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fordrodsteven last won the day on May 24

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About fordrodsteven

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    North Andover, MA

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  1. Like Ron says. You didn't get us into anything. I was just apologizing to Ron because I know of his intention to slow down traffic at this site and have us have one site for our forums. There has been a lot of referencing back and forth between the two sites. It's going to be much easier to find out what we / you need at one site with many very informed individuals who like to help.
  2. Ronnie, I apologize, I don't mean to carry on any conversations on this forum. But now that this is started I have a question for Daves89. I saw where it was said that you have to enable the tape player for the ability to control volume for the MP3 or IPOD device with the touch screen. If I take out the tape deck and make a nice little open compartment to put the IPOD in will it control with the touch screen or with the IPOD controls?
  3. do a search over at AACA. put in "Tapedeck solution" see if that has what you are looking for. I know it says 88 / 89 but you might be able to glean some information if you read through the string.
  4. When my cruise didn't work I went step by step as directed in the manual troubleshooting section. I went by the tree (does it work yes , no) which got to the point where it said my problem was the servo. I bought a replacement servo and it was the correct solution. If you have a manual my advice is to go to the troubleshooting section and follow the procedure.
  5. I think going after the heater core is the same process for all the years of Reatta.
  6. When I put mine away I just connect a trickle charger. If you disconnect the battery then hook it up later you will get a couple codes. At least I always do! The codes are for the radio losing the pre-set stations. I then reset my stations and clear the codes then it's all set and good to go.
  7. I have experience working on both and my opinion is that Lucas electronics / wiring is worse than Reatta.
  8. Are the parking lights on also? If the parking lights are on then the fog light circuit is powered somehow. If the parking lights are off then you are most likely in DRL (daylight running light) mode. I went back to search on the AACA site and found that in 2005 someone had said that in DRL mode the the parking lights will not be on and fog lights will be on but dimmed then when you turn on the fog lights with the switch they will get brighter.
  9. Also per McReatta on Jan 11, 2015; (you can find it right here at this website) You can do this like the factory did by programming the BCM. You basically tell the BCM it is a Canadian export car. Have to do a search on the value change needed. Start reading from page 14 of this link to get the concept: http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/57-diagnostic-information/diagnostic-instructions/56-diagnostics-instructions-page-1
  10. There was some discussion regarding using the fog lights as daylight running lights at the AACA in January of 2015. There is a way to turn them on (yes it was for cars sold in Canada) and I agree with Daves89 that it's doubtful you could have set it on accidentally. Still the same I would look to see what the BCM is set at. Per Padgett on January 12, 2015; BD90 has an over ride you can set to make the fog lights stay on all the time. The code is 48 for Canada (lights on as daylight running lights) or code 144 for USA. He refers to page 8D14 in the 1988 FMS but also says it does not mention the code for Canada (48). If your car reads 48 on BD90 it somehow got switched to fog lights on at all times. If it still reads 144 on BD90 then you have some more investigatin' to do!
  11. Hi! I'm back. I was thinking about how I posted earlier and went by what I remember. I don't want to be "That guy" that puts out bad information. You know how it works. One bit of bad information gets "out there" Once it's on the internet some people think it's absolute fact. So.... I opened up my FSM. Page 3A-3 starts the section on rear wheel alignment. The first paragraph does include instructions to put 300 pounds of weight in the trunk but then it has a few other steps which afterwards says to remove the weight from the trunk. The purpose of the weight is to insure that the rear air-adjustable struts are filled with residual pressure only. It also refers to the car leveling system as part of this procedure. Therefore my take on this is that the procedure with the weight in the trunk is for the Riviera and not the Reatta (unless you have a Reatta with a load leveling system?) Anyway. the manual then says to take the weight out before starting the alignment. The manual shows only that you can adjust rear toe (as 2seater mentioned) and as Ronnie said earlier you do that by loosening the control arm bolts and prying the control arm to the desired position. So... after all that I DO KNOW that you can buy shims to insert behind the bearing hubs to adjust the rear camber. Like I said I don't want to be "That Guy" that leads someone in the wrong direction. So in answer to the OP just adjust toe as Ronnie had said way back in the beginning. A side note from me is that if you find the camber off when you get your "final printout" of your alignment it can be reset/adjusted using the alignment shims.
