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LED Replacement Headlights


Posti

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Has anyone tried the new replacement LED headlights for the 6054 bulbs?  I expect they would be considerably brighter than our halogen replacements.  One of the concerns mentioned is that they are a little deeper than standard 6054 units - that could cause an issue with the headlight mechanisms.

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I know Daves89 has done so. I suggest asking over on the AACA forum as we are migrating there per Ronnie's suggestion.

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  • 1 year later...

Has anyone tried the new replacement LED headlights for the 6054 bulbs?  I expect they would be considerably brighter than our halogen replacements.  One of the concerns mentioned is that they are a little deeper than standard 6054 units - that could cause an issue with the headlight mechanisms.

 

I replaced the original bulbs with LED conversion lights. They were brighter than the originals and I was happy with them.  They worked fine for a couple of days. Then the doors would not close. I thought it was the light switch, so I bought a replacement switch. No change. Doors stayed open. After many hours of searching the manual and the internet, I happened to read in one of these forums that some one had the same problem and was told that he probably had a bad low beam in one or both bulbs. The closing of the door was done by the low beam element

in the left bulb. I thought that was very unlikely but I put the original bulbs back in, and BANG. the doors are back to normal. LED is strange. Doesn't draw enough amps to work with original applications such as blinkers and polarity is critical. I'm going to stop trying to up grade to LED.

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Welcome to the forum flb89! 

 

The problem with the headlight doors not closing after adding LED bulbs is a common problem.  The headlight moduleneeds a certain resistance therough the headlight bulb to determine if a bulb is blown. When it detects a blown bulb filament the doors remain open. I guess it was intended to be a safety feature.  The LED bulbs don't have enough resistance for the headlight module to tell the headlight module it is ok to close the doors.There are two ways to get around this.

 

One is to use a wiring harness with relays that power the headlights straight from the battery. The harness can by purchase on Amazon. The relays in the harness provide enough resistance to the headlight module that it will allow the doors to close.  That is the preferred method because it takes the load off the Reatta headlight switch that is prone to overheating because it caries the full current load of all the headlights and taillights the Reatta has.

 

Another way of getting the headlights to close is to modify the wiring coming out of the headlight module. This information was taken from another forum.  I hope it helps.

 

 

Quote

See page 8A-102-0 in the '89 FSM

 

On the Headlight Control Module connector C1 terminal C I cut the wire and capped the wire leading away from the HCM connector. I connected a 16ga wire to the severed wire C coming out of the plug and I ran that wire to a good ground.

   Up and Down then functioned correctly and the raise/lower switch also works correctly. You can do this fix regardless of what type of headlamp you are using and everything should work OK. 

 

GROUNDED_HDM.jpg.a105d6ba92160fa8fc29d05e01e620d2.jpg

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I just noticed that you have a '91 that protects the headlight switch so your car doesn't have all the load of the lights on the headlight switch. Still needs the resistance of the filament in the headlight in order for the headlight door module to close the doors properly or you will need to follow the second option of modifying the headlight module wiring as described above.

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I just noticed that you have a '91 that protects the headlight switch so your car doesn't have all the load of the lights on the headlight switch. Still needs the resistance of the filament in the headlight in order for the headlight door module to close the doors properly or you will need to follow the second option of modifying the headlight module wiring as described above.

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