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Studebaker last won the day on March 1

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About Studebaker

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  1. pistolchemist.....Well, all I can say is that when I compare prices between Rock and others, it seems that most of the time I get a better deal with Rock, and that includes the shipping costs. I guess if Rock has a higher prices on some parts because they are for a "Reatta" instead of another Buick, then I guess all the other parts dealers are also charging a mark-up for the "Reatta" part. Would be nice if someone made a parts list that gave the "Non-Reatta" part number for us Reatta owners.
  2. I guess Alan has been driving his Reatta non-stop since he made his post, and has no time to visit this site. Shear enjoyment with the top down.
  3. GettyUp! Hi Ho Reatta, Away! Hope she is leak free now and running at those high psi's.
  4. 2Seater.......Yep, symptoms are that of a bad battery, and I still need to do the load test to confirm. Will do the load test as soon as I get a chance, and also the voltage drain test as shown in the "How To" section of this site. Get a couple problems fixed, and another one shows its head.....just the nature of the beast I suppose.
  5. Got the new Bosch O2 Sensor in and installed it. Old AC one in front, and the Bosch in the back: I installed it and today took the 89 Reatta out for a test drive. The battery had been on charge (low amp) since the prior day, and the battery was at 13.2 volts before I tried starting her up. Only got a real slow cranking attempt from the starter, as if the battery was almost dead. Checked the battery after the failed start, and it was now only at about 11 volts. I then charged it all morning and tried again after lunch......13.4 volts, but a super sick/weak starter action, but just enough to start the V6. Drove her 15 miles on the highway, and came back. GOOD NEWS!!!!!! No "Service Engine Soon" light coming on, and no CRT flashing that "Electrical Warning". So, the new O2 Sensor solved that problem. However, now I have a battery issue. When I was driving, the CRT screen was showing a constant 14.1 volts, but after getting back from the drive, the voltage was 12.8 and slowly dropping. I tried starting, but it was just a flat "umphhh", and the starter did not want to crank. I then checked the battery, and she was reading 11.2 volts. So I need to do a load test on the "new" battery.......I guess sometimes new batteries do go bad. Has anyone else had similar battery issues?
  6. Always pros and cons of doing business with any parts store. They all make mistakes, but try their best. I ordered a new front caliper for the Reatta from Advance last month......arrived, and it had the wrong caliper bracket attached to it......a pain to have to reuse the old crappy one instead of the new one that came with the caliper. Never had to send any wrong parts back to Rock (yet), and not sure if they pay the shipping or the buyer has to. Hope you get the parts and your Enclave on the road in time for the trip.
  7. Ronnie.,.......I agree, would be the best $12.50 fix I have done in a long time. 2seater.........You are right.....just my poor vision in reading the stamp.....It has to be "AC Spark", not Spary. DOH!!!
  8. Here are some pics of the O2 sensor, and removing it: Came out real easy....not stuck like some are. I used the 22mm O2 socket which fit perfect: Not too dirty, but some black carbon did come out when using a wire brush: Cleaned: Stamped "AC Spary".......Could this be original "fac-tree" equipment? New O2 Sensor should be here in a couple days.
  9. Dave......Holly Kamollie! 4 at $100 each.......thats highway robbery. Makes me damn glad to own this Reatta. 2Seater......OK, 18mm.....Im sure my 02 sockets will have that size Ronnie.....Good, only 1 sensor......I dont need to go climbing down-under in search of more of those critters. Will be great if this solves that CRT trouble code issue.
  10. I just checked at Rock Auto, and the OE Bosch sensor is only $12.50. I thought they would be more expensive, so no need to clean and re-use, unless I just wanted to experiment and see what happens.
  11. 2Seater......There you go.......excellent pic. So that rascal screws right into the manifold from the top......I just went out and looked under the hood.....looks like it will be easy to get to and remove right from the topside. Will start hitting it with PB Blast, get her ready for some wrenching. Glad I have an O2 sensor socket set, and plenty of anti-seize when putting the new one in. Any of you ever try just cleaning the old crud-incrusted sensor and re-using?
  12. Ronnie.......Oh No!!!!! That sounds like a tight squeeze to get to. Best to do it from above, or below? And there isnt another one down in front of the Kat?
  13. Ronnie....That is what I was thinking. Are they a royal pain getting too? I had crawled all under the car a few weeks ago, but dont recall where the O2 sensor was located. Does this rig have just one sensor, or 2 as the newer ones have (one upstream, and the other down in front of the kitty kat).
  14. Update: I just took the ole 89 Reatta out for a test drive to see if the Code Resetting/Clearing that I did will solve the problem. Started her up, warmed up a few minutes, then took her out on the road. All warning lights were off for the first few miles. Then, the "Service Engine Soon" warning light came on, and that caused the CRT screen to flash a warning that said "Electrical Problem" was detected. I hit the "Reset" button on the CRT screen and the warning light went off. In the past, the Service Engine Soon light would pop back on again in a few minutes, but this time it seems to be staying off (or, I did not quite drive it long enough for it to come on again). Got home and then checked the codes by going to the Climate option and hitting "Off" and "Warm" at the same time. This time I got only one code which was: E044 History There were no other trouble codes. This is the same one that had showed up before, and which I had "Reset" through the CRT commands. E044 indicates an Oxygen Sensor Circuit, Lean. So, does this mean that perhaps I just need to replace the O2 Sensor? Suggestions? P.S. The ABS Light is staying off most of the time. Occasionaly, and usually at low engine RPM speeds, it will pop on when I tap the brake pedal, and immediately go off when I let off on the brake pedal. When braking at highway speeds or above-average RPMs, it does not come on.
  15. Ronnie......Funny, Los Bravos.......they must date back to the late 50s.
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