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Luftweg

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Luftweg last won the day on June 21

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About Luftweg

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  • Location
    Boston
  • My Reattas
    1989

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  1. I connected a 14 gauge wire from a body ground to the plate... I did this fairly late in the day, and I suppose it is still possible ground was not achieved (I did not check ground with a meter, nor any of the voltages at the connector)... Well, I will check Jack's to see if they have an earlier model 3800 ICM (with the 3 studs/bolts).... Oh, but the ICM will be on the order of 25-28 years old!... Then again, the ICM on the 89 right now is FROM 1989 (and the coil pack appears original)... Btw, I noticed the other 89 ICM/coil I have is leaking the green spooge a bit...
  2. It is possible that the 97 ICM is defective, I also have an 07 ICM (which 'appears' identical). I have not too much issue with fabricating mounting for the ICM
  3. *** EDITED: THE 1989 REATTA MAGNAVOX ICM DOES HAVE 14 PINS, BUT THE CONNECTOR ONLY USES 12 PINS (and there are only 12 wires in the harness, and on the connector). The ICM for the 97 (and 07) will not mount to the existing plate of 89 Reatta,.... The six bolts holding the coils down, also go through the ICM, to the mounting plate... The three studs/bolts of the 88-89 ICM are not there. [EDITED:] ... The 89 Reatta ICM has 14 pins, but uses only 12 pins (leaving 2 blank), with 12 wires on the harness (leaving 2 spots on the connector blank). * The 97 LeSabre uses all 14 pins, with 14 wires on the harness. Again, the 1989 pin connector will plug-in (and can be bolted) to the 97 ICM , but the number or wires and used pins is certainly different -- I'm not sure if this indicates that the pin-out may be different (i.e., is there a compatibility issue?). Despite that difference, I connected the 97 ICM/coils to the harness, connected the spark plug wires, and firmly grounded it (and secured it in place with straps). The car would not start, but when I replaced it with the old Magnavox ICM/coils, it started right up. (I may reconfirm (when I get to it) that I had the connector seated securely on the 97 ICM, and that it was truly grounded.) If I'm mistaken, or overlooking something, please describe that in detail. I may take a couple pictures of the different number of pins on the ICMs, and number of wires in their respective connectors/harnesses.
  4. Are we sure a 1997 ICM will fit?.... The mount sure looks different.. The cable plug looks identical.... I'll have to read the Padgett upgrade material to find out... The ICM/coils in the picture: one is from a 1997, and the other is from a 2007; they look interchangable with each other. The one below pictured still on an engine in the junkyard is a 2001. Pictures taken at Jack's Salvage.
  5. Thanx.... Is 'Jacks' a u-pull-it, or is it the type of junk yard that has already done so (like 'Harbor' in Lynn)? Either way, unless the car is at the bottom of a stack or 4 cars and doesn't require contortionism or double-indemnity life insurance, I can pull it easy enough..... [Note: on the Amazon listing for the 'Herko' brand ICM, the price is for the ICM only; it doesn't include the coils]
  6. Today, I went out to check the grounding of the ICM... I had left the pin through the CPS supply wire, the night before, so I thought I might check the voltage again..... Voila! It now measured 10 volts... So, then I thought I might check to see if it turned over... I had not changed anything in regards to grounds, or anything else... Yes, it started and ran -- a touch rough, but it ran and didn't stall out (I let it run until warm, then shut it down).... Puzzling... I think I'll replace the ICM and Coils with new ones, and see what happens then (I'll still check/clean the grounds)..... In any case, I don't think the CPS can be defective (or, maybe it still could be?)...
  7. Thanx, Ronnie.... I also prefer proper name parts, however USD 400+ is quite a steep price difference.... Then again I could go the junk yard way, but then there's a potentially even greater reliability factor with unknown used electrical parts... [Edit note:: on the Amazon listing for the 'Herko' brand ICM, the price is for the ICM only; it doesn't include the coils]
  8. The price is certainly right.... Yes, I understand it's not the AC/Delco upgrade -- but what's the cost of a new AC/Delco ICM and 3 coil packs? $300-400 or so? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Herko-Ignition-Control-Module-LX349-And-Magnavox-Style-Ignition-Coil-B008/362784729845?epid=656834001&hash=item5477a7aaf5:g:ENQAAOSwWtZdqfef https://herko.com/Retail/herko-ignition-control-module-lx349-and-magnavox-style-ignition-coil-b008.html
