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1990 Reatta: Reading ABS Codes from ALDL A+H Jump


BRD

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Have a solid ABS amber warning light on my 1990 Reatta and have some questions for reading codes, as my flash sequence does not exactly align with existing guidance in forum.  Troubleshooting with ALDL A+H jump via posted forum instructions: http://reattaowner.com/roj/reattaowner.com-forum/169.html

 

Recorded four different code sequences with my phone video but not sure how to interpret the flashes, as they slightly differ from the posted guidance.  Specifically, there is no second “pause” before the amber ABS light remains solid. 

 

Here is what I got when jumping A+H and then turning key to “On” position:

 

1st A+H Connection:  9 distinct flashes + pause + 10 flashes.  But on the final (10th) flash, the light remains on.  There is no distinct pause between the final flash and the ABS light remaining solid, as is outlined in the existing forum instructions (link above).  So does that final flash count?

 

2nd  A+H Connection:  3 flashes + pause + 4 flashes and the light remains solid with no final pause (so I think this is code 34)

 

3rd A+H Connection:  4 flashes + pause + 6 flashes and the light remains solid with no final pause (code 46?)

 

4th A+H Connection:  7 flashes + pause + 7 flashes and the light remains solid with no final pause (code 77?)

 

5th A+H Connection:  Light remains solid with no flashes or pauses (no additional codes to provide?)

 

Have some questions and greatly appreciate your insight:

 

1.  Do I consider the final flash as part of the code?  (i.e. are my codes 9+10; 34, 46, and 77?  Or are they 99; 33; 45, and 76 – with the final flash not counted?)

 

2.  What is the first A+H connection to be interpreted as?  I do not see “99” or “9+10” in the FSM or forum guidance?  Is the first connection unique and always display something like this?

 

Thanks!

 

BRD

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1 hour ago, BRD said:

2nd  A+H Connection:  3 flashes + pause + 4 flashes and the light remains solid with no final pause (so I think this is code 34)

 

3rd A+H Connection:  4 flashes + pause + 6 flashes and the light remains solid with no final pause (code 46?)

 

4th A+H Connection:  7 flashes + pause + 7 flashes and the light remains solid with no final pause (code 77?)

 

5th A+H Connection:  Light remains solid with no flashes or pauses (no additional codes to provide?)

All these codes make sense. They are all wheel sensor codes and that is what I would concentrate on getting fixed.  I've never had problems with my wheels sensors but I have read many times that when you fix one bad wheel sensor the other codes will go away.  So that is where I would start. If you have not done so you should repeat the test again after driving the car to see if you get the same results.  The 99 has to be a glitch. Dave may have more to add. He has dealt with the ABS wheel sensors a lot.

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I don't read codes anymore. I just go under the hood with my ohms meter and read the two front plugs. The one that doesn't "read" is bad and gets replaced. Sometimes you don't even need the meter because a visual inspection of the lead will indicate which lead is bad. If the rubber has cracks or is partially missing that is usually the one that is bad. If it has those issues and they are not addressed then they will go bad.

 Back to reading the codes. With the ABS leads "Right" is "Left" and "Left" is "Right". For all other things GM sitting in the drivers seat left is left and right is right. With the ABS when you are facing the engine right is right and left is left which makes what I said earlier clear...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Ronnie for the wheel sensor information and Daves89 for the troubleshooting tips.  I was finally able to get under my car with small portable ramps.  Trying to visually inspect the wheel sensors but do not know what I am looking for.  I can't tell from FSM (5E-2/3), as it does not have much information or illustrations that I can find on wheel sensors.  Have attached photos of what I think are each wheel sensor.  Are these the sensors?  Do I need to take apart and inspect inside?  I don’t know exactly what I am looking for in terms of corrosion, structural integrity, etc.  Do these look in decent condition? 

 

Daves89, you mentioned “reading the front two plugs with an ohm meter.”  Can you please tell where to connect meter (plugs), what multi-meter setting, and what I am looking for in a reading?  Now that I have access to underside of car, can I just connect to/around the sensors for a reading?  Does the electrical system and/or engine need to be on, etc.?

 

Thanks!

 

BRD

Driver Front 001.jpg

Driver Rear 001.jpg

Passenger Front 001.jpg

Passenger Rear 001.jpg

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You found the brake fluid line which allows the brake fluid to flow back and forth to open/close the calipers for your braking action. The other leads that are at the hub area are your sensor leads. For the front leads they actually come through the inner fender [look for the rubber grommet] and follow it down. At this part all we are doing is looking at the lead for cracks or breaks in the lead. The rear ABS lead has a connection further forward then the rear hub. It is very unlikely that this is your failure. 

 Unless you want to replace the sensor lead do not attempt to remove the lead from the hub, unless of course they have failed and you have replacements.

 If you go to Youtube you will find a short clip I posted there in regards to the location of finding and disconnecting of the leads under the hood. Look for either "Daves89 or Reatta ABS sensor leads and you should find it.

 Set the ohm meter to read 1000 ohms. You will be looking for anywhere between 800-1400 ohms. Actually in my opinion if it reads at all it should be good. 

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Was able to find the front leads.  Have attached some photos of one of them.  I noticed some cracks in the outer lead shielding.  One section looks almost frayed.  Can't figure out where to actually put the leads of the multi-meter or the exact settings.  Are they correct in the attached photo?  The indicator was always "1" and no variation. 

 

Thanks!

 

BRD   

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Here is another photo of one of my front leads at one of the top connections.  It looks somewhat frayed or maybe disconnected?  I have no idea what these are "normally" supposed to look like.

IMG_8822 (1)A.jpg

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Look at Dave's video. You put the leads from you meter in the terminals of the connector going to the wheel sensor that Dave unplugged in the video. The lead in the photo above look like it's shot from what I can see.

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Daves89 and Ronnie:  Thanks for the information and assistance.  I was able to test the leads as per the video and photo.  As you suspected, no resistance measured.  I read some of your comments from a few years ago regarding these parts.  Any new information or best practices for finding new or refurbished replacements leads/sensors for all four wheels?  Even if I am able to locate/afford these parts, is this something I could take to a local Midas, etc. and they can routinely replace?  I am willing to try myself if there isn’t an extreme degree of specialization required to route and secure the leads.  But if so, then don’t want to take unnecessary risks, as I am obviously not a brake expert. 

 

Thanks!

 

BRD

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There are no new wheel sensors being produced. A good used one is your best option but they are getting hard to find. A place like Midas should be able to replace it for you. If you have a good set of tools you should be able to replace it yourself if everything goes smoothly but a lot of times the part of the wheel sensor that extends into the hub can be hard to get out due to corrosion. You might be better off taking it to a mechanic who would know how to deal with that situation to save yourself a lot of headaches.

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Ronnie: Thanks for the response and insight.  Will try taking to a local repair shop (e.g. Midas, etc.)  As you mentioned, seems like hardest challenge will be finding new or replacement leads.  Already checked with a local PepBoys and they could not find anything (even similar) in their system.   In the interim, taking my car to Midas for break pads replacement and break fluid flush/replacement.  Going to also try to get them to place the clips you recommended (and I purchased) to stop the rattle, if they are willing.  Anything special I need to tell them about servicing a Reatta breaks/fluid replacement?  Thanks, BRD

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