Jump to content
Studebaker

How to Check CRT Codes to solve ABS Light & Electrical Warnings

Recommended Posts

23 minutes ago, Studebaker said:

Ronnie....Excellent info.....I would have thought it was the passenger front wheel sensor.....thanks for alerting me that it is actually the drivers front sensor.  I will go look for your youtube video.  Huge thanks.

Thanks for the credit but I'm sure you meant Dave. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave89.....Thanks....I found your video of pulling apart the sensor plug and testing.......I plan to test both front sensors today.

 

By the way, I went to Rock Auto, and they do not sell these sensors or the Accumulator.  What is your preferred sources for Reatta items?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sometimes have reconditioned ones but presently am out. I believe Jim Finn has them available.

reattas60@gmail.com

Edited by DAVES89

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is from a post back August:

 

"I believe the Wabco STC2784 is a viable replacement but I don't have a list of vendors. A quick search showed it was available on Amazon but not the best price. I am using the Hydac unit from Spinning Wheels and have tested a few others, but have not had the opportunity for the Wabco unit."

 

If you look at Amazon you will even find comments from at least one Reatta owner in the reviews. It is larger capacity, like .33liter vs the standard .25liter but that is a good thing. It does require the strut brace be shimmed up on the drivers side to clear. Expect the fluid level to drop further than normal when the ball is full due to larger capacity, approx. 5/8" iirc. 

 

Nice photos by the way and the answers above are spot on.

Edited by 2seater

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on Testing the Front Wheel Sensors:

 

Here is a pic of the drivers-side front wheel sensor connection point:  It was behind the freon hose and I pulled it to the front.....this wire has a white hold-down fastener on the cable.

 

STA75517.thumb.JPG.97d64ee6dbb2e003f850a8142fd5ab56.JPG

 

I squeezed like a mad-man on that connector, but it still would not allow the little tab to disengage.....so I sprayed a bit of penetration oil into the connector.  Then I used a super small screwdriver to assist that little tab as I squeezed the sides, and she came right off.  These appear to be the original sensors, and probably never unplugged in 30 years.

 

STA75516.thumb.JPG.816532082662707f30ad5cbbab1a4890.JPG

 

Those murphey gremlins have been following me around as I have been working on this Riatta.......first they sneaked a faulty fuse in my test wire that I used to get these codes.  Today they sucked the juice out of my multimeter and were giving me bogus readings.  After putting a new battery in the Fluke, I got consistent test readings:

 

Driver's Side:  1065

Pssgr Side:  1083

 

Following Ronnie's "Wheel Sensor Troubleshooting" guide directions, I see that these readings are well within the acceptable range of 800 - 1400 ohms.

 

STA75521.thumb.JPG.ed011ba5074d775db4fb573b459fc2b5.JPG

 

I now need to spin the front tires and check the voltage generated as he illustrates in his article.  Since these ohm numbers look good, I am going to predict that the spin voltage will be good.  Will post after I do the test.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the Wheel Spin Voltage Test done.  I had to put a little bend on the tip of a small copper wire and then ram into the wheel sensor connector so it would not just slide back out.  Then I had to jerry-rig some wire alligator connector leads to the multimeter leads......sloppy, but it worked. 

 

STA75528.thumb.JPG.16a7f8bea7856366b17c80d79ddf13b9.JPG

 

STA75531.thumb.JPG.52eeab7cc2cdc80173e898de55389950.JPG

 

I then placed the multimeter on a bucket beside the front tire that I was going to spin.  Put the car in Neutral, and then spun the heck out of the front tires......but since they are dragging the entire axle/transmission, it was hard to get them to go but so fast.  So, I only got voltage outputs of .20 - .25 max on my spins.  I think this is probably normal for the front tires, unless you unhooked the drive shafts to get a faster spin, or if you had the arm of the Nat's pitcher Strawsburg and could probably get a good 90mph out of those front wheels.......in which case you probably would fry the ABS computer (which would make my shop gremlins snicker and laugh).

 

So, what is the call from the Reatta experts on this one?  Oooops.....I just saw that I have more tests to do before we can make a call on these sensors. 