  9. * Well, I've not done the CPS Tests yet (on a known good CPS) because, after the first night of the car starting (and apparently running smooth), the second day was very different. It then started a little hard, and ran rough, with some apparent skipping.... I took the spark plugs out and inspected, and they appeared pretty clean (except one was slightly dirtier -- so I cleaned it and replaced that wire). The next day, I swapped the ICM from the other Reatta, and it started, seemingly running a bit better, but not perfect. The following day, it would not start at all. Checked spark: NO spark (yes, I know: how could it have started and run after the CPS job, if there was no spark then). Checked ICM power: 12 volts Checked power to CPS: only about 6 or 7 volts. That's where I left off, and will address the ground to the ICM tomorrow... (note: I don't have another ICM to swap... maybe they are both bad, or there is some serious grounding problem?) Oh, just for shiggles, I did visually inspect the CPS, but didn't see any physical problems (of course, I can't see the whole thing with the balancer somewhat in the way).
  10. ... Namely, for one, the need to 'kill the kickback' potential by removing spark plug wires?.... You could also put in a strong disclaimer, recommending that it 'only be performed by a trained mechanic'...
  11. Well, I completed replacement of the CPS, connected the battery, cranked it, and it started immediately (and it hasn't been running for many months -- there is a story behind this delay)..... It was slightly rough-running, and there was a valve lifter 'tick', so I only initially ran it for 15 seconds and shut it down (there was a loose spark plug wire at the coils, so I secured that). I let it sit for a minute, and re-started it, this time running for a minute... I repeated a third time, and let it run until it warmed to 180 degrees... The tick gradually went away, and the engine smoothed out nicely. I guess this confirms the diagnosis results. ** I have not yet repeated the CPS tests, with my nice digital meter and LED test light -- however I plan to do that.
  12. Mounting the new CPS into the old frame/holder revealed a crooked alignment with the balancer teeth.... Well, I removed the balancer again, and there was a crack in the 'ear' of the CPS mount, because it broke off without much provocation.... Thus, I needed to replace it, and in doing so, part of the pin broke as well (doh). I'm of the impression that the pin isn't entirely necessary, if the new frame/holder can be installed in the correct location and secured with the bolts... So I did that, and put the CPS on it.... When mounting the harmomic balancer again, it was not crooked, but it revealed several of the 'teeth' needed to be straightened, which I did... Another cycle of balancer removal and mounting shows that there is no touching of the teeth to the CPS. Unfortunately, I will have to finish the job Thursday, as I have work to do on Tues/Weds... The saga continues....
  13. I have inspected the balancer, and there was one that was slightly out, and I carefully bent it back.... There appeared to be a 'scrape' along the side surface of one of the rings, where the sensor presumably touched it (see the sensor pics above, to see the obvious damage)... * However, I'm strongly tending to believe that the CPS sensor had been replaced, and that the clearance was not carefully checked (in other words, it was mis-installed); I only had the car for six to nine months, before the problem of stalling-after-it-warmed-up arose, which ultimately progressed to a no-start condition. I had already done a Reatta CPS on my other 'older' 1989.... During the current R&R job, I had removed the shield and brace from the 'older' one -- to use on the 'newer' Reatta (on which they were missing)... I also removed the balancer from the 'older' Reatta and inspected the CPS I had replaced (about 5 years ago), and there is no apparent damage... I remember researching the 'job' at the time, and became keenly aware of the necessity of making sure the 'teeth' were not bent (of course, they were, because the serpentine belt broke and wrapped around the crank, breaking CPS and bending the 'teeth' on the rings). If I was industrious, I could cut a notch in the frame/holder, and remove it from the pin.... I WAS trying to wrench it off a bit, so my worry was that I deformed/damaged it -- however I removed the CPS sensor seems to fit in okay, and I don't 'see' any damage. THANX, for helping
  14. Yes, that is certainly my intention -- if not just to satisfy my own curiosity.... and to see if my 'fancy' digital meter is capable of determining the 18x signal.... *** I've got another concern: I'm trying to get the aluminum holder for the CPS off; I removed the 2 bolts, and can't seem to get it to slide over the pin .... I may have leave the old holder on thanx
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