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  1. And actually 2 seater the switch he is looking to install were from my tested backstock inventory that you also tested with your "homemade test rig" so it's good. However from his post changing the accumulator is more likely what he needs to do. I have replaced the pressure switch twice in my 333000 miles on the Red. The switches can be hard to remove because they are in tight, which is why I bought the specialty socket [they are thinner wall because of the lack of clearance] years ago for this purpose.
    1 point
  2. When you want to use a generic automotive floor jack, but don't want to mangle your Reatta's sheet metal...
    1 point
  3. Ronnie, after seeing your thread, I purchased the jack pads from Amazon for the two portable car jacks that I have. They're out for delivery today... thanks for the info.
    1 point
  4. I'm going to get an alternator and serpentine belt and have them in the trunk as well. Thinking about a crank sensor also. Don't believe I need a MAF sensor as I replaced that with a new one about 3 months ago.
    1 point
  5. Those two items saved my butt in 2014 in the middle of eastern CO when my '92 Riviera's transmission decided to let go.
    1 point
  6. I still carry my tools and test equipment in the 25 year old car I have now but I don't know what parts to carry at this point. I put the old belt in the toolbox when I installed a new one but that's it so far. Maybe a MAF would be good to have. I guess a cellphone and a AAA card are the best things I can carry that will help me get back home if I break down.
    1 point
  7. Returning from my trip to Arkansas for the recent eclipse. Lucked out with perfect weather and clear skies. Attached are three photos, one is my poor cell phone photo held up to the eyepiece of my small telescope and the others are from a kind lady from Texas who shared pics from her nice camera and lens combo. Bet you can guess which might be which😜
    1 point
  8. That bar installs under the area covered by the oil filter adapter. It bridges over one bolt hole that is difficult to access and consequently you will be one bolt short of the total number of tapped holes in the pan rail. That bar should have a slight kink in it to apply pressure to the missing bolt. You can install a bolt in the open hole and delete the bar if desired. I think they are 1/4” SAE thread
    1 point
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