................"I'll be back....."

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Question for Ronnie:

 

Under Tab 3 of your How-To article "Wheel Sensor Troubleshooting", you are talking about testing the sensor's function.  Am I supposed to remove the front tire to access the business end of the wheel sensor?  Do I actually need to remove the lower end of the sensor from the inner mounting spot in order to do this test?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had those Reatta gremlins attack my home computer, which was running Windows 8......forced to buy a new one running the crazy Windows 10......and I am hating life now trying to figure out this overly complex Windows 10 bull.  This has put me behind for a couple days, and I will try to reply to any unanswered messages.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will like Win 10 after you get use to it.  I've had all versions of Windows since Win 95 and Win 10 is the most stable version by far. No crashes or slowing down like older versions

 

Win 10 is like moving into a new house.  You know everything is there but it just takes a while to figure out where it is. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/11/2019 at 4:59 PM, Studebaker said:

Question for Ronnie:

 

Under Tab 3 of your How-To article "Wheel Sensor Troubleshooting", you are talking about testing the sensor's function.  Am I supposed to remove the front tire to access the business end of the wheel sensor?  Do I actually need to remove the lower end of the sensor from the inner mounting spot in order to do this test?

I apologize for not seeing this until now.  Jim Finn (who has owned dozens of Reattas) wrote that part of the article. I believe you have to remove the "barrel" of the sensor from the knuckle in order to do that test.  It sounds like it is a basic test just to see if the sensor is capable of responding to the the teeth of the  reluctor ring passing by it. Seems to me that spinning the wheel should do the same thing but Jim knows more about Reattas than I do.  Perhaps it is a test he thinks should be done once you have the sensor off before moving on to checking the leads for damage.???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

You will like Win 10 after you get use to it.  I've had all versions of Windows since Win 95 and Win 10 is the most stable version by far. No crashes or slowing down like older versions

 

Win 10 is like moving into a new house.  You know everything is there but it just takes a while to figure out where it is. 🙂

Funny you say its like moving in a new house......I have been fussing to a friend about this terrible operating system, and I described it as "like someone pulled my home up off its foundation, shook the living hell out of it, sucked out all the furniture, appliances, food, weapons, motorcycles, cars, and tossed it all into a huge mixing bowl, mixed thoroughly, and then pumped it all back in randomly thru busted windows, doors, the septic system, etc...….and I walk in and its like a war zone, nothing where its supposed to be".    That is Windows 10 in a nutshell.

 

By the way, my very first visit to YouTube was to watch a video on how to "delete that liberal/commie Bing search engine", and as soon as I started watching how to trash Bing and get Firefox, I was hacked by some virus with alarm bells going off saying my pc was taken over by a hacker, and I could not escape that window, and warned not to try.   I had to pull the power and shut her down.  Not safe in my opinion......I would pay top dollar for a new pc with the good ole Windows 7 or 8 on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ronnie....about testing the wheel sensor....thanks for your input.  I thought he meant I would have to remove it at the wheel, so that's what I will do.  I want to remove all the wheels anyway so I can go through the brakes real good anyway.  I was reading the big shop manual last night, and they have even more suggestions regarding the wheel sensor/cable.....so I will check the cables thoroughly and do all those tests just to be sure all is good.  Will post more pics just to give everyone some color and images of what is going on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ABS Update:

 

Had some time to check more into the possible cause of my ABS issue.  Got the ole 89 up and all 4 wheels off:

 

STA75578.thumb.JPG.bef4a65d112ade44bf1e8c112a114c26.JPG

 

I found that both front wheel sensors had electrical cables that were cracked, and some of the metal shielding was exposed.  I was going to clean with a solvent, and then try wrapping with heat shrink tubing and electrical tape.  Just lightly cleaning the bad areas caused the brittle rubber shielding to fall off in little pieces:

 

Front driver's side:

 

STA75671.thumb.JPG.b3f9f5338e917d98e6d90b5ab724a2fb.JPG

 

Rubber shielding is falling off where it merges into the Sensor body:

