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Engine stalls and runs rough. Timing chain?


fun car guy

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As i continue to research this I'm becoming aware that the timing chain will need replacing?  Please say it isn't so!!!

 

 

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haha, I hope you're not just toying with me.  The scar starts and doesn't stall but runs rough.  I had thought it was just a bad plug or injector!

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26 minutes ago, fun car guy said:

haha, I hope you're not just toying with me.  The scar starts and doesn't stall but runs rough.  I had thought it was just a bad plug or injector!

Just take it step by step and eliminate the easy stuff first. Does it eventually smooth out? Does increasing the throttle with your foot clear things up? Have you checked in diagnostics for any stored codes or is the check engine light on? If the car has not been driven for an extended period and if the battery has been disconnected, it will take a little while to relearn its best adjustments. Many other possibilities, but the engine itself is very robust and reliable.

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Okay, anyone know how much to replace the chain/tensioner and water pump?

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Just went out, started it and the only error I see on the touch screen is low brake fluid which I knew about.  Once I'm past that there's nothing until I shut it down and I see a yellow "check engine" light under and to the right of the main display.  Accelerating doesn't help the roughness either so, since I'm in no hurry to drop a fist full of dollars, I'll check the plugs and injectors first.  Thanks

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Check engine light with the engine off and key on is normal. Try unplugging the MAF sensor, then drive it and see if it runs better.

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Sorry but remember you're talking to a newbie, I'm assuming the MAF sensor is under the hood but exactly where?

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It's the rectangular thing right next to the big air box hose. It has one electrical connector and is helld in place with 3 screws.

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Just out of curiosity, did you determine the actual mileage? If less than 150k miles, what leads you to believe the timing chain needs replacement?

 

If the spark plugs or wires have been changed or just removed and reinstalled, check the rear bank, the even numbered cylinders, to be certain the plug wires are on the correct plugs. This has caught many people out due to the cable routing, the limited access to the plugs on an '89 and the pair of plugs that angle toward each other. One set of switched wires will cause trouble on two cylinders or more.

 

Disconnecting the MAF sensor as a test is very sound advice.

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Would that be the lead to the left and right, not the center plug in the rear?

 

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What does disconnecting the ECM prove?  I'm still unsure on the milage.

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The MAF tells the ECM how much air is flowing through the engine. That information is used by the ECM to help determine how much fuel should be injected for the proper fuel/air ratio. If the MAF fails, which is pretty common, the result can be hard starting, a rough idle, or bad overall performance. When you unplug the MAF the ECM will use data stored in memory to replace the information the MAF normally provides. Sometimes the engine will run better with the MAF unplugged giving you an indication that the MAF is bad.

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After you have checked the plug wires as 2seater suggested, you should enter diagnostics [here's how] and see if there are any trouble codes stored in the ECM. Write down any codes that are displayed. If you have any codes that might help us figure out what is causing your problem.

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Glad to know my MAF sensor is good but how do I access the codes stored in the ECM?

BTW, my actual mileage is 1626 15  Don't know why there is a space there but afraid there's about a thousand more miles than I was told.

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10 minutes ago, fun car guy said:

... how do I access the codes stored in the ECM?

Click on the link in my last post.

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Sorry, I missed that.  Thanks, I'll check this out and get back to you.

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