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  1. Today
  2. I was able to remove the trunk lock cylinder by removing the bracket under the taillight assembly. The bracket holding the lock cylinder almost fall off inside the bumper if it wasn’t for the are couple wires used to control the lock actuator. The lock cylinder is then retrievable from underneath the bumper by removing a black trim piece. i still think I got right key because I able to lock my glove box and rear trunk door. The only difference is that the lock cylinders at the door and trunk have the connection for the actuator. I was able to somewhat disassemble the lock cylinder and saw that a rectangular piece of metal that protrudes from the cylinder is not going down causing the cylinder not to turn. I will upload picture of it tomorrow. I might take the cylinders to a locksmith to see if he can free it up.
  3. Sounds to me like you're using the wrong key. It would be unusual for all the lock cylinders to be stuck at once. I don't think you can access the trunk lock by removing the taillight. All the key lock does is turn an electrical switch that activates a solenoid on the trunk latch.
  4. Hi, The lock cylinder from the trunk and the doors do not work. I can insert the key but I can’t turn it. To me it seems like the cylinder is stuck. I fixed the issue of my door actuator by spraying silicone lube at the locking mechanism but didn’t fix the lock cylinders. I read somewhere that the actuators engage a solenoid to open the lock itself. Right now I’m removing the taillight assembly to get access to the rear lock cylinder to see what is behind it. Let me know what you think about my issue. Thanks
  5. Yesterday
  6. rpetry

    BCM going bad

    Thanks! They do work correctly and I replaced the photocell with the how to instructions on this site. The dash buttons (light switches, wiper switches and shifter panel) would not light up at night no matter what, and this corrected that issue. The slider also dims my IPC at night as it should. I have a replacement BCM on the way, I will try it out tomorrow when it arrives. I also read there are ground splices underneath the passenger's seat that might need to be recrimped/soldered? I'm thinking it is either something in the CRT unit or the BCM, possibly both, but since the IPC does error out occasionally I am thinking the BCM has a problem.
  7. Anthony

    E042 Help

    I'm with you on some things. When my ECM went bad, I thought about taking it apart to find out what went wrong. I took one look inside and decided against it
  8. Delrin is amazing stuff, and very easy to machine. I don't know if it is suitable for suspension bushings, for example, as it may be too stiff, but I'd love to look into Delrin's physical properties as compared to urethane. As for 3D printing, there are quite a number of different print media. I'll ask around about what might be suitable for suspension bushings. Of course knowing OEM dimensions is difficult for a 30+ year old part that takes a beating.
  9. Last week
  10. DAVES89

    E042 Help

    Anthony please hang around I think we need you. I am a plug and play guy with a lot of known good replacement parts. I just swap in parts starting with what parts are common to fail and go from there. My service manuals are hardly used...
  11. DAVES89

    Door electronics panel

    There are I believe 3 little tabs on the bottom side of that plastic trim piece. carefully pry underneath the trim panel and it should release as it is just a friction grip.
  12. Anthony

    E042 Help

    There is much more information on how the bypass and EST circuits work, and how code E042 is determined in section C4 of the manual under the heading Electronic Spark Timing. What is failed to mention in these two pages is that the ICM's job is to ground the EST circuit until the ECM tells it to stop (after RPM reaches 400). Your test revealed that the ICM is grounding the EST circuit properly, however when you commanded it to stop doing that (by energizing the bypass circuit with a test light), the ICM kept grounding the circuit. It should have released the ground and allowed the ECM to send the EST pulses on that circuit (423). Since you've already checked for continuity on 424 and replaced the connector, the only remaining option is a faulty ICM
  13. Ronnie

    BCM going bad

    I think you are on the right track but there is a few tests you can do... The next time it happens, get the car into a dark space, or cover the photocell on the dash really good so the BCM thinks it is dark outside. Then move the dimmer slider on the headlight switch back and forth and see if the lights on the IPC and CRT dim and brighten as they should when you move the slider. Then move the slider all the way to the right and see if the interior lights come on. The BCM actually controls all of that. That will at least tell you if the BCM is awake and operating.
  14. Ronnie

    E042 Help

    When you do the test for the 140 ohms, from the way I read the instructions, it says to have the ECM disconnected. Although I don't see where it is specified in the instructions, I wonder if you shouldn't have the ECM connected when you test for the 6000 ohm reading. Do you have the ECM disconnected when you are testing for 6000 ohms?
  15. Hi! I have a 1988 Reatta, the CRT screen is crazy. It remains dark most of the time but every once in a while it comes up and works for a few minutes, lets me adjust the air controls and then the screen freezes. Today it came up and did the same thing and then displayed a warning screen that there was an electrical problem that needed to be serviced. It froze there until I turned the ignition off and opened the door. I pulled all the connectors off the back of the CRT screen and cleaned them with electronics cleaner and reseated them. I did the same with the BCM connectors. The screen is a waking up a bit more since then but the dash also displays an electrical problem. I can't ever get to the codes on the CRT screen in time to get them. I am becoming convinced this is a BCM issue going on. Also the IPC has shown an error from time to time where the odometer is and when it does this, the trip meter resets. Am i on the right path?
  16. 2seater

    E042 Help

    I wonder if any readings through the ICM are valid in this diagnostic tree? I do not know the answer. While the Delco ignition is a plug and play replacement for the Magnavox style, some resistance and/or voltage readings may be different. This is only a question. Does a 1991 diagnostic tree have different values? Purely a guess, but I would guess the ICM is bad, especially if used. Swapping to a know good setup would at least narrow the focus. Sorry for the non answer
  17. The good thing is that the 7th generation Rivieras had many mechanical parts that will fit on our Reattas. They made a few more Rivieras than Reattas.
  18. ar_323

