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Pystalchemyst

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About Pystalchemyst

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  • Location
    SFBay Area
  • My Reattas
    1989

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  1. Yes and my way is currently working. And your CAD doesn't work because of the headlight hood motors. If you don't have panel in front of them then you are creating a very problematic thing called drag. Which would slow the vehicle down and cost more fuel. Unless of course you install ratcheting cable elevators for the headlights. Or only drive in the day. I didn't use a saw. It was a Dremel. And pliers, and vise grips, and channel locks, and muscle. My Mac WAS jealous though....lol. It threatened to only run Windows from that point forward so I had to give it some Cortana crunchies for a snack.
  2. The only problem with rock auto is that they are guilty of cross price gouging. They routinely overcharged for reatta parts that are found elsewhere on their site for as much as 75% cheaper. Case in point, compare the Oldsmobile, Buick, and Cadillac parts as far as the struts go. Or any other combination that you choose. And what you will find is the identical strut used trofeo, allante or DeVille, and Reatta where the part numbers are slightly different however the specs on the units are the same and the bolt patterns match. Where the strut may cost upwards of $70 on Reattas the identical unit can be purchased for as little as $15 on clearance for other models. I realize this takes a lot of research but suffice it to say money can be saved at RockAuto and their inventories pretty good. But charging so much just because there were so few production units and they find a way to profit off of us is more than just nonsense. You can even find brake pads that are actually identical model numbers with different prices. And the list goes on and on. Finding the depart can be purchased in California because of some proposition warning is also ridiculous. many of these parts are shipped to and from California to their warehouses where in order to do so the documentation that they speak of has to be in place first before shipment can be made legally. This is just how they couch for more money a shipping cost and there's got to be a lawyer out there they can do something about it. So be wary using that 5% discount because you may be charged 75% more for the part that you're buying. Please pardon me as I'm not trying to bash RockAuto in particular. It's just a point that I need to make so the people don't get suckered is all. I personally cannot stand it when bad business practices are overlooked and the net outcome is just advantage being taken of citizens just trying to do maintenance on the vehicles. Good luck on the part search.
  3. Having been in a fender-bender and the impact rolling the hood up a bit I decided to do a little modification now along with the repair. I did take pictures of the damages but I have to find them so I will probably add them to this post or later date. Suffice it to say that the hood impacted the elevator controls for the headlights themselves. The actual knobs for the elevators were shattered and the posts sticking through the hood. It made it a little difficult to open. However she took it like a champ and since I had a spare Reatta for parts I took it upon myself to do the repair (FYI my spare is being parted out for those that may need some component that I may be able to supply). I'm going to show some pictures of the modification I did which reduces the underhood temperature as registered at the temperature gauge for the engine anywhere from 5 to 10 degrees depending on outside air temperature and velocity of the vehicle itself. I do not now see temperatures go above 204 degrees while sitting in traffic on a warm day. Before the radiator would hit boiling point and occasionally higher when sitting on hot asphalt in the day sun. Additionally if necessary this can easily be piped for ram air induction. Those of you with chargers and boosters may find this interesting as the ductwork only has a slight problem with a 90-degree elbow which would go in right below the driver side headlight. This modification will eliminate any type of hood work as far as ducting goes (for those of you with before said chargers and boosters) that may have been considering or looking into a hood-mounted RAM system like is used on the fire chicken and trans am's. These pictures are of the rough work after painting and before the fitting of the bra and bug shield that goes over the hole. It's pretty basic metal work and a few hours in the dark running my hand over the surface to get the general shape down correct again to match the headlight hoods. All paint is rattle canned and wet sanded Duplicolor #381 (dead on Buick match) and ACE High Gloss clear. There wasn't much Bondo used at all, and most of the bending of the metal was done with a 3 foot monkey wrench and a couple pieces of curved carbon fiber panel. Of course my hammer set saw some sweat time. But all in all I'm fairly proud of this one as it came out good and matches the underhood contour plastic piece and has a definite effect as intended upon the temperatures. The hardest part of all of this has been alignment adjustments to try to get the body lines correct prior to me finding the new bumper and shimming it out. Care must be taken to not strip out the torx bolts holding the hood in place because of the force that's on them.
  4. I'm sorry I should have been more specific....Electrical Engineers...lol.
  5. Okay so after almost thirty years I got one. She's red and I love her. I was supposed to get one when I graduated high school but the price tag was a little bit lofty and thus I got a Jeep. Now don't get me wrong I love my Jeeps and AMCs. But the Reatta stole my heart. Now it's a new century and a fifth of the way into it and I think to myself Buick really messed up by not sticking with the Reatta. So, in light of this, as much as retro can be cool, I seriously think it's time for a little updating. Being a scientist and inventor that modifies damn near anything, when I look at that green screen and the stereo system I have to ask the question: why not modernize the stereo and eliminate the CRT? Why can't we pipe the video feed for the diagnostic and read out functions and climate control into the auxiliary video Jack of a modern 6 and 1/2 in double DIN touch screen stereo (preferably an Android one so that updating is far more easily done)? Then replacing the CRTs slot and either a) using the touch functions of the stereo in place of stock or b) placing the stock capacitive touch control directly on top of the new stereo? Doing this we would be preserving all the functions but now having an upgraded stereo system with higher output and a lower need for inclusive amplifiers and the like to drive a stronger audio system. I should also point out that this will integrate phone functionality as well via pairing beings analog 900 megahertz is not exactly a economic cellular system to use nowadays and who doesn't have a Bluetooth phone on them? Easy people, I know there are still a few of them out there. Any ideas? Thoughts? Directions to point me towards?
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