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When you want to use a generic automotive floor jack, but don't want to mangle your Reatta's sheet metal...

Good idea. I recently purchased a rubber pad for my floor jack that has notches molded into it that might serve the same purpose. I can't jack up my Mustang using the pinch welds because the pinch weld area has fiberglass ground effect parts attached to it. The main reason I bought the rubber pad is because the K member (cradle) where you jack up the front of a Mustang is slightly angled making it easy for a floor jack to slide off if you don't use a rubber pad to provide some grip. Using the jack metal to metal is dangerous and using just a block of wood isn't recommended on the front of a Mustang like mine. The rubber gives the jack a better grip on the K member, and the the pad has a lip on the bottom to keep it from slipping off the jack. For only $8 on Amazon the rubber pad is a good addition to any floor jack.

After owning the GT for over month, I gave it it's first bath today. I waited until I got all the mechanical things done so I could do a really good wash job to get all the finger prints off from working on the car. It cleaned up really good but it really needs to be waxed to get it to shine like it should. I noticed a few tiny rock chips in the paint here and there as I washed it but nothing unexpected. I finally got some touchup paint that matches to take care of them. It was hard to find Crystal White touchup paint for some reason. After the touchups, the next step will be using a clay bar to make the paint as slick as a baby's bottom. Then a good coat of wax to bring out the shine. I don't think I will have to buff it like I did the Reatta to get it to shine. Clay bar and wax is what I did to the Mercedes and it turned out great.

The good thing is that the 7th generation Rivieras had many mechanical parts that will fit on our Reattas. They made a few more Rivieras than Reattas.

Returning from my trip to Arkansas for the recent eclipse. Lucked out with perfect weather and clear skies. Attached are three photos, one is my poor cell phone photo held up to the eyepiece of my small telescope and the others are from a kind lady from Texas who shared pics from her nice camera and lens combo. Bet you can guess which might be which😜

I'm almost there myself. I still do it but my body is starting to say no. Working on the Mustang to get it into great condition has been harder on me than I expected. All I still have to do is change the oil in the differential and hopefully I will be done working on it for a while. I think it will be the last car I ever buy to work on myself.

If you look at Reatta Facebook groups you can see a lot of the threads are about someone parting out a Reatta. I guess the reason for that is parts are getting so expensive for a Reatta, both new and used, that people don't want to spend the money to fix them. What does that tell us? Are Reattas parts, and paying a mechanic to keep them up, getting so expensive that the threshold where a Reatta should be parted our versus trying to fix them up getting lower? Or does it mean that less people are interested in them and figure there is more money to be made parting out an old beater than trying to sell them? The way it's going the only people who are going to own a decent Reatta are people that can afford to pay big money for a low mileage Reatta to admire, brag about, and drive occasionally. The days of buying a Reatta as a cheap car seems to be over. Yeah, you can still buy a higher mileage Reatta at a good price, but after you spend the money on parts and labor to get it in good condition, your cheap driver isn't going to be so cheap. Especially if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work. My advice to Reatta owners who plan to keep them, is buy up all the parts that you can afford right now that are on Facebook and hang on to them because the price of those parts is going to get much more expensive and harder to find as the number of Reattas dwindles because of people parting them out.

That bar installs under the area covered by the oil filter adapter. It bridges over one bolt hole that is difficult to access and consequently you will be one bolt short of the total number of tapped holes in the pan rail. That bar should have a slight kink in it to apply pressure to the missing bolt. You can install a bolt in the open hole and delete the bar if desired. I think they are 1/4” SAE thread

Rock Auto shows different part numbers for the left and right seal 1991 BUICK REATTA 3.8L V6 Output Shaft Seal | RockAuto

The brake hose that connects to the brake caliper could be collapsed internally shutting off fluid going to the caliper. It's not unusual for that to happen to old rubber brake hoses. That is where I would look first. You can tell if that is the problem by by breaking loose the hose from where it connects to the metal line coming from the master cylinder and see if fluid easily flows out of that connection. If it does, the hose is likely the problem.

