Rear taillight cleaner

[Dan Alesi]

My rear taillight cover was oxidized. Looking for cleaners, I found NOVUS 3 on amazon for $28.00. Tried it and it worked great. It's a 3 step process using 3 various cleaners from heavy  to very fine . 

[Ronnie]

Thanks for letting us know. I've never used that brand but each time I've done it it required a lot of elbow grease make it look good. Was that product the same way.

[DAVES89]

I varnished mine with a Gloss "Spar" varnish using 1000 and then 2000 wet/dry sandpaper and a foam brush. Turns out great and no elbow grease after the sanding and varnishing.

 Maybe Ronnie can bring it from "over there" Dashmaster did a great write up endorsing how it was done...

Edited September 6, 2020 by DAVES89

[Ronnie]

On 9/2/2020 at 7:36 PM, DAVES89 said:

 Maybe Ronnie can bring it from "over there" Dashmaster did a great write up endorsing how it was done.

Sorry, I looked into it and I don't have the ability to do that.

[Tallicat]

I used McGuire's Headlight Lens cleaner and a buffer. Looks brand new, that stuff is magic.

[ship]

10 minutes ago, Tallicat said:

I used McGuire's Headlight Lens cleaner and a buffer. Looks brand new, that stuff is magic.

I've also used this product and found it to work well.

[89 MAUI]

I was using a mcquires oxidation cleaner on my trunk with a buffer then decided to go over the tail light lense and lightly went over the center with the BUICK letters and it gave me a smooth-reflective shine.  I then wiped-on a UV protection from an old left-over headlight cleaning kit.  I am quite pleased with the results and the UV protector should help keep the lense in a clean condition from dulling from the sun.

Woody

89 MAUI

[Frogware]

I have used the Novus product quite a few years ago before many other products came out like Mother's & Meguiar's. That being said the only difference in results would be the price since Novus was a more professional based for the manufacturing industry. I still have some Novus (Fine) left from a place I worked at back in the 90's, but if I needed to polish something up nowadays I would use the ScratchX from Meguiar's much cheaper and works great for removing that yellowing oxidation.

Edited September 6, 2020 by Frogware

[Ronnie]

If the taillight is really cloudy I've had good results with wet sanding with 800 grit sand paper and working my way down to 1500 grit. Then I polish with Meguiar's PlastX . My way is a lot of work.

[ship]

22 hours ago, Ronnie said:

If the taillight is really cloudy I've had good results with wet sanding with 800 grit sand paper and working my way down to 1500 grit. Then I polish with Meguiar's PlastX . My way is a lot of work.

Now that's dedication...sounds like a full day's work!  Although, I admit it does sound like a very good work bench project.  I have an extra tail light assembly that I will throw on my work bench and give it a try.  Do auto parts stores carry these sanding grits for me to purchase?  

Edited September 7, 2020 by ship
spelling

[Ronnie]

I go to a local auto parts store that sells paint when I need sandpaper. You want to get "wet or dry" sandpaper so you can use water and keep the taillight wet while sanding. I like the 3M brand. Not a good job to do on a workbench. I put mine on sawhorses and let the water from sanding drip off onto the floor so it's easy to clean up. It would really make a mess on your workbench. First pass with 800 grit will make the taillight look dull but as you get down to the 1500 grit it will start to look much better. I go from 800 to 1200 to 1500 grit. Then when you buff it with the PlastX it will look clear.  I don't know that this is the easiest way but that is the way I did it last time.

 

[DAVES89]

I went "over there" and read how I redid my taillight on the Red.

 I didn't even take the taillight off the first car I did and it was the "Red" the first Reatta I bought and now have  for 13 years. Here's what I did;

 Buy 1 quart of Gloss Spar varnish and two 2" foam brushes [May not need the second foam brush

 Tape off the letters using painters "Blue" tape or "Frog" tape. 

 Sand with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper

 Wipe down with a wet rag

 Sand with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper

 Wipe down with a wet rag to clean the taillight. 

 Check the tape on the letters to make sure they are in good shape, otherwise remove and apply again

 Blow the taillight with air to be sure everything is dry and the dust is removed

 Tape off the areas you DON'T want the varnish applied including the reflectors on the bottom of the taillight

 Stir the varnish [do not shake] then apply the varnish with a foam brush. Do not over brush, let the varnish level itself off. If you miss a spot refill the brush and hit the skipped area. After you have applied the varnish [shouldn't take more then 5-10 minutes] with a brush with varnish in it do a quick light sweep from end to end to make sure you pick up any "sags" in the already applied varnish.

 Allow to dry overnight. That's it.

 You will not believe the "pop" you get from the amber tint that is in every quart of Spar varnish. The definition seen in the reflection is almost unbelievable.

 Never treat your taillight different with any aftermarket specialty item. Just wash the taillight just as you wash your car. Wipe with a towel as you wipe down your car. Will last for years with minimal care. 

 

[ship]

Thanks Ronnie and Dave...two approaches to consider trying...again, thanks.