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Reattasteve

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About Reattasteve

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  • My Reattas
    1990
  1. Thanks. The only thing I didn't do was spray the door latch and the linkage at the end of the window.. Will give that a try. Thanks
  2. I already checked the lock/unlock switch. I took the little panel off and lubed it. Both sides. The passenger side lock/unlocks from the drivers side but there is no movement on the drivers side. so you could be right about the solenoid. That's for another day.
  3. Yes. I just was outside messing with it and after taking off the panel around the door handle a lubricating I was able to get the passenger door to lock and unlock. When I press the lock, unlock button on the drivers side it unlocks and locks the passenger side, but there is no movement on the drivers side. Thanks
  4. My RKE will open the trunk but neither door. You can hear it actuate but does not fully unlock the door. if I press the lock/unlock button on the drivers side I can see the the silver manual lever go up but not enough to fully unlock the door. Is this a lock solenoid problem or linkage. Thanks
  5. I had my brake system power flushed and bled yesterday and they do seem to be more solid. Unfortunately the service garage was not able to get the right rear bleeder screw out. I ashed if that would make a difference since it wasn't bled. They said no. I didn't believe them, so when I got home I took a torch to the screw (which they had buggered up) quenched it with cold water, torched and quenched 2 more times, pounded a rounded off nut remover socket on the screw and it came right out. I punt in a new bleeder screw, bled the back brake (a lot of dark fluid came out) now everything is fine. An ex GM mechanic friend who works out of his garage ays he always bleeds the brakes from the farthest wheel to the closest wheel to master cylinder. Meaning right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Would that hold true with the Reatta?
  6. Here is a picture of my hydac ball "Made in the U.S.A.
  7. What you say makes sense. Just concerned about the brake pump burning out. I've E-mailed SW-SC and asked them about the made in U.S.A. stamp. I'l let you know when I hear from them.
  8. 0.25L (in the OEM accumulator ball) is equal to 35 cubic inches. The Hydac ball only has 20 cu, in. Could this be causing a the problem of the pump motor coming on prematurely and not holding a charge
  9. I just checked the Hydac ball and it says 20. cubic inches in volume. There is nothing on the ball stating bar which I'm guessing is volume since the OEM ball say bar 0.25L. The Hydac ball also says made in the U.S.A. Where were the OEM balls made?
  10. I did a search and came up with Debugging the abs system on the '75 Alfa Romeo Milano. I called an Alfa Romeo dealership in Berkley, California and had about a 20 minute conversation with a parts guy. I told him about SpinningWheels-SC selling these new Accumulator balls that are larger, but are an exact fit and claim they're made by the original manufacturer. I also told him about only getting 2-3 pumps of the pedal when the pump comes back on. He immediately felt that SpinningWheels is lying and asked me what the bar volume was on the new Accumulator. I'll have to take it off the car to check, but I checked my old OEM and it shows 0.25L. He says that for them to say it's from the same manufacturer is like saying the same guy who painted them black before is painting the new ones. This now has me concerned. How many of our members have bought and are using the Hydac Accumulator ball and are having similar pressure and brake pump problems. He did suggest checking the reservoir for bubbles when stepping on the brake pedal. He said it might be possible for the the fluid to get past the pump. If enough of our members are having similar problems I think we need to contact SpinningWheels-SC and question them about it. What is the name of the company producing them. The Alfa Romeo guy said that these parts should be regulated by the DOT for their safety and claims.
  11. I just did a search for " How to calibrate a Teves Mark II Brake pump" It came up with a link for a pdf on " Debugging an abs system". You might want to check it out.
  12. I read the thread before. I saw that at he end you were still doing pressure testing. Was there any outcome from that. When I wrote to SpinningWheels they wrote back and said it's made by the original OEM manufacturer and the only thing they changed was the allen wrench nut on the top and the size. I'm just wondering if the greater size requires more to keep it up to pressure, but you said you got the same results after chang out to an OEM on and changing the switch. Do you know of any other opinions?
  13. I agree with 2seater. I removed the rear wheels. It gave me more room to move around. Remove the anti roll bar and some of the exhaust shielding. The Filler tube is attached to a rubber tube and clamp. I also placed supports under tank while removing straps
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