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Fixed wires under rug, still no cruise


Captmike

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Just spent 4 hours splicing broken wires under carpet both sides, I have interior lights now and boot switch. But no cruise light, no locks, no power mirrors???? Trying to clear codes on this 90 rag top is near impossible unless you have already found cure for cancer....i checked fuses, only 89k miles. Any suggestions?

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I'll look at the wiring diagram in the service manual and see if I can figure anything out. It will take a while but I will get back to you. Might be tomorrow morning.

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Just spent 4 hours splicing broken wires under carpet both sides, I have interior lights now and boot switch. But no cruise light, no locks, no power mirrors???? Trying to clear codes on this 90 rag top is near impossible unless you have already found cure for cancer....i checked fuses, only 89k miles. Any suggestions?

 

The locks and power mirrors have a lot in common. The Cruise doesn't have anything that I see in common with them and may be a separate issue.  You should start by trying to get the locks and mirrors working first. Then move on to the Cruise problem in a separate topic.

 

Here is what I found in common with the locks and mirrors that would keep them both from working.

 

1. Body Fuse #1 - 20 amp. You should check it closely to be sure it it good.

2. Power Splice - S311 (orange wire from fuse) see photo

3. Ground Splice - S319. see photo

4. Ground point - G304. see photo

 

I suspect one of those four things are preventing the locks and mirrors from working. I hope the problem is just fuse # 2 is bad.

73395018_passengersidefloor.jpg.41aa63022a49b3e6528ff2b040a528c3.jpg

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The locks and power mirrors have a lot in common. The Cruise doesn't have anything that I see in common with them and may be a separate issue.  You should start by trying to get the locks and mirrors working first. Then move on to the Cruise problem in a separate topic.

 

Here is what I found in common with the locks and mirrors that would keep them both from working.

 

1. Body Fuse #1 - 20 amp. You should check it closely to be sure it it good.

2. Power Splice - S311 (orange wire from fuse) see photo

3. Ground Splice - S319. see photo

4. Ground point - G304. see photo

 

I suspect one of those four things are preventing the locks and mirrors from working. I hope the problem is just fuse # 2 is bad.

 

Thank you, I did check fuses, also pulled  door card,  see if I had broken wires in rubber boot...all ok...i will check what you sent....thanks

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Thank you, I did check fuses, also pulled  door card,  see if I had broken wires in rubber boot...all ok...i will check what you sent....thanks

 

The four items I posted are just what I see in the wiring diagrams as possibilities to give you a starting point for finding the problem.  I should have also mentioned that I haven't been under the carpet myself to do the splice repairs.

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It sounds like the orange wire that Ronnie speaks of has lost contact at the bridge. The bridge is located on the heater plenum behind the wiper switch (on my 89) I had the same problem and had to remove the dash to gain access to the bridge.I then cut the orange wire (located in the far right corner of the bridge) out of the bridge and reconnected it with male and female spades. Note! IF you go into that repair I would advise you to remove the bridge and gently remove the covers located inside the bridge (both sides) and make sure the copper wires are not touching any other contacts then they are supposed to. Then coat the wires with a silicone sealer. I found that over time of contraction and expansion the copper wires move and can ground out on other contacts and cause problems. I'm not sure if the 90 has the same harness Ronnie can tell you that and hopefully he has a picture of the dash harness that will show the bridge.

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Trying to clear codes on this 90 rag top is near impossible unless you have already found cure for cancer....i checked fuses, only 89k miles. Any suggestions?

 

I may have misunderstood you but just in case

 

How are you clearing the codes ? The way to do it is to use the on board diagnostics by pressing the "OFF" and "TEMP UP" buttons at the same time Explained Here.

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The four items I posted are just what I see in the wiring diagrams as possibilities to give you a starting point for finding the problem.  I should have also mentioned that I haven't been under the carpet myself to do the splice repairs.

 

Just fyi. I took out seats, where seat plug comes out I made one slice across side to side l shaped on both ends..completely exposed plastic cover over wires. Cut tape holding plastic togather pulled up outside edge bent it under arm rest to hold it in place.  Did splices 3 hrs on both sides, covered back . Carpet back easyand can' tell it was cut....no Need to  remove carpet....again all I fixed interior lights now work, and boot release....10 or more broken wires??? Jeez I thought all would be fine :S

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It sounds like the orange wire that Ronnie speaks of has lost contact at the bridge. The bridge is located on the heater plenum behind the wiper switch (on my 89) I had the same problem and had to remove the dash to gain access to the bridge.I then cut the orange wire (located in the far right corner of the bridge) out of the bridge and reconnected it with male and female spades. Note! IF you go into that repair I would advise you to remove the bridge and gently remove the covers located inside the bridge (both sides) and make sure the copper wires are not touching any other contacts then they are supposed to. Then coat the wires with a silicone sealer. I found that over time of contraction and expansion the copper wires move and can ground out on other contacts and cause problems. I'm not sure if the 90 has the same harness Ronnie can tell you that and hopefully he has a picture of the dash harness that will show the bridge.

 

I am going to need a picture of that :huh:   90 wiper switch is on stalk...remove the dash? Where do I begin?  I have pulled all of center, radio, heater, box before...by the way I got radio buttons to work by taking it apart and cleaning under rubbers on board. I can pull cluster to gain access???

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What's going to be your next step to fix the locks and power mirrors?

 

Yes Friday if I  get a read on that bridge location and access. Being of  master jury rig...i held brake switch in place with a strip tie, now I have overdrive...without big toe holding peddle back...lol....this is my second reatta, in 93 I purchased a 88,,,I was a used truck dealer for 28 years and always loved the car...and I have had them all, from used lamborghin , to corvetts, etc...reatta was way under   rated in ride and feel comfort.

