing fluid. The fluid is full of air to make it appear pink?? As always, any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 (edited) That would be your power steering fluid. Easy fix is to just get a small transmission cooler from your local auto parts store [or Amazon/Rock Auto] and mount in front of the Condenser/radiator. You could also buy a larger one for the transmission fluid and bypass the trans mission fluid tank on the radiator. I went out to the local you pick yard and got the transmission lines and transmission cooler off a Riviera and bypassed mine with a factory set up. I still think you are suffering from low spark and need a replacement ignition module/coil pack. Edited March 9, 2021 by DAVES89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 On 3/7/2021 at 8:49 AM, fun car guy said: Having bought a set of wires from Auto Zone, I notice there are no metal shields on the ends that connect to the plugs like the ones that came with my car, dose that make a difference? On 3/6/2021 at 10:55 PM, Ronnie said: The light show is self test routine that the Instrument Panel and the CRT displays when the driver opens the door, gets in the car and then closes the door. Opening the passenger door will not start the light show. The link below should open in Windows Media Player on your computer and display a video of what the light show looks like in the '88 & '89 models. Not available in later models. Click Here To Watch The Light Show Video Ah mine is a '90 so no show for me lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 9, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 I discovered the metal sleeves which go around the plugs and wires at the back around the exhaust manifold were reusable and I did so. I also found, although not easy, I took the advice to kneel on the radiator with some padding enabled me to get in there and replace them all. Now, it's running better but I still have to find out the rest of the solution, maybe a bad injector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 10, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Ok, yet another mystery solved. The pink fluid leaking under the front of the car turned out to be power steering fluid mixed with stop leak. I traced the leak to the finned pipe on the driver's side that I mentioned which turns out to be the steering rack in a very convenient place, easy to replace. Naturally, I was afraid it was transmission fluid but once again, a simple thing. Next comes bleeding the brakes and thanks to Ronnie, I know how to do it. Engine idling around 950 RPM, oil pressure is 47 PSI. Still a little rough but smooths out at 3,000 RPM so the engine is healthy with no issues, maybe a bad fuel injector. Once again, I want to express my thanks to you all for your support. I should have my Reatta up and road worthy soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 34 minutes ago, fun car guy said: Engine idling around 950 RPM, That is a little high. Recently there have a couple of other people with the same problem with high idle. The problem turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor. You should check it and make sure it is adjusted correctly and in good condition. It might be the source of the engine running rough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted March 10, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Thanks, Ronnie! Approximately where is that located? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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