    E042 Help

    Hi Y’all, im trying to diagnose a E042 code. I have replace the magnavox coil packs with delco kind along with the 14pin connector that has been soldered to the original wire harness. When going through the diagnose tree. I get stuck on step 4 where ohms on wire BC8 (white) should read over 6000 ohms which it doesn’t. It continues to read around 140 ohms of resistance just like in step 2. Then in step 5 I disconnect the ICM 14pin connector then measure resistance and my multimeter continue to say OL/ off limits. Does that mean I got a faulty ignition module? I checked for continuity of wire 423 and 424 from the ECM and ICM Connector and they were good. I also found that wire terminal 121 (white) has continuity with terminal BC8. any suggestions from you guys?
  19. You guys may be right in your assessments, but sure is distressing.
  20. rpetry

    Warning lights issue

    Thanks. I did pull it back out yesterday and cleaned the connectors, still the same result. On my old IPC. The warning lights work but no display. Between the the two of them, I have a good IPC. I guess I'll try to get someone to repair them.
  21. Agreed, Ronnie. I have started to amass replacement parts that are hard to find. Though I have not yet procured a front windshield, I have been thinking about having windshield film installed as a precaution. I am good on struts (front and rear new spares) are on the shelf. Caliper rebuild kits. I am wondering if the various bushings could be 3D printed, or machined from a solid block of the appropriate material. The sensitivity of the electronics also causes worry. Regardless, the certainty is parts will be more scarce, and more expensive.
  22. Here is an analogy to this topic. Just like a human being, the Reatta's lifetime will eventually cease to exist. That is, just as a human being will need medical help during its lifetime, the Reatta needs repair. Some people pass away, and others live another day. Along the way there are ebbs and flows with respect to the frequency of events, but assuredly they increase with the passage of time. So, in the case of the Reatta, at 30+ years of age it has rounded 3rd base heading home. Along the way many Reattas have disappeared and were designated as donors so others may live on. This is an inverse relationship........fewer Reattas on the road but more Reatta spare parts. Coupled with part availability from other GM models, perhaps spare part purchases should be closely scrutinized as there will always be aging Reattas entering junk yards or being parted out. The future cost of these spare parts is another discussion as predatory pricing becomes an issue rather than supply vs demand.
  23. If you look at Reatta Facebook groups you can see a lot of the threads are about someone parting out a Reatta. I guess the reason for that is parts are getting so expensive for a Reatta, both new and used, that people don't want to spend the money to fix them. What does that tell us? Are Reattas parts, and paying a mechanic to keep them up, getting so expensive that the threshold where a Reatta should be parted our versus trying to fix them up getting lower? Or does it mean that less people are interested in them and figure there is more money to be made parting out an old beater than trying to sell them? The way it's going the only people who are going to own a decent Reatta are people that can afford to pay big money for a low mileage Reatta to admire, brag about, and drive occasionally. The days of buying a Reatta as a cheap car seems to be over. Yeah, you can still buy a higher mileage Reatta at a good price, but after you spend the money on parts and labor to get it in good condition, your cheap driver isn't going to be so cheap. Especially if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work. My advice to Reatta owners who plan to keep them, is buy up all the parts that you can afford right now that are on Facebook and hang on to them because the price of those parts is going to get much more expensive and harder to find as the number of Reattas dwindles because of people parting them out.
  24. One-of-a-kind 1990 Buick Reatta 2-door Coupe (Claret Red exterior with Red Leather interior). Asking $5000 or best offer. Sold by the original owner, who bought it new in 1990. Extremely low mileage at 101,000. Owner has all service records, original manuals, and 2 key fobs. All parts original except JVC sound system added after-market. Available in San Jose, California. All factory specs are here // https://www.edmunds.com/buick/reatta/1990/features-specs Engine //3.8 liter 3800 v6 with sequential fuel injection (SFI) Transmission // Automatic with overdrive, 4 speed Exterior // Claret Red Metallic Interior // Trim 999 - reclining bucket seats in red leather Known issues: Passenger side-mirror needs repair Trunk latch doesn’t lock Air conditioner doesn’t work Recently has had intermittent stalling issues at red lights. Always restarts. Cosmetic issues (e.g. tear in driver’s seat leather visible in photo) More photos available here // https://photos.app.goo.gl/hcqENikZSEE6tEXs7 Contact owner // pastramidave [at] gmail [dot] com
  25. DAVES89

    Door electronics panel

    The top plastic trim panel has to come off before you can get to the two sheet metal screws to tighten the panel back down back down.
  26. My drivers side electronic panel has popped out of the arm rest...what is the secret to reseating the panel??
  27. Ronnie

    Warning lights issue

    If you push the test button and the warning lights don't light up, the most likely cause is you have got another bad IPC. It could possible be a ground problem. I would try unplugging the connection on the back of the IPC, clean the connectors, and reinstall.
  28. I changed out my IPC with another one as the old was was dark all the time. Now with the new one, the flourescent part with the speedometer, odometer and fuel guage works fine. But the warning light row does not work, where the check engine light, oil, temp, and ABS and brake lights are. They are good bulbs, i tested them all. What could cause this issue? I've tried the test button, it tests the flourescent display but no warning lights test.
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