STA75661.thumb.JPG.8fc59c7e86a839d7e16f29b78317a19f.JPG

 

And cracked and falling off further up:

 

STA75655.thumb.JPG.54e150ef7655a68df91b3c1d44ab8e19.JPG

 

Same situation on the passenger front Sensor Cable:

 

STA75679.thumb.JPG.e3457030e29999c70f8a05ed9504b772.JPG

 

Both Rear Wheel Sensor cables were fine......no cracks or flaking of outer rubber jacket:

STA75575.thumb.JPG.e1cbcd16d8093f204dd224bc5c492315.JPG

 

Does anyone know if the numbers stamped into the sensor actually give a production date of the sensor? 

STA75660.thumb.JPG.5e2d1221e1c46d0b8d5364d000ffd98f.JPG

 

Has anyone had the sensor cables on their Reatta's degrade, crack, and flake off like in these pictures?  If further tests show that the sensors are operating within specifications, will a good heat shrink and tape work for another couple years?  I found the Wheel Sensor body on Rock Auto for about $75, but it does not include the cable.  Does anyone have a source for replacement cables?

 

 

STA75655.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cracked cables isn't unusual. Jim Finn, reattas60@gmail.com, has reconditioned ABS sensors available.  He is a good guy to buy from.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ronnie......Thanks for that info.....I will contact Jim after testing these, and hopefully order necessary parts from him.

 

Theres that shark mouth:

 

STA75620.thumb.JPG.043feb9df2baf58b3cce765b477dd9d1.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sometimes have reconditioned ones but presently am out. I believe Jim Finn has them available and yes he is a good supplier. You most likely will not get those heads out of the hub intact so for all intents and purposes those leads are junk. 

 If you think the leads are still good and a new coating will keep your leads in good repair, you can try this;

  Take a pliers and "pinch" off all the bad lead rubber. Then get some 1/4" hard vinyl tubing [like what you use for the refrigerator ice maker supply line [only 1/4'] and slice it lengthwise. Put the vinyl tubing on the leads between the rubber boots and wrap the tubing with electrical tape in both directions [up and down] the tubing so moisture can't wick in. Be sure to "force the tubing under the rubber boots for a little better moisture protection. This way could get you a couple of years especially if you don't drive the car much in the winter. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave.......Thanks for that tip on repairing the sensor cables.......that sounds far better than my idea of using shrink wrap with tape on top.  I will fetch some 1/4" vinyl tubing and give it a try.  Yep, I do not plan on driving this car in the rain or in winter weather.....she will be kept high and dry, and this repair should last a good amount of time.

 

I did notice alot of grime/dirt/flotsome packed around the speed sensor wheel teeth......so I will give them a thorough cleaning which may also help improve the signal going to the ABS  computer......between that and flushing the brake system and bleeding, maybe I will solve the ABS issue.   (Still not sure if the Accumulator/Black Ball is working within specs.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave,

One of the pics above shows in detail where the sensor wire goes into the actual speed sensor.  Are these designed with two pins that "plug-in", so I can actually pull on the wire and it should come unplugged with no problem?  If so, I could inspect to make sure the internal metal pins are clean and not corroded, and also get the vinyl tubing placed under the sensor a bit easier.  Might consider some silicone sealant around that connection edge, on top of the new vinyl tube.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lead is molded into the head [at the wheel hub] and cannot be removed from the head. The only point to unplug the lead is in the engine compartment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave.....OK, thanks for the info.  I bought a roll of the 1/4" vinyl tubing yesterday, so would like to "wrap up" this part of the project.  Lowes had a 20' roll for only about $6....not as stiff as the poly tubing, but if the wall thickness was a hair less, it would be more pliable.  There was another type of 1/4" tubing that was super pliable and yellow in color (forgot the name), but would probably degrade fast over time. 

 

I had seen pics of other Buick sensors, and the sensor at the head (wheel hub), and alot just plugged in at the sensor (which would probably allow more moisture in to corrode the connection tips), so I was thinking that maybe the Reatta was also a "plug n play" type.  Now I know not to pull on it and destroy it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...