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We are not experts or professionals in any field. Any advice or information found on this website should not be considered as 100% accurate and is provided on an AS-IS basis. Use any information you find here at your own risk. Click here and carefully read and agree to the DISCLAIMER statements before using any information found on this website. Door Panel Removal 1991
Written by AACA Reatta Forum Members Thursday, 11 June 2009 After working on my '91 door panels, here is some information which may be of help to you.
The picture above shows the driver's side door less panel, foam sound deadener, and plastic. Near the lower left corner are (2) capscrews which hold the back window guide. I replaced these with longer metric screws and added a 9/16" spacer to move the bottom of this guide outward; this was done because the window moved inward as it lowered, with added friction against the inside window weatherstripping at the top/back. This friction slowed down the lowering/raising of the window, particularly on the passenger side. Toward the front, partly hidden, are (4) rivnuts plus (1) rivnut near the speaker opening. These are aluminum bodied, with hardened steel pins inside. To remove then, I used a drift punch to push out the pins and then drilled the aluminum body with a 1/4 bit. In replacing the window regulator, I used 1/4-20 capscrews, nuts, lock washers in (3) places. In (2) of the (4) locations in the rectangular pattern I used these spring steel clip-on "U" shaped nuts as the nut locations were harder to get at. There are (7) locations on the door where the rubber grommets (retainers) are fitted, with (2) grommets on the inside panel itself. The picture below shows the door panel inside with squares of masking tape locating the retainer positions. ![]()
Below is the backside view of the door panel. ![]()
The picture below shows the plastic "bolt", part #20430421, .43, Gmpartsdirect ~.65, Retainer #22573692 at $.73 ea. Also shown is my extracting tool, a dandelion puller. If you look closely at the left retainer, and old one, you can see it is cracked - NG. After installing the new retainers, I used a 13/64 drill to enlarge the retainer hole so that a reasonable amount of force was needed to push the plastic "bolt" in and out. Of the (9) retainers per door, about (5) were NG. ![]()
Regards, Jack C. (jcc3inc) Last Updated Monday, 24 May 2010
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