Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


2seater last won the day on July 12

2seater had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

67 Excellent

About 2seater

  • Rank
    ROJ Supporter

Personal Information

  • Gender

Additional Information

  • Location
    Near Daves89
  • My Reattas

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have been sampling the Facebook Reatta forums for the last week. Certainly geared more to social and story telling, but most information seems reasonable and accurate. Marck does a nice job overall. I am not used to the format or how Facebook style posting is arranged, which is my issue to deal with. This style forum seems more intuitive with things grouped by subject and threads rather than a timeline style. I am sure that is part of the filtering process that I am not familiar with. Interesting to see people directed here or AACA for details and tutorials on several subjects. Would be nice to have some reverse pollination going on.
  2. Engine temperature sending unit is on the driver’s side end of intake manifold below the throttle body. The information from that single sender is used by the ECM to operate the cooling fans as well as the IPC display.
  3. The GM part number for the Morse chain is 25530114. It has to do with the top surface of the chain where it rubs against the tensioner. The smoother and flatter the surface, the longer the tensioner will last, at least that is my belief. I have had poor luck with the standard Cloyes replacement. The chain is the important part and the sprockets can be something else if desired. I am not fond of the new style replacement tensioner design either because of the relatively soft material and the limited thickness of the rubbing surface, but it seems there is little alternative.
  4. Hard to know wether to welcome or do an eye roll and ignore. Like the lowering question of a few days ago. I was thinking it was a prank so was direct in reply. Much is so terse or badly written it is hard to understand, maybe a casualty of Twitter where complete thoughts or reasoning seem to be absent. I would think a 91 muffler should be a quarter inch larger inlet to match the overall system?
  5. That is a lot to take in and deal with and I don't have any great insight or flash of inspiration. I suspect some of the above issues are related, as I had mentioned before about the under seat splices curing door locks, rear turn signal, trunk remote, drivers door courtesy lights and other things. When they cease to function a little at a time sometimes it escapes notice. I think Ronnie even mentioned the ground wire for the alarm is in the same bunch as the indicator light? Incidentally, it took 48 hours for my battery voltage to drop one tenth of a volt, 12.39v-12.29v. I have no twilight sentinel either and the indicator lights in the switch or the ipc are not illuminated unless the headlights are on. Both the parking light and headlight indicator lights in the switch illuminate at the same time since parking lights always engage with headlights, and it does not matter if the key is on or off, hot all the time. In other words, the headlight indicator in the switch never illuminates by itself. The parking light indicator will illuminate alone if only the parking light button is pushed, again it does not matter if key on or off. The 'LIGHTS ON" indicator on the IPC only illuminates when the headlights are on and the ignition is on. I am on my third headlight switch, and as mine is early production, the load from my uprated headlights destroyed the switch, but I was too unaware to realize what was happening. As mine is summer only, the long hours of daylight and no headlight usage probably saved the switch for years before it actually failed and only occurred after I was working a third shift job during the '08 recession and did more night driving. Previous posts detail the odd goings on as the second switch started to fail and only the addition of relays cured the switch issue and a third switch from Daves89 were all problems resolved. Since you have the headlight load removed from the switch, I wouldn't think load would be the cause of the discolored and apparently overheated connection, especially an apparent ground, unless, something was seeking a ground and chose that one?? It would be nice if you could try a known good tested headlight switch and possibly a headlight door module, but I have neither. They tend to get recycled, particularly the headlight switch which is either rebuilt or as a parts donor.
  6. That should be a nice car with mileage like that. This subject has arisen many times, with mixed results as to the method and especially the final outcome. No one can answer the front end scraping question without an understanding of where and how you drive. Raising the rear end will make the front lower, which is contradictory to the stated goal or concern above? To my knowledge there is no way to lower the car by two inches unless a total suspension is transplanted. You could fit 22" outside diameter tires and lower it that way, a 225R40-15 tire would get you there if there is such a thing. Of course the wheel opening will have an even greater difference with the tire.
  7. It is a puzzler? Strange that one ground out of many would show a symptom like that unless it has been short circuited in some fashion. Much of the switching seems to be making and breaking a ground connection, just like fuel injectors, constant 12v but a switched ground to make operate. As pointed out, it is a strange looking damaged area with what appears to be heat shrinkage for a short distance on the wire. If the terminal removal doesn't work, a quick and dirty way is to clip that wire in a way it could be repaired again, but then a meter could be used to see if there is a constant draw on that wire. Is it possible the BCM is the troublemaker?
  8. I don’t have much to add at this point except in my experience, black wires or variations such as with a stripe are some form of ground. There is a connection to ground indicated on the far right side of the switch schematic listed as ground for the indicator light in the switch. No wire size or color is indicated so guess is the ground is internal to the switch? Excellent photos by the way. Something I am lousy at. Have you tried removing that discolored connector? I don’t know if it is push or pull type of install 🤨
  9. What is the last four digits of vin, or date listed in door? For reference, I drove to my cottage yesterday afternoon, about 50 miles and parked. Approx. 18hrs later battery voltage with a meter is 12.29. I have no other reference, like where it started, but will check again this afternoon and see what’s what. My experience has been that feedback or odd indicators are ground issues. That said, I believe you have been through multiple switches and instrument clusters and perhaps the fault lies in the cluster? Maybe that phantom light appeared after something was replaced? I rechecked battery voltage again which is approximately 24hrs after parked and I find 12.36 which is sort of interesting if my earlier 12.29 was correct. It would make sense if originally was 12.39 and I mistyped🙈
  10. I think your advice has been sound and now that BRD has a manual, it should make life easier. Pretty hard to copy or follow the path from a bunch of small glimpses. I do think it is possible there are some differences in the headlight door module but I am not at all certain. I remember when I was going through my own headlight travails, pretty much a problem of my own creation, Dave gave me a couple of modules to test, but I don't remember what they were from, although I think it was from another GM with pop-up headlights and they did not work on mine, but dim memory that they did work on an 89. I shouldn't even bring it up, because it may be misleading.
  11. My 90 was early production and the only difference in the headlight wiring is a relay was added between the headlight switch and the headlights which effectively takes the headlight load off of the switch. The added relay didn't really have a home so it was taped or wire tied to the large wiring harness inside the console of the passengers side forward of the fuse panel. Last four digits of my vin is 0145
  12. This what I found as well as instructions for disassembly of the wiring plug. The weatherpack picks are just flat, narrow probes, like an eyeglass screwdriver with the flat tip extended toward the handle about an inch🙄 I may have miscounted but it looked like there was a spare unused terminal in one of the headlight sockets which might be relocated to repair the one terminal. The burned plastic should have nothing to do with the terminal contact as long as it will seat firmly.
  13. I will see what I can find. I am pretty certain you are correct about the yellow wire as I am almost sure that is the wire I cut and repurposed when I did my homemade headlight relay upgrade.
  14. This may help a little. I don't know if this is early or late production (with the extra relay), but two quick snaps of the early wiring diagram. I have others I took but my phone decided they need to be sideways🙃 The indicator light in the switch is not for locating the switch, it is the actual lights on indicator.
  • Create New...