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libstainedglass last won the day on September 19 2019

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  1. Hello Again! Only just got my aircon up and running last week, In time for the warmer weather but also in time for being told that I mustn't go out and about unless for an essential journey as stipulated by the government. It took so long, not necessarily because I'm intrinsically lazy but a series of misunderstandings. As you rightly diagnosed, there wasn't quite enough gas in the system. Initially, we couldn't trace the leak but eventually realised that the compressor was leaking from somewhere near the middle of it. Tried to get a rebuild gasket set in Europe but wasted weeks on promises from different companies that all came to naught. My aircon man and I then found a $93 remanufactured one on ebay.com but they wouldn't send it to Europe and also wanted the old one back. So...went to where I should have gone in the first place "Rock Auto"! Bit of confusion over the correct one to order, different pulley sizes etc but they sent me a brand new "4 seasons" 3 piece kit for a reduced price, compared with compressor/receiver drier/orifice tube purchased separately and it was at my door just 5 days later! This is faster than stuff I've ordered from England. Fantastic service. To prove that it wasn't a fluke, while fitting the new A/C stuff, I noticed that the power steering cooler was leaking so Rock Auto sent me a new generic cooler in a repeat 5 days from order to arrival. Bit fiddly to fit as both connectors are at the same end so I had to get some aluminium tubing and bend it accordingly to reverse the flow of one pipe to the other end. All going pretty well at present. Next thing is to stop water coming in passenger side door. I made a smoke machine to locate the leak which is where the front edge of the door/bottom of glass meets the weather stripping which is split and has been masticed by a previous owner and looks a mess. What I need is a complete replacement door seal. Is Mr Finn the man to contact?
  2. My Reatta was changed over to R134a in Holland where it first lived after GM imported five Reattas into Europe in 1990. In England and presumably the EU as well, R12 was banned years ago and now all new cars must have R1234yF, which is expensive and has such small atom sizes that it is more prone to leaking away. I stated "and presumably the EU as well" because whereas every little thing is supposed to be standardised the reality is that each country does its' own thing (especially France!). So, when I brought my Reatta to England (an adventure in itself which I won't tell you about unless you request details of the saga) even though it had passed the compulsory Netherlands TUV safety test, I wasn't allowed to drive it over here until I had changed the lighting so that the rear indicators were separated from the brake lights and showed amber and not red. There also has to be an amber side repeater flashing in unison with the others and visible from the side/rear at an angle of 30 degrees. I was so thankful that there isn't a CANBUS system, in fact I wouldn't have bought it if it had. I did have my heart set on a Reatta after seeing one in a magazine while visiting my daughter when she was working in America. In addition, the seat belts must lock when given a sharp tug and the seat backs must lock when stationary, not as on the Reatta when these functions are triggered by deceleration. It then had to pass the annual government safety check for all vehicles over three years old and I then had to prove exactly when it was manufactured (the printed label "manu 11/89" wasn't deemed good enough) and provide stacks of completed forms, import documentation, Dutch TUV certificate, UK safety certificate, insurance documents and photographs and, of course, Money! This application was rejected three times before it was finally given official approval. In all, it took eight months from when I got the car home. If you have read all this you, most likely, have lost the will to live but getting back to your question about CFCs, In England you have to have a qualification to work on aircon sytems and you are not supposed, by law, to top them up yourself. Having said that it is possible to buy cans of "top up gas" over the internet! I think they get around it by stating that the gas is not R134a but only "compatible". Here in Europe we are all supposed to be doing everything to reduce the likelyhood of global warming, reducing consumption of plastics in packaging, promoting the sales of hybrid/electric vehicles and cutting down energy use at home with better insulation, LED lighting etc and out and about by switching off road lighting that had been installed at great expense for "safety reasons" but now is considered too expensive to run. In my loft I have eight inches of rockwool insulation, double the recommended thickness for when my house was built in 1988. The latest spec for new homes is twelve inches, which is way below my Swedish friends house in Gothenberg.....one meter or thirty nine inches! If you sell your house over here you have to provide an energy rating certificate. This gives an idea of how much it would cost a new owner to run the property for heating it. It also gives an estimated costing of possible improvements eg: under floor insulation, more efficient boiler, double/triple glazing, LED lighting and the savings that could made over three years. I seems to me that none of these recommendations are cost effective. For example it might state that the underfloor insulation could cost £4000-£7500, saving over three years £350-£425. Pointless! If you have got this far then you have just wasted a chunk of your life that you will never get back! Regards, Paul.
  3. Many Thanks for this information Ronnie. I'll be able to give the AC man some useful pointers when I see him.
  4. Ok...I'll jump the power steering switch again, fit the new low pressure switch when it arrives, get the system re-gassed and reassess the power steering switch afterwards. Current code is b447C. Thank you for the photographs of the workshop manual. The ECM codes and Diagnostic code comments are quite different, no mention of "switches climate control mode to "Econ" if in auto" as in the one sent to epssax. Might not be back with this for another week now as I am awaiting the low pressure switch and the AC man to return from his holiday. Regards, Paul.