That looks like the connector for the transmission. If so, it's not unusual for it to move around in the transmission case. It's not actually a sensor. The wires in the connector go to switches inside the transmission to tell the ECM what gear the transmission is in. One of the wires in that bundle goes to the lockup torque converter solenoid to lock the converter when it gets a signal from the ECM.

Today (4/2/2024) I took the '91 Reatta out and had it run through the MA State Safety Inspection (annually @ $35) and an oil & filter change (10W30 full synthetic @ $70.53). I also had them check the headlight alignment since I put in the LED headlights...all was OK. The oil change price is worth it to me only because I can no longer get under a car for any repair work. Reatta has been in hibernation since October 9, 2023, and is now ready for 2024 cruise-ins and car shows.

I have acquired this Reatta back in September of 2023 and have been steadily working on it. Got it with 224000 miles and it’s up to 231000 now. Just replace all my burnt out bulbs in the front and back. I just did some vacuumed lines, and the nipple off the cruise control Modular’s is broken. The headlights don’t shine to far ahead of me as if they’re just slightly drooping and only come up fully at 60mph, as the wind catches it. Just rebuffed all the paint. So it’s looking bueno. The trim on the side door is broken off and the metal part of the trim was hanging off. I had temporarily secured it. End goal is I’d love to put a super or turbo on it without changing any of the ecu or that. I’d love to keep the screen as I have an 89. So if there’s any suggestions let me know, and sorry if this a terrible sentence as I’m using text to speech. And to ronnie you’re now a well known name amongst my friends and I as we look through all the old posts from the aaca forums from 03-09 and the post here. They’ve all been amazing sources. -ian 23yrs daytona Florida

I took the trunk lock cylinder to a locksmith. He was able to create a good working copy out of the lock cylinder. Now my doors can open and close with the key.

Sounds to me like you're using the wrong key. It would be unusual for all the lock cylinders to be stuck at once. I don't think you can access the trunk lock by removing the taillight. All the key lock does is turn an electrical switch that activates a solenoid on the trunk latch.

Anthony please hang around I think we need you. I am a plug and play guy with a lot of known good replacement parts. I just swap in parts starting with what parts are common to fail and go from there. My service manuals are hardly used...

Agreed, Ronnie. I have started to amass replacement parts that are hard to find. Though I have not yet procured a front windshield, I have been thinking about having windshield film installed as a precaution. I am good on struts (front and rear new spares) are on the shelf. Caliper rebuild kits. I am wondering if the various bushings could be 3D printed, or machined from a solid block of the appropriate material. The sensitivity of the electronics also causes worry. Regardless, the certainty is parts will be more scarce, and more expensive.

Here is an analogy to this topic. Just like a human being, the Reatta's lifetime will eventually cease to exist. That is, just as a human being will need medical help during its lifetime, the Reatta needs repair. Some people pass away, and others live another day. Along the way there are ebbs and flows with respect to the frequency of events, but assuredly they increase with the passage of time. So, in the case of the Reatta, at 30+ years of age it has rounded 3rd base heading home. Along the way many Reattas have disappeared and were designated as donors so others may live on. This is an inverse relationship........fewer Reattas on the road but more Reatta spare parts. Coupled with part availability from other GM models, perhaps spare part purchases should be closely scrutinized as there will always be aging Reattas entering junk yards or being parted out. The future cost of these spare parts is another discussion as predatory pricing becomes an issue rather than supply vs demand.

The Wabco STC2784 is the usual accumulator substitute used on our cars. It may be a different part number from a carmaker for the same part but I have no way of knowing. The part number above is used on Range Rovers.

Finally finished doing the suspension work. The 89’ regal rear struts fit like a glove after the modification. Took the car around the block and it drives like a car now. just need to get it aligned.

And actually 2 seater the switch he is looking to install were from my tested backstock inventory that you also tested with your "homemade test rig" so it's good. However from his post changing the accumulator is more likely what he needs to do. I have replaced the pressure switch twice in my 333000 miles on the Red. The switches can be hard to remove because they are in tight, which is why I bought the specialty socket [they are thinner wall because of the lack of clearance] years ago for this purpose.

Ronnie, after seeing your thread, I purchased the jack pads from Amazon for the two portable car jacks that I have. They're out for delivery today... thanks for the info.

Those two items saved my butt in 2014 in the middle of eastern CO when my '92 Riviera's transmission decided to let go.

I still carry my tools and test equipment in the 25 year old car I have now but I don't know what parts to carry at this point. I put the old belt in the toolbox when I installed a new one but that's it so far. Maybe a MAF would be good to have. I guess a cellphone and a AAA card are the best things I can carry that will help me get back home if I break down.

That explains the missing bolt! Thank you 🤨

You may want to pull the bleeder out to and check it for obstruction, especially if it did not have a rubber dust cap on it to keep dirt/ water/rust out of the nipple.

Thanks, Ronnie! I have heard of that, never experienced it first hand. it probably would not hurt to just replace the brake hoses on that car while I check that, they look like they might be original.

This writeup is intended for engines that will not start but you should be able to use it to test the 3x and 18x signals. Reatta Owners Journal - ICM & Crank Position Sensor Troubleshooting

I uploaded a video at the link showing it’s “wiggle.” so it’s normal and nothing to be concerned about?

I've experienced the same thing myself. In my case it started out as a poor idle before the engine went into closed loop. I caught it before it progressed to the point the engine wouldn't run by unplugging the MAF and saw that it improved the rough idle. This happens so often that unplugging the MAF has just became a routine part of troubleshooting a poor running Reatta engine. Just like testing the fuel pressure and looking at the ICM for the green/gray goo on the side, disconnecting the MAF to see if it improves how the engine runs is just something you learn to do. Just checking the MAF readings in diagnostics undoughtedly doesn't tell the whole story of what is going on inside the MAF.

1) My original ECM looked brand new and only had 20K miles on it. But it kept giving the dreaded E042. Manual said to replace it. 2) The first one I received from Blue Streak on Rockauto acted totally strange. It set off chimes for no reason and made the throttle go crazy. Car wouldn't run unless I kept foot on the gas. 3) Second Blue Streak "remanufactured" ECM from Rockauto was corroded inside. I didn't even try that one. 4) Fourth ECM from Swanauto (I assume is a salvage yard) looked like it got run over by a truck, but it worked beautifully and I haven't had a problem since. Code E042 is gone. As you can see, it took four tries to get a good ECM but I eventually got lucky. Since you purchased it on Ebay, you should be able to let the seller know it didn't work and they will send you a replacement at no charge or refund it so you can buy another.

Unplug the MAF and try it.

This is off the wall but... I'm wondering if the problem isn't with the crankshaft position sensor or associated wiring. It puts out two signals to the ICM. A 3x signal and a 18x signal. It can start and run on just one (don't remember which one) but maybe without both signals it can't go into ECM control of the spark and would throw a code E042 when it senses the RPM is over 600.

My original ECM had the PROM ASSU1614. I do not see the prom anywhere in the how to guide notes. I tried using the a different ECM with prom ASSU1614 and I got the E042 code. Either I got the wrong PROM or bad ECM. The diagnostic tree leads me to a faulty ECM. anyway to test the ECM?

All coilpacks, Magnavox or Delco, arrange the plug wire connections the same: 6 - 3 Top view -> 5 - 2 4 - 1 Harness connector end It does not matter which plug wire connects to which terminal as long as they are correctly paired.

Thanks! They do work correctly and I replaced the photocell with the how to instructions on this site. The dash buttons (light switches, wiper switches and shifter panel) would not light up at night no matter what, and this corrected that issue. The slider also dims my IPC at night as it should. I have a replacement BCM on the way, I will try it out tomorrow when it arrives. I also read there are ground splices underneath the passenger's seat that might need to be recrimped/soldered? I'm thinking it is either something in the CRT unit or the BCM, possibly both, but since the IPC does error out occasionally I am thinking the BCM has a problem.

There are I believe 3 little tabs on the bottom side of that plastic trim piece. carefully pry underneath the trim panel and it should release as it is just a friction grip.

There is much more information on how the bypass and EST circuits work, and how code E042 is determined in section C4 of the manual under the heading Electronic Spark Timing. What is failed to mention in these two pages is that the ICM's job is to ground the EST circuit until the ECM tells it to stop (after RPM reaches 400). Your test revealed that the ICM is grounding the EST circuit properly, however when you commanded it to stop doing that (by energizing the bypass circuit with a test light), the ICM kept grounding the circuit. It should have released the ground and allowed the ECM to send the EST pulses on that circuit (423). Since you've already checked for continuity on 424 and replaced the connector, the only remaining option is a faulty ICM

I think you are on the right track but there is a few tests you can do... The next time it happens, get the car into a dark space, or cover the photocell on the dash really good so the BCM thinks it is dark outside. Then move the dimmer slider on the headlight switch back and forth and see if the lights on the IPC and CRT dim and brighten as they should when you move the slider. Then move the slider all the way to the right and see if the interior lights come on. The BCM actually controls all of that. That will at least tell you if the BCM is awake and operating.

Thanks. I did pull it back out yesterday and cleaned the connectors, still the same result. On my old IPC. The warning lights work but no display. Between the the two of them, I have a good IPC. I guess I'll try to get someone to repair them.

The top plastic trim panel has to come off before you can get to the two sheet metal screws to tighten the panel back down back down.

If you push the test button and the warning lights don't light up, the most likely cause is you have got another bad IPC. It could possible be a ground problem. I would try unplugging the connection on the back of the IPC, clean the connectors, and reinstall.

I only replaced my headlights with LED's, not turn signals. Sorry, I can't help.

Welcome to the forum! Sorry, I can't answer your question. Maybe someone will be along soon who can.

MA is pretty rigid on what they call "vanity" plates. It initially costs $50 to apply for the plates. Then it can only have a max of 6 characters/numbers, characters first then numbers second and no mixing them up. There is an annual fee of $100 every November to keep the registration of the vanity plates current. "Special" plates; example, Red Sox, Celtics, Patriots, Cape Cod, Save the Whale, etc., and YOM plates follow the same rules but require re-registration cost of $100 every 2 years. YOM plates have to be original with no re-paints.

I change my mind a lot. You never know about me. There's a possibility that in the future I might go from mild to wild and end up with something looking like this. There's a lot you can do with a white car to get attention. 🙂 I'm not ready for the stripes yet but I do like those five spoke chrome wheels. I'll probably buy some of those if I stumble across a set at a good price.

About the only mud flaps you see in TN are on big trucks. 🙂

To my knowledge no one has rebuilt the master cylinder or the ABS section (valves) on the Teves brake unit, other than remanufactured units from professional rebuilders who sell them. I don't recall anyone mentioning a source for master cylinder parts that could be used to rebuild it. It is usually the power assist portion that bolts on the side of the master cylinder that gives problems. The accumulator and pressure switch are the items that give problems. Sometimes a pump goes bad but that is rare.

Decided to try and get some better braking performance on my Reatta. The brakes always felt kinda spongy and like the pads were sliding on the rotors. I have been changing the brake fluid every 2-3 years, but it never made much difference in the 11 some years that I have owned it. Last weekend I changed front calipers and rotors using Delco parts, and some Bosch QuietCast semi-metallic pads. The brakes are way better now. Brakes start grabbing much better without the slipping feel, and I think I must have got more air out because they engage with slight pedal pressure. I think the calipers I took out were originals. They were not leaking at all, but maybe just old and stiff after 35 years. I still have to do the rear pads, calipers, and rotors when time permits. Now that its getting warmer here in Nebraska, it should be soon.