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I may have misunderstood you but just in case

 

How are you clearing the codes ? The way to do it is to use the on board diagnostics by pressing the "OFF" and "TEMP UP" buttons at the same time Explained Here.

 

I got a early code reader from a friend,  only thing shows up is o2 sensor, also it would not let me clear codes...from reading here it will clear code when I change and drive 18 miles...check engine light command resets...dont know why reader would not show code for abs...light on....i know I have bad wheel pick up

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I am going to need a picture of that :huh:   90 wiper switch is on stalk...remove the dash? Where do I begin?  I have pulled all of center, radio, heater, box before...by the way I got radio buttons to work by taking it apart and cleaning under rubbers on board. I can pull cluster to gain access???

 

 I know that changes where made in the 90 but to what extent I'm not sure. The bridge is what GM used to tie the two halfs of the dash harness together. It would be well to make sure that the bridge is still being used on the 90 because removing the dash is major surgery. I can tell you what has to be done on the 89 but I never had to pull the dash on a 90.

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It sounds like the orange wire that Ronnie speaks of has lost contact at the bridge. The bridge is located on the heater plenum behind the wiper switch (on my 89) I had the same problem and had to remove the dash to gain access to the bridge.I then cut the orange wire (located in the far right corner of the bridge) out of the bridge and reconnected it with male and female spades. Note! IF you go into that repair I would advise you to remove the bridge and gently remove the covers located inside the bridge (both sides) and make sure the copper wires are not touching any other contacts then they are supposed to. Then coat the wires with a silicone sealer. I found that over time of contraction and expansion the copper wires move and can ground out on other contacts and cause problems. I'm not sure if the 90 has the same harness Ronnie can tell you that and hopefully he has a picture of the dash harness that will show the bridge.

 

I have spent considerable time this morning looking at the '89 service manual illustrations trying to find the bridge. The only thing that I've found that comes close to matching your description of the bridge is connector C201 shown in the photos below.

 

The illustration that shows connector C201 can be found on page 8A-201-12.  Is connector C201 what you are referring to as the bridge? It has over 100 wires in it.

 

I don't doubt what you say but until we actually know what it is, and where it is, I think it is too big of a job to pull the dash without knowing exactly what to look for.

62362162_Screenshot-2017-12-2189Reatta-42-8A-ElectricalDiagnosispdf.png.b46db0741e60da4163e1f6a3a29bda66.png

1947027851_Screenshot-2017-12-2189Reatta-42-8A-ElectricalDiagnosispdf(1).png.093238aaa3c9640295b532ec40e49e36.png

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I have spent considerable time this morning looking at the '89 service manual illustrations trying to find the bridge. The only thing that I've found that comes close to matching your description of the bridge is connector C201 shown in the photos below.

 

The illustration that shows connector C201 can be found on page 8A-201-12.  Is connector C201 what you are referring to as the bridge? It has over 100 wires in it.

 

I don't doubt what you say but until we actually know what it is, and where it is, I think it is too big of a job to pull the dash without knowing exactly what to look for.

Yes that's the bridge. If you expose connector 201 when it is still in place look under it and in the far right corner you will find the orange wire. This wire comes "from" the fuse and not to it, that is why the fuse relating to these problems will check good after I repaired this wire I not only got back door, trunk, and gas tank locks etc. I also got back the ability to control all my lights through the headlight switch instead of the fog light switch. I believe that those repairs came from positioning the copper wires in the c201 connector and sealing the wires with a sealer keeping them from grounding out to the other contacts again.

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Does that connector have a bolt holding it together or does it snap together somehow. Anyone going into the dash to do a repair on connector C201 needs to know as much as possible about it before going in.

 

I personally would save this repair as a last resort when troubleshooting electrical problems. It looks like it would be hard to do.

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Does that connector have a bolt holding it together or does it snap together somehow. Anyone going into the dash to do a repair on connector C201 needs to know as much as possible about it before going in.

 

I personally would save this repair as a last resort when troubleshooting electrical problems. It looks like it would be hard to do.

 

Yes It has a bolt on the top and one on the bottom 5/16" if my memory serves me correctly. The C201 connector can be removed completely from the harness. I agree to check all other possibilities first  One of my jobs at the dealership was internal electronics and I'm familiar with that kind of work and even with the knowledge it's not a fun job. Half of the heater plenum is bolted to the dash and the wiring in the dash is not very long enough to remove that half of the plenum to get the dash out of the car.

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What's going to be your next step to fix the locks and power mirrors?

 

Yes after Christmas  :)

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I have spent considerable time this morning looking at the '89 service manual illustrations trying to find the bridge. The only thing that I've found that comes close to matching your description of the bridge is connector C201 shown in the photos below.

 

The illustration that shows connector C201 can be found on page 8A-201-12.  Is connector C201 what you are referring to as the bridge? It has over 100 wires in it.

 

I don't doubt what you say but until we actually know what it is, and where it is, I think it is too big of a job to pull the dash without knowing exactly what to look for.

 

I agree, looks llke major job with iffy succes,  on May try to hot wire the cruise,  as I have no  or light on dash when I turn it on. Also no power to servo...but last resort...

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I agree, looks llke major job with iffy succes,  on May try to hot wire the cruise,  as I have no  or light on dash when I turn it on. Also no power to servo...but last resort...

Captmike, Be careful when backfeeding the system you can create more problems. If you can get a known to be good servo use it in place of the one that's on the car. You could also have a bad brake light switch or porous vacuum line.  If my memory serves me right the cruise will not work under 30 mph which means that it is controlled by the grounds of the computer. Also just above the gas pedal is a module that is the power supply, that can also have an effect on the problems your having, but it sounds like the orange wire. I hope I'm wrong.

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