  5. OK......Thank you for the photographs of the power steering switch. New low pressure switch not arrived yet. Disconnected battery to clear codes (codes don't clear through the diagnostics). Shorted out the power steering switch connector, reconnected battery, set ES06 to "on" and started engine. Pressed "Auto" on Climate control, set temp to 65 and blower fan starts and it continues to run indicating "auto". Can hear AC relay chattering in underhood relay centre and I swapped relays around but still chatters on and off. Compressor clutch not engaging, disconnect low pressure switch and clutch cycles on and off every few seconds. Not really getting any colder inside car. Reconnect power steering switch and AC changes to "econ". Do I need a new power steering switch? If so, should I get freon charge rechecked before it arrives or wait until I've replaced it? Going back to yesterday's messages about the Chart of ECM diagnostic codes given to epssax, I still can't see where "E" is on the "diagnostic code comments" and it might be very relevant to my problem as it refers to "switches climate control "econ" if in "auto". I really do appreciate everyone's help with this. Best Regards, Paul.
  6. What I didn't put in the last message is that I can't see an "E" in the "ECM Diagnostic Code" table.
  7. Back Again, I've just been reading the stuff about ECMs/BCMs from epssax and Ronnie posted some charts titled "ECM Diagnostic Codes" and underneath one called "Diagnostic Code Comments". In this chart it has "E Switches climate control mode to Econ if in Auto" which is exactly the problem that I am having with mine. Only difficulty for me is that I don't understand what "comments" means exactly. Regards, Paul.
  8. Hello Again, I have a new low side switch 15-2490 arriving later this week and currently have B108 reading "Hi". Current codes are B446H and B447C with low pressure switch terminals shorted. Pressing "auto" makes it jump back to "econ" immediately. What I can't do is locate the power steering pressure switch but I've only tried to see it from the top. Do I need to get underneath to find it? Air con man should soon be back from his holiday. Any help will be gratefully received. Regards, Paul.
  9. HI, I've done some more research and it appears that ACDelco 15-2490 is the correct part. At the very bottom of one listing on ebay for "High side pressure switch" it states that it is, in fact, the low side switch. Raining again here in England so no practical work today. Thank you all again for your input. Regards, Paul.
  10. No it didn't. It engaged for a few seconds and then reverted to "econ".
  11. Hi, Yes I eventually found out that the low pressure switch on my car is further over to the driver's side. Does anyone know the ACDelco part number? I've found out that the 15-5643 is incompatible with my car but the 15-2490 is compatible except for the fact that it is listed as the high side pressure cut out and not the low side. Very, very few switches listed as "low side". No-one in England is listing anything like this so the option of taking it to a parts store isn't available to me. It's ebay.com or Rock Auto who list 15-5643 but not as suitable for a Reatta. I'll keep searching the internet tomorrow. Thank you to everyone helping me here. Regards, Paul.
  12. Hi All, Many Thanks for your recommendations. This morning I cleared the codes b552H and b447C, disconnected battery for 5 minutes and started the car. Pressed "auto" on AC panel, set temp to 60 and AC started to work...... A very few moments later it changed itself to "econ". Checked codes and found b446C and b447C. Cleared codes, disconnected battery, jumped terminals on low pressure switch, restarted car and pressed "auto" and again, it ran for a short while then changed itself to "econ". I think that the aircon "tech" didn't realise that the compressor must run in order to tell whether there is enough gas in the system. The man that I usually have is on holiday for the next two weeks and so I saw his stand in. Is it worth getting a new low pressure switch for when he gets back, just in case? I expect that you have to evacuate the system to fit a new switch. If so, do you know the part number? Is it ACDelco 15-5643? Any more assistance will be much appreciated! Best Regards, Paul.
  13. Many Thanks for the Speedy Reply! At present it's pouring with rain over here ( stereotypical weather for England) and the car is under a cover and I won't be able to get at it until tomorrow. However, I can tell you that I had code b447C come up. I'll get back to you tomorrow. Regards, Paul.
  14. Hi, I have one of the two Reattas over here in England and my aircon has stopped working and I'm hoping that you can help me. When I press the "auto" button it immediately reverts to "econ" and won't blow cold, only ambient temperature. I've had the gas checked and it's OK. The fuses are OK. I've checked the A/C relay in the underhood relay centre and it works. I've jumped terminals 1 and 4 on the relay cavity and the compressor clutch cuts in. I've jumped terminals 1 and 2 on the relay cavity and the compressor clutch cuts in. Terminal 5 gives around 12.5V. At the ECM the DK GRN/Yellow cable at Cavity 15 gives 12.5Vish. Everything else appears to be working, car runs well etc. I thought that I might have inadvertently switched off the compressor in diagnostics and therefore re-entered diagnostics and set ES06 to "99" but it didn't help. Is it the ECM and if so, can I fix it myself? The car is a 1990 model built in November 1989 and has done only 132000 miles. Any help will be much appreciated.
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