  12. I found this information over at the other site..... Posted August 30, 2014 Does anyone else have a rear camber issue? I have been a bout a degree off for years, ever sense I bought my Reatta. Well today I am going to be correcting this issue that every alignment shop has told be cannot be corrected. A bit ago I ran across the following part. http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K6623 I will post the results after I finish. Posted August 30, 2014 I was told the same thing but later learned that you have to have a full tank of gas and 300 lbs of weight in the trunk. Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) So here is a quick write up on this. It was a fairly quick job and I had extra time so I took a few pictures in case anyone else wants or needs to do this. I guess it can be used as a rear bearing or hub write up also. It is a pretty straight forward job. First here is the basic steps. 1) remove the rear wheel. 2) remove caliper by removing the two bolts that fasten the bracket in place 3) remove the 13mm bolts that hold the hub on. This is best done with a socket and extension. 4) align the shims and remove the unnecessary tabs (determined by which correction you need) 5) replace hub with shim behind and install parts in reverse order. Now on to some pictures. post-49927-143142700027_thumb.jpg Shims before and after trimming post-49927-143142700036_thumb.jpg Side view of shim this is the 1 degree shim (largest) post-49927-143142700045_thumb.jpg Hub removed post-49927-143142700075_thumb.jpg Old and new bolts. post-49927-143142700052_thumb.jpg With switching to allen (hex socket) blots I can use any of the hub hole to install or remove the four hub bolts. Not hugely important but saves a little time. post-49927-14314270006_thumb.jpg Hub and shim installed post-49927-143142700067_thumb.jpg This is the biggest reason for switching to allen bolts. It is no much easier to access the caliper bracket bolts with out fighting with the parking brake cable. I will have the alignment check shortly to ensure the shims made the correct change. Hope this can help someone out if they ever have to do this job. Daniel
  13. MY recollection was that the shims are used to adjust camber and the loosening, moving control arms, re-tightening would adjust toe. Although I'm not sure if caster was even adjustable at all. It might be just camber and toe because it is a rear end and doesn't move in any other axis as the steering (front end) does. I don't know if the shims are available through the "Reatta Store" but I am certain they are available from RockAuto. They are listed under "Reatta / suspension / alignment shim" 2seater - I didn't think you could turn the shims 90 degrees. I thought they only went thick side down or thick side up for camber adjustment.
  14. If I remember correctly the manual does show how to make all adjustments to the rear end. There is also something about having a certain amount of weight in the trunk when doing alignment. I think it say something like 300 pounds. I recall some discussions regarding rear end alignment and the comment that the weight would be a full tank of gas and a set of golf clubs in the trunk. I don't have golf clubs but I did make sure I had a full tank when I got my alignment done. Go to a shop that does four wheel alignments and they should know how to do what needs to be done. A lot of them will tell you that they cannot adjust the camber but that is because they might not know about the shims that are used to make those adjustments. Yes it is best if you bring a manual with you and have it marked (post it note marking the page(s)). My experience with most shops though is that they don't want to listen to you regarding shims (or most anything else for that matter). Again because they don't know about them. My approach was to get an alignment with a one year guarantee. When I got home I read the final report. I got the proper shims to make the adjustments and installed them myself. I brought the car back after a month and told them I had hit a curb pretty hard and wanted them to check it again.
  15. Complete! Good thing I inspected the replacement column before I put it in. I think they broke a wire (one of the cruise control leads) when pulling it out at the salvage yard. I fixed the wire and then put it in. I had to clean up the horn contacts to get it to work. I now have high beams again! Then I took it for a short drive to insure the cruise control functions properly. All good! During my driving this summer I composed a list of the little things that I want to fix or adjust to make it 100%. I'll pick away at those items over the winter while also working my Thunderbird when I can. Life is good!
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