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2seater last won the day on February 15

2seater had the most liked content!

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About 2seater

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  1. I can attest to the same as above. Great vendor, fair prices.
  2. It is a good looking car and my favorite color for a summer driver. Don't lose hope. As Ronnie mentioned photos and a little more information should help.
  3. So we have good news and bad news? It is certainly possible to get a bad battery, or have a cell go bad but is it possible there is a loose connection somewhere between battery, alternator and ground? Is the battery actually getting the indicated charge, checked with a voltmeter at the battery terminals? It sounds like you have been covering all those bases so if that all checks out, it will need a charge and load test or there is a large draw somewhere pulling the battery down quickly. If nothing obvious, I would bet the battery is bad. I have experienced similar but generally with older batteries. Drive fifty miles, charging well, stop for 1/2hr, go to start and CLICK. No warning.
  4. No, you do not need to bleed the system after accumulator replacement. As a matter of fact it must be emptied before it can be safely removed by pumping the brake pedal at least 25 times with the key off. You will feel the brake pedal get hard when boost is depleted and give it a few extra for good measure with the larger accumulator. Could be a cut o-ring, or is it possible there was one was stuck in place and there are now two in place? It should seal right up with just hand installation, extra torque does no good. Is it possible it is seeping from somewhere else? Is the reservoir overfilled? The level must be checked with the accumulator empty and the normal running level will be 1/2" or more below the full mark.
  5. Great photos. Maybe a bad stamped "K" making a "Y"? I don't think the outside appearance is a reliable indicator of the condition unless it has physical damage. The actual working parts are inside the part with vanes and supposedly there is some form of oxygen content comparison between the ambient air and the exhaust. How that is accomplished I have studied but it eludes me how that is done. They are pretty tough, living in an environment of 1500*F temperatures, high exhaust velocities and turbulence, but are brittle and fragile at the same time.
  6. Yes, I skimmed through it and it is certainly related to the survey and I think there was also a board meeting just recently as well. A couple weeks back I read through a long thread in the first subject in the home screen, General I believe, and it had an disagreement going on between Peter G and some poster I don't remember, and a couple other moderators stepped in as well, all about this exact subject. My understanding at that time was the AACA portion was more restrictive than the sub forums, especially if the forum title was for modified and otherwise non pure stock.
  7. I know there was some sort of blow up in the first AACA section that deals with general subjects and it seemed to me at the time, that modified was allowed in the sub forums, but perhaps I was mistaken. It is true that I have noticed for many years the tendency of the other forum toward preservation but I didn't believe it was a rule?
  8. The threads of the O2 are 18mm, same as large diameter spark plugs found in some old engines, not the size of the hex. I don't know the hex size offhand but I don't want to mislead. The later O2's contain heaters to get them fired up more quickly for emissions.
  9. The old one wire sensors are inexpensive as you have found, but no harm in keeping the old one as a spare for use in a pinch. The threads and sealing are the same as an 18mm spark plug and only needs to be gasketed spark plug tight. A new O2 should come with anti-seize applied.
  10. Dang Ronnie, I expected one of your excellent photos of the little devil😉 It stands straight up in the rear manifold. Photo of the manifold being prepared for modification; the hole in the stub pipe is for the O2 sensor.
  11. I had a clunk once upon a time and it was the frame bushings for the front bar.
  12. Went window shopping at Daves89 this afternoon and picked up an 89 manual, an E body parts catalog and an oem timing chain, an all around good deal. Dropped off the 12v led lights I promised several months ago🙄 Handshake deal on the fate of Daves present winter car, to be continued.
  13. What does the original relay look like? Most of the ones I find all over my car are Hella brand, but almost any 30 amp five terminal relay will work, however, be sure the diagram of operation on the side matches the original. Generally I use Bosch brand but the one shown in that link should work fine. I usually grab a bunch from the salvage yard just for spares.
  14. I don't know if this will be helpful or not but I stumbled over this old thread from the AACA forum. Hard to find any detail today for our 30 year old front suspension but the spring rate mentioned in the thread I found is the same as for all full size GM fwd cars from Buick, Pontiac and Oldsmobile for the entire 90's. This was a guy that lowered his car a while back: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/184553-front-coil-spring-specs/
  15. You are a funny guy. I did forget about the timing stuff and will call about that. A month from now would be way better I think. Will definitely work something out. Thanks
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