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Nick last won the day on April 4

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  1. Hi All, I've put my Reatta up for sale - I have other projects that I need to focus on, so I unfortunately am unable to get the dashboard and lights figured out before selling. Here's the details: Short Story: 1988 Buick Reatta Mileage unknown (Dashboard not working) but I have service receipts from 2001 showing approximately 90K Repainted a couple months ago Reupholstered recently Starts, drives, stops Lockport, IL Nick - 630-240-1859 $3900 Long Story: I recently acquired this Reatta through a trade deal. The previous owner had it for about a year, and believes he got it from the 2nd owner. I found a stack of receipts in the car detailing all the service for the first 12 or 13 years of its life, and the last few receipts are dated 2001 and show the mileage around 90,000. The previous owner owns a body shop and painted the car just a couple months ago, and the paint is really beautiful. I noticed a couple fisheyes on the roof, but otherwise it's a very nice job. When I got the car, it was stubborn to start when cold and there was an oil leak that appeared to be coming from the intake manifold, so I replaced the manifold gasket. While doing that I replaced the injector o-rings and associated intake manifold gaskets like the throttle body, cleaned out the EGR valve, replaced the fuel pressure relief valve, installed a new thermostat and thermostat housing, installed a new upper radiator hose, and installed a new PCV valve. No oil under the car since this, but she's still stubborn to start when warm. Previous owner says he replaced the fuel pump, and I replaced the fuel pump relay, but still takes about five seconds of cranking to start cold. She starts right up when warm. Drives and handles very well, no suspension noise. I'm surprised by how much power these cars have, and how comfortable they are to drive. Car stops very well and brakes feel firm. No pulsing or grinding. CRT is functioning - radio works but the antenna is stuck in the up position. The dashboard is completely dead except for the ABS light when you first power the car on. There are also some other electrical issues, such as the headlights not opening (only the parking lights come on) and none of the courtesy lights come on, so I'm hesitant to send the dash out for a rebuild since I suspect the problem is power to the dash. Previous owner installed a new light switch to try and solve the dash and headlight issue. As you can see from the photos, someone applied a window tint and then the previous owner tried to remove it from the rear window. I got more of it off, but don't want to risk damaging the rear defrost to remove the rest. The tint on the side windows is flaking a bit at the edges but presentable. Previous owner said that the car had been reupholstered before his ownership. The seats look really good, but could use a good cleaning. Material (I assume it's vinyl, but it feels like leather) is very soft and comfortable. The top of the steering wheel has wear, and the very top of the instrument panel housing is discolored. All glass looks intact; I checked and didn't see any chips in the windshield. Surface rust underneath, but no real rot. I'm headed back out to my shop today and can take some undercarriage photos to add. I have a few spare parts, including a CRT control module, horn button, old light switch, and a few pieces I don't recognize. All in all, a nice car with all the hard work done - brand new paint and nicely upholstered seats. Work out the electrical gremlins and this is a good car to enjoy. Feel free to contact me with any questions.
  2. Fuses and grounds are good. I'm going to stop here with the car because I have other projects that need to take precedence. I just put her up for sale on the AACA site. Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it. Nick
  3. Wow, I never would have figured that the cruise control fuse would be linked to the IPC. Thanks! I'll check that and the grounds when I'm back at my shop tomorrow and keep you posted. Much appreciated. Nick
  4. I actually tried that - no courtesy lights, no dash activity.
  5. Hi All, Finished my intake manifold replacement project, and now would like to get the digital dash figured out. Before I send it out for repair, I'd like to see if I can eliminate any other possibilities. This is a 1988. When I bought the car, the dash had already been pulled by the previous owner, who was pretty mechanically capable. He said he'd heard that the power for the dash was routed through the headlight switch, so be replaced the switch. That didn't do the job, and he traded the car to me before he could troubleshoot any further. Today I plugged the dash in to see exactly what it was doing. Short answer is a lot of nothing. Only one light comes on - the ABS indicator, for a few seconds when you first turn the ignition on, and then nothing. When I hold down the "test" button, the only lights that come on are the Defrost/Rear Defrost indicators on those buttons. Nothing else I can see. Turn signals work but no indicators on the dashboard. Side note - when I hit the button for the headlights, only the parking lights come on, and the headlights don't pop up. No interior dash lights come on when I hit the headlight switch. When I hit the foglight switch on the center console, the dash buttons illuminate, but the digital dash shows nothing. Finally, no courtesy lights come on - nothing when I open the door, nothing when I hit the switches on the rearview mirror. All the fuses look good. I've tried unplugging'/plugging the body module and the CRT control module, nothing changes. So, I'm hesitant to send the dash out for repair because it seems like there's a separate electrical issue. Any thoughts? Thanks, Nick
  6. Forgot to say thanks - I found the insert rings and installed the gaskets, and today fired her up. No leaks!
  7. Hi all, I have the intake off my '88 Reatta and received the replacement gaskets yesterday. I noticed that the ones I removed had the rubber seals around the ports, but the replacement doesn't. Has anyone had any experience with the gaskets without the rubber seal? Am I better off ordering a set with the rubber seals, or are the ones without them sufficient? Side-by-side comparison below. Thanks, Nick
  8. I'm a big fan of RockAuto; I usually end up getting anything I don't need right away from them. FYI, I'm doing the intake manifold, oil pan gasket, and trans pan gasket on my '88, and all three gasket sets were on closeout for a few bucks apiece. The whole order cost less than one item would have at AutoZone.
  9. I was just curious about the CRT - having no one out there rebuilding them makes them a disappearing commodity, so I was glad to hear that there are vendors for repair. But I do need to get the instrument panel working, so any suggestions for a vendor to rebuild that would be appreciated. Thanks! Nick
  10. Hi All, I wanted to introduce myself. I just became a Reatta owner today. I used to buy, restore and sell collector cars and motorcycles as a business before switching to my current job at a nonprofit, and I still have some of the cars and motorcycles from my former business. One of the motorcycles was a 1974 Harley Davidson Shovelhead project that I knew I would never complete, so I found a 1988 Reatta for sale and offered the bike as a trade. And here we are... She needs some work (can't seem to stay away from project), but has recently been repainted and reupholstered, and seems to run and drive well (although I'm noticing an oil or trans fluid leak). The CRT works well, but the electronic dash has been pulled out (previous owner was going to send it out to be rebuilt but the vendor said it actually needed to be in the car to be tested before it could be sent out) so I don't know how many miles are on her. I'll probably be posting some questions and asking for some help, so thanks in advance for any advice. Here are a couple photos - I haven't taken her down off the trailer yet because I'm not sure where I'm going to be doing the work on her. Nick
  11. New to the Reatta (as in, I just picked mine up in a trade deal today), so forgive me if I'm asking something that's common knowledge... But are there any vendors out there that rebuild the CRT units, or do you just have to hope you find a good used one when they go out? Thanks, Nick
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