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Finally got around to changing some of the spark plugs


Dfk88

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So my car has had a rough idle since I bought it, everytime I pull up to a light the engine starts acting like an out of balance washing machine....okay maybe not that bad but it’s very noticeable to anyone in the car and it happens every time. So I got around to buying some delco platinum plugs and changed the front three. Now I don’t have any experiance so I don’t know how to judge the old plugs but they looked pretty bad to me. All of them looked to be corroded in that white stuff that you sometimes see on battery connections, I have to wait a bit on the wires because my store didn’t have them in. But I also did the ignition coil, I didn’t realize there was a gasket for it though so it’s just got some electrical tape sealing it for a very short period of time. So now let me tell you the results. It seemed to accelerate a bit smoother but I felt loss of power in second gear and once I hit 45 the engine really starts missing and shaking, which it didn’t do before. I’m going to be doing the other three plugs today as well as the oxygen sensor and hopefully the fuel Filter, I’m thinking it  could Be a possible gapping problem because we didn’t gap them at all they seemed to match the previous plugs. Anyways, i could really use a couple pointers because i really feel like I’m gonna blow my car  up or something lol

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The photo of the spark plug you posted looks pretty normal to me. There are a few deposits on it but that might be from additives put in the gas in your area. The spark gap appears to be much wider than it should be but it's hard to tell for sure by looking at a photo.

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Here’s a side by side of one of my new ones and one of the old ones, also what actually is the correct gap for these supposed to be? Is it .06 or is it .04?

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The specs for the plug gap may be on a decal under the hood. If you have the stock Magnavox ignition system I would set the gap at .045. If you have changed to the Delco system I would set the gap at .060.

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It sounds like the ECM is dropping an injector Bring the engine to normal temp. while the engine is running dis-connect the plug at each injector and watch for an RPM drop I think you will find #6 injector is not working. Or take a long screwdriver and place it against each injector and listen for a clicking sound , if not replace the ECM. I had the same problem and did a complete tune up Wires and all removed the coil pack and found frayed wires and repaired them and still the same. I listened to the injectors and #6 was not working so I replaced it, ( $85.00) still the same then I replaced the ECM and its been running great ever sense. Auto Zone $100.00 for the ECM.

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Good advice checking out the injectors. I am a little confused if you actually changed all of the spark plugs? I know there was a delay getting new plug wires and it is very easy to get the rear cylinders mixed up when putting it back together. Double and triple check the routing. The Magnavox coils don't have a common history of failure but the ICM below the coils does. The symptom of misfire near the speed where the trans. goes to high gear and TCC lockup is many times indicative of ignition breakdown.

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Okay so here’s an update, all the new plugs are in as well as the wires and a new coil which is sadly aftermarket, it feels so much smoother it’s unbelievable, the idle is miles better than it was before but there’s still occasionally a small jump in the engine at stop lights. I’ll put it this way, before when I would stop at a light it would immediately start jumping the entire time (it’s never died on me) now when I’m at a light I’ll just get a single small jump like maybe every 10 seconds or so. The plan today is to get the fuel Filter in and clean the MAF Sensor and I’ll hopefully see even more improvements. There was just one issue today coming home from work, I got on a main road so I had to speed up a little and I did it kinda aggressively to test how everything was holding up and I heard a pop and a little bit of steam flew up from the hood right around the air filter, so I got worried and immediately let off the gas and drove at 30 for a little bit longer and when I decided to speed back up everything seemed fine and nothing else happened. So I just got home and popped the hood and there was the smallest amount of coolant VERY slowly coming out of the radiator hose off the radiator I’m not sure if maybe the clamp just isn’t on all the way or it wasn’t warmed up enough for me to step on it yet but otherwise everything seems to be working great now

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Don't forget our friend, the CPS. A KNOWN troublemaker.

 

The CPS? I’m not sure I’m aware of what that is?

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CPS= crankshaft position sensor.

Sits behind the harmonic balancer.

Can cause stumble, missing, bucking, or failure to run.

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CPS= crankshaft position sensor.

Sits behind the harmonic balancer.

Can cause stumble, missing, bucking, or failure to run.

 

Thank you sir! Learn something new everyday

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Okay so here’s an update, all the new plugs are in as well as the wires and a new coil which is sadly aftermarket, it feels so much smoother it’s unbelievable, the idle is miles better than it was before but there’s still occasionally a small jump in the engine at stop lights. I’ll put it this way, before when I would stop at a light it would immediately start jumping the entire time (it’s never died on me) now when I’m at a light I’ll just get a single small jump like maybe every 10 seconds or so. The plan today is to get the fuel Filter in and clean the MAF Sensor and I’ll hopefully see even more improvements. There was just one issue today coming home from work, I got on a main road so I had to speed up a little and I did it kinda aggressively to test how everything was holding up and I heard a pop and a little bit of steam flew up from the hood right around the air filter, so I got worried and immediately let off the gas and drove at 30 for a little bit longer and when I decided to speed back up everything seemed fine and nothing else happened. So I just got home and popped the hood and there was the smallest amount of coolant VERY slowly coming out of the radiator hose off the radiator I’m not sure if maybe the clamp just isn’t on all the way or it wasn’t warmed up enough for me to step on it yet but otherwise everything seems to be working great now

It sounds good that it is improving. Small steps is sometimes the best way to proceed. A coolant leak may or may not be temperature dependent, it may be the clamp is out of position but in rare instances, I have seen the plastic nipple on the radiator cracked from out of position or too aggressive tightening of the clamp.

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I would clean the intake butterfly as well as Seafoam through the intake. I believe instructions are in Ronnie's "How to".

Very inexpensive as it costs the price of one can of Seafoam and one can of carb cleaner. If that doesn't clear it up that's okay as that should be cleaned anyhow.

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