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I swapped the rubber plug from one to the other and it stopped the leak. I just have to find another or something that will work

I think this is a better pic, of course not in stock. Maybe try Ebay. ACDelco 18020180 Valve - Walmart.com

I pulled this one off of the other proportioning valve. It is made of soft rubber. It has identification markers BAF and 56. I wonder if there is any way to get another one of these.

Like most things, it sometimes makes no sense. People are repairing, or at least trying to repair, Reatta's that should be parted out and others are just the opposite. Seemingly decent cars that deserve some TLC are being scavenged and discarded. Definitely well under $1k for a running parts car, much less than that for a lawn ornament, unless of course it has exactly the stuff you need. Mixing and matching colors, inside and out, or model years with incompatible content really limits the usefulness.

It sounds odd to be missing a part unless it had been worked on recently?? I have no knowledge of the Bosch system and if you trust this shop, what do they recommend?

The wheel bearings were in good shape. I’ve replaced the output seals, axles, sway bar bushings and end links, inner and outer tie rods, and ball joints. All on both sides. Everything went ok besides the ball joints I selected being too tight a fit and rubbing on the passenger side. There was only one AC Delco ball joint left on Rock Auto so lazily I went with the Mevotech ones rather than trying to find and order another one. Thankfully I have another passenger side axle I bought from Jim Finn that I’ll swap this damaged one out with. If anyone has replaced their ball joints, what part did you use?

Went in for an alignment and had Buttita Auto take a look. They say it’s missing a plug and it’s leaking from the side where the line doesn’t connect. Does this sound right?

We'll see. Was out to Gibson's [my local You Pick] and was window shopping looking at other Buicks. Found a pretty nice floor mat with the Buick Tri shield logo on it. It was a light beige so I washed it up real well, allowed it to dry and just sprayed it with the tan spray recipe found in the "How To" section. Think it's going to turn out pretty nice...

I had considered buying a second one to revive, but people are asking way too much for them for the amount of work that needs to be done. If I could get one for $500, that might be doable, but $2000 is a bit much. Then I also see a lot of finished ones up for sale for a really long time, like 8 months or more. When you can't buy and you can't sell, unfortunately that doesn't bode well for doing a profitable project ☹️

Nice 👍 I learned the hard way where the jacking points are by accidentally jacking my floor pan 😁🤦‍♂️

I generally follow whatever recommendations I see from GM, but this time it failed spectacularly. A service bulletin from the '90s said to upgrade the oil pan gasket to their new design from AC Delco which is supposed to be so good that you can even reuse it. The first thing I noticed was that it didn't fit very well. It was floppy, hung over the edge in places, and getting it to stay in place while installing it was like trying to make a fish sandwich while it's still alive. The instructions that come with it and in the bulletin say to torque the bolts to 10, then 16. This seemed to squeeze the gasket out, and deformed my new pan. It started leaking and progressively got worse, so I ordered a new gasket. This time I ordered the Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus. This gasket is a solid piece that doesn't flop around or squeeze out. It comes with 4 handy helpers called SnapUps that you screw into 4 bolt holes, and they hold the gasket and the pan in place in exactly the right spot, freeing up your hands to put the bolts in easily. Once you get a few bolts in, the SnapUps just unscrew and you can put the last 4 bolts in. Incidentally, I tried doing a search for "oil pan" on this site, so as to avoid make a duplicate thread, but the search doesn't seem to be working. It returned zero results, even though there is another thread on that very page about oil pan bolts.

There should be two longer bolts for this bridge

Dave, If you're lucky maybe just replacing the seal behind the clutch will fix it.

Got it out this spring and the A/C compressor looks like it gave out over the winter. there is compressor oil with leak detector all over the bottom of the car as well. I set an appointment with a shop the 2seater uses as they still have R12 equipment. I just have to provide the R12 and oil which I have plenty of.

Went to my first cars and coffee today, meeting up with my friend Kendall and his wife. He has a 1971 Roadrunner and his wife drives a 1972 GTO, both great looking cars. Too cold to hand around so I left after an hour or so. About 100 cars.

And actually 2 seater the switch he is looking to install were from my tested backstock inventory that you also tested with your "homemade test rig" so it's good. However from his post changing the accumulator is more likely what he needs to do. I have replaced the pressure switch twice in my 333000 miles on the Red. The switches can be hard to remove because they are in tight, which is why I bought the specialty socket [they are thinner wall because of the lack of clearance] years ago for this purpose.

I have tested numerous accumulators and pressure switches on my homemade test rig and I have found the pressure switches to be very reliable and robust, unless, they are leaking fluid through the electrical connection. If the connection is wet, replace the switch. The set pressures for warning lights and pump operation have proven to be quite accurate across switches I have tested. If the red brake light is turning on without activating the pump, odds are it is fluid level or likely the parking brake release. The set pressures in the switch for the lights and pump activation are a couple hundred psi, or more, apart.

Today I change my brake accumulator. I tried changing my brake pressure switch but it didn’t want to budge so left it in for now. Now I got brakes and my pump doesn’t turn on every time I step on the brakes. I do see the occasional red brake light when driving but it disappears. I might look into getting a new fluid level sensor.

Yes, but if you are rotating tires, for example, it's nice to be able to jack up one side of the car rather than one end of the car.

I guess most Mustang people would know this, but I just discovered that Mustang GTs like mine have a fiberglass hood and trunk lid. It also has aluminum heads on the engine. Ford did their homework on trying to save weight on a Mustang. I drove my Mustang about 170 miles round trip on Sunday. It's a really good driving car and it is comfortable once you get in it. Getting in and out is about the same as the Reatta. Both are low to the ground which makes it hard on an old man to get in and out of. Most of the roads we were driving on was smooth, but we encountered a section of road where the cracks in the asphalt had been filled in with tar. On that section I could feel the ripples from the tar through the stiff suspension, and it created more road noise than my Reatta would have. The Reatta was a smoother riding car.

Ronnie, after seeing your thread, I purchased the jack pads from Amazon for the two portable car jacks that I have. They're out for delivery today... thanks for the info.

I usually used the front or rear crossmember when using a floor jack. I believe in the FSM it states that the wheel jacking points are meant to be used with the emergency trunk jack.

I'm going to get an alternator and serpentine belt and have them in the trunk as well. Thinking about a crank sensor also. Don't believe I need a MAF sensor as I replaced that with a new one about 3 months ago.

Those two items saved my butt in 2014 in the middle of eastern CO when my '92 Riviera's transmission decided to let go.