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DAVES89

What did you do to your Reatta today?

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On 11/4/2019 at 10:42 AM, 2seater said:

10-4 on the different tensioners and it mostly comes down to how it attaches to the block. I don't know of any way to know ahead of time which one to buy. I continue to recommend the O.E. Morse brand timing chain (about $65) as having the smoothest top surface alignment so it doesn't wear out the tensioner prematurely. I am not a fan of the later style replacement tensioner which looks like it should have additional contact area to lighten the contact load but it is mostly illusion and the hollow design of the shoe doesn't allow for much wear before breaking through. Almost impossible to find the original style so make the best of the available one. JMHO

How about an Edelbrock #7429 set? Or a Sealed Power #KT3-381SA set?

Edited by DAVES89

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I couldn't find the Edelbrock version and it is not perfect to judge from a photo, but the Sealed Power set looks just like a Cloyes and others. I have changed my computer a couple times and I cannot find my comparison photos to illustrate although I think I have posted them long ago. The key, in my mind, is the vertical alignment of the stack of six plates that make up the chain. If you look closely at the expanded view of the photo of the Rock Auto Sealed Power set the side link plates are not flush with the center plates which reduces the surface area that rides on the tensioner by 1/3. 

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11 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

How about an Edelbrock #7429 set?

Could you have possibly made a typo and it's a #7829 set?

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22 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Could you have possibly made a typo and it's a #7829 set?

I am pretty sure that will not fit a "C" 3800. The cam sprocket is wrong style and being a true roller chain it is too wide and wouldn't be tensioner compatible.

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44 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Could you have possibly made a typo and it's a #7829 set?

It was a typo and should be #7829 which after reading 2seaters post won't work.

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8 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

It was a typo and should be #7829 which after reading 2seaters post won't work.

What about a Perfect Circle #9-3063?

I'm looking at E bay.

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I went to a GM parts site and looked up the camshaft sprocket and chain. These parts are discontinued. 

 Cam Sprocket #24500030

 Timing Chain #25530114

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29 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

What about a Perfect Circle #9-3063?

I'm looking at E bay.

Don't think so. The photo I see on eBay for one of them doesn't have a hole to insert a cam sensor.

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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:

Could you have possibly made a typo and it's a #7829 set?

It was a typo and should be #7829 which after reading 2seaters post won't work.

 However I just got off the phone with a GM dealer in Ohio. He has 2 gears, 2 dampers and 3 chains and I bought them all. Hal, if you want a chain, I'll sell you one as I bought the last one with you in mind.

 Total for all is $200.00 even...

KNW Motors in Iowa has dampers phone #641-3943086

Edited by DAVES89

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Thanks Dave. I was out for lunch and it went longer than anticipated. As I mentioned on the phone, whatever you don't want or use will be welcome if they are the GM parts. Hard to find as you found out and I truly did not realize they were discontinued. If I ever get to the teardown of the '95 S/C engine I will be very curious to see what the timing chain system looks like. Much appreciate the thoughtfulness. I will continue to search for pics of the timing set with old and new style damper.

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You are welcome Hal. As you know I have a pretty new engine [now about 30,000 miles] in the Red so I shouldn't need a set for it, but the 'vert and the '88 Black/Tan will need one. I bought 2 complete sets [chain, sprocket, and damper] for these two which leaves me the extra chain for you. I'll also give you the chain,damper and sprocket off the '88 Black and the 'vert if you want them as I'll never need the damper or sprocket again. The chains will probably not be worth anything but it's all yours.

 So I need a timing cover gasket set and oil pan gasket set. Anything else?

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On 12/10/2019 at 3:01 PM, Ronnie said:

My '99 Blazer has been doing that for two years or more.  Most of the time the light goes off on it's own while I'm driving it. Sometimes it requires a restart to get it to go off. I'm in the same boat as you when it comes to the Blazer.  It is still a good vehicle but it being a '99 model I don't jump right on every little thing that goes wrong. If the light would come on and stay on I would try to fix it.

 

You are lucky that your daughter would be willing to drive a Reatta.  My daughter loves going places in my Reatta and we have spent countless hours in it going through the mountains and at car shows. Not once have I been able to convince her to drive it.  She never gives a reason why other than saying that she's happy with me driving. She won't drive any of my other cars either.

