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About rogold

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  1. If the car is on a large level concrete pad, you could buy or borrow some car dollies and push it aside until you find the keys. https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-2-pc-61283.html
  2. You also might have a bad knock sensor, or a good knock sensor retarding the timing because its senses a knock.
  3. I have heard that a bad coolant temp sensor could make an run rich (or lean) also
  4. Sounds like your battery cables are on the wrong terminal, should have red cable on "+" and black on "-". They may have sold you a battery with the positive and negative terminals reversed. Unfortunately it could have fried your new alternator. Also, make sure the big wire on the back of the alternator is snugly on the post and not touching anything else.
  5. I am also working on replacing the metal part of my front bumper because of a small dent on the nose. I got a junkyard bumper assembly in nice shape, just the wrong color. Stripping the driving lights, grille, and mounts went fairly quickly. The speed nuts holding the rub strip came off well after spraying with WD40, didn't break off any plastic studs. I also had trouble with the plastic rivets at first. But figured out if I sprayed them with the WD40 on the backside of the bumper, then, again from the backside of the bumper, I inserted a short tiny screwdriver thru the legs of the rivet. Then holding the screwdriver on both ends just push the center shaft of the rivet thru, and they popped out far enough to easily pull out from the bumper face. I has to rotate some of the rivets by hand to make working inside the gap on the backside of the bumper easier. A nail or similar tool would probably also work too, but the handle on the tiny screwdriver gave me something to grip. Now that I have just the bare metal left, next job will be polishing the metal. Just waiting for some warm weather outside to do it.
  6. Try these directions, you may be using the wrong buttons: http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/57-diagnostic-information/diagnostic-instructions/82-how-to-access-ecm-bcm-a-crt-codes#2-how-to-access-the-codes-for-90-91-models
  7. I agree with Ronnie's comment above. It might also be the IAC or even EGR valve sticking open acting like a vacuum leak at idle. Also check the vacuum manifold that no vacuum lines came off or cracked.
  8. It warmed up enough today to do some junkyarding. Looking for some cheap spare parts to build up my collection. Ran across this Teves unit, but decided to leave it for the next guy
  9. My guess is either your accumulator is bad, or the pump is not turning on, which could mean the brake pump relay or pressure switch has gone bad. I would start here to find the culprit: http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/repair-information/repair-tutorials-a-information/category/84-brakes-electrical http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/64-suspension-a-brakes/brakes-mechanical/172-accumulator-testing-instructions
  10. It is on the fuel rail on top of the engine. You should see it protruding thru the engine cover shroud above the letter "N", or pull the shroud off to get better access. There should be a small cap you need to unscrew.
  11. Any good locksmith should have the module to test a key, or you can check it yourself if you have a ohmmeter. Here is a video that shows how to read the resistance of your key:
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