Doing a tune up on my '89 coupe

[fun car guy]

Okay, as I'm sure you all know, my car starts, doesn't stall but runs rough.  I just pulled the spark plug on #1 cylinder and I gotta say, I've never seen such a bad one.  Black carbon and the electrode is nearly gone, just a thin needle-like sticking out so clearly it's tune-up time.  Now I'm dreading getting the rest out because of the close spaces, some even angling.  I can see the last person who worked on it had the fore-though to grease the coil contacts but DAMN, these plugs don't want to come out!  Any suggestions? WD-40 maybe?

Pleased to see the answer to the problem though.

[fun car guy]

Also, my owner's manual says to gap to .060 of an inch but my new feeler gage goes from .010 to .009 and down so would .006 be correct?  

[Ronnie]

I photo of the spark plug you removed would be helpful.

 

20 minutes ago, fun car guy said:

Also, my owner's manual says to gap to .060 of an inch but my new feeler gage goes from .010 to .009 and down so would .006 be correct?  

No, that would not be correct. Sixty thousandths is not the same as Six thousandths

[fun car guy]

Exactly what I was thinking however, while trying to get the next plug out, I broke the insulator!  These things are really hard to get out!  Thanks Ronnie!

[2seater]

Unlikely WD40 or penetrating oil will do much good since the tapered fit is designed to hold pressure. Make sure you have a good fitting 5/8" deepwell socket with a thinwall design. If too thick, the socket likes to jam in the counterbore in the head around the lower sparkplug. All plugs are angled so getting a straight shot onto each one can be challenging but try to avoid extensions or universal joints on the socket if possible, at least to break it loose. Tapping on a breaker bar back and forth may help initial loosening.

[Ronnie]

If a plug breaks loose, screws out a little, and then stops turning, spray a little penetrating oil or some other lubricating oil around it and then screw back in. Keep repeating that until it screws all the way out without too much difficulty. Don't force it out all at once without reversing or you might bring the threads in the head out with it.

 

 

[fun car guy]

So, although my "89 coupe runs a little better, it's still shaking.  I've eliminated spark and gas so I'm focusing on air thinking it's the Throttle Position Sensor or some mice have set up housekeeping in with the air filter preventing the butterfly from opening enough.  I already found a huge nest in the trunk and had to clean that out since the car sat idle for two years.  Also considering to add Sea Foam fuel system cleaner to the gas.

Still amazed at the lack of rust and looking forward to giving it a good wash/wax.  Having fun and haven't even driven it yet!

[Ronnie]

I suggest you get to know the Reatta Onboard Diagnostics Booklet really well. At first it will be confusing but after you know how to use it you will find that it is your best friend when you are troubleshooting your Reatta. You can find it in the Diagnostics menu at the top of the page.

 

Glad to hear you are having fun with your Reatta. A lot of people get discouraged and move on to something else. Perhaps if you could drive yours some the engine might smooth out. I think Seafoam might be a good idea. It's not going to hurt anything.