The anti brake light has not come on for two days and about 200 miles. So I have an intermittent issue, but am not going to worry about it. My driving miles for the balance of the winter will be way down so I think I can make it okay. 

 On another front I asked my friends if they were surprised that I had an OEM muffler [actually 2] in back stock and they said no, they would be surprised if I didn't have a back up...

 However when I part this car out I am replacing the muffler [Camaro] on the '88 Black with this newly installed muffler as the exhaust is louder then I like.

Edited by DAVES89
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9 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

Anything else?

Cam sensor magnet. 

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9 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Cam sensor magnet. 

I've got two sitting on the "projects" portion of my work bench...

Edited by DAVES89
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I am reposting these from the other site and many years ago. This is the best I could find to illustrate the different chain damper styles and my experience with them. The totally worn out new style damper was run approx. 38k miles on a new Cloyes brand chain. The other pic is of the old style damper with 92k miles on it from a different engine but installed in place of the new style just for illustration. The old style damper was from my original engine which also used a Morse brand chain which has a smoother top surface. As can be seen, there is significant wear on the old damper but is no where near worn out with far more than double the miles. Three observations of the two different dampers: one, not scientific but a spring loaded center punch indicated the new style damper is softer material than the original, two, the new style is not a solid piece but is relieved underneath for lord knows what reason which is made worse since the chain just rides on a single point until it has worn in to conform to the amount of chain deflection but by then it cuts all the way through and accelerates the wear. The new design looks like it should lay smoothly against the chain for a large contact patch but it does not. 1380266224_Latestyledamper38kCloyeschain.thumb.jpg.06dc589c81096974b32dd4f822800a67.jpg2101377712_Oldstyle92kdamperiponewdamperon38kCloyes.thumb.jpg.ae9fd7a57c7be61db29a28744a8fde2d.jpg

The new style may work better against the oem Morse brand chain, but I haven't accumulated enough miles to prove that. 

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Thanks for the pictures Hal. As you know I have ordered the OEM damper from that dealer in Ohio and now because of your research I feel very confidant that after installation I will get many years and miles from the car.

 Kendall is doing the work as a trade for some paver brick work. He does the timing chain R&R and I do paver brick R&R on his patio. His knees are getting bad and mine are still pretty good and you and I know how skilled he is around engines so for me it is a great trade. I'm going to get him to do the 'vert as well. The 'vert has about 130,000 miles on it and has a bad cam magnet.

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So far this year we have received 2 freezing rains that caused my doors to freeze up on the Black which sits outside. I have always been able to get the passenger door open, but this causes me to crawl over the console to get in the car. 

 We are supposed to get another freezing rain tonight so I am going to try wiping the door rubber down with WD 40 to see if that helps. It displaces moisture and we all know that water and oil don'y mix so I think it is worth a try.

 Anyone have an opinion?

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3 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

So far this year we have received 2 freezing rains that caused my doors to freeze up on the Black which sits outside. I have always been able to get the passenger door open, but this causes me to crawl over the console to get in the car. 

 We are supposed to get another freezing rain tonight so I am going to try wiping the door rubber down with WD 40 to see if that helps. It displaces moisture and we all know that water and oil don'y mix so I think it is worth a try.

 Anyone have an opinion?

Throw a cover of some sort over the susceptible area. I am thing something like a long narrow carpet runner, carpet side down, so it covers the upper window are as well as the lock/latch area. Could be rolled up and stored in the trunk. I do agree WD40 is worth a try but I don't know what long term exposure may do to rubber gaskets. I would tend to use silicone in that application.

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3 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Thanks for the pictures Hal. As you know I have ordered the OEM damper from that dealer in Ohio and now because of your research I feel very confidant that after installation I will get many years and miles from the car.

 Kendall is doing the work as a trade for some paver brick work. He does the timing chain R&R and I do paver brick R&R on his patio. His knees are getting bad and mine are still pretty good and you and I know how skilled he is around engines so for me it is a great trade. I'm going to get him to do the 'vert as well. The 'vert has about 130,000 miles on it and has a bad cam magnet.

Bartering is a great way to get things done and save money as well. I just noticed that the "saw" effect of the chain is pretty visible in the lower photo where it wraps around the top of the cam sprocket.

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