I feel the same way about ABS. It is a good feature but it doesn't keep you from stopping safely... especially if you grew up driving without it like we did. My truck needs the ABS module replaced but it's almost impossible to remove without a lift. I just put a piece of black tape over the light and will deal with it later when my buddy gets his lift set up at his new house.
Okay it has been just about a month that I have been driving the "new" Black and about 3000 miles as it is now my daily driver winter Reatta. It has proven to be a great car that starts and runs great. I had a bit of trouble with a code E044 and EO41 [history] but that seems to have cleared up. I do have a Amber brake light which means no ABS but if the weather doesn't stop with cold, rain and yes snow it might not get addressed till spring. I drove 30 plus years with no ABS and I guess I can go 3 more months [I leave for Texas in February and March]. I'll just be real careful...
have a new ECM from Rock Auto. It will go in tomorrow. The IAC voltage varies just before it shuts down.
I will report on any improvement.
I have a error code indicating the knock sensor circuit is bad.
I can only relate what I just went through with the grandsons car. We couldn't get the O2 sensor to work reliably and it would not go into closed loop either. After verifying the wiring to the O2 sensor was intact and the signal was present at the connector on the ECM, we finally tried a spare ECM from the donor car. The replacement of the ECM corrected the closed loop operation and the O2 sensor became active as it should be. The one thing we did notice is the car will not go closed loop just sitting and idling but must be driven a bit before it will engage.
As for the knock sensor, I had a related issue many years ago, where I didn't get a knock indication when I should have, like hitting a bracket on the front of the engine with the engine idling. In that case I changed the ECM as well and it has been fine since. If you can get the engine to stay running, maybe a helper will be required, get the knock signal up in diagnostics and see if it is increasing just sitting and idling and if that is okay, hit one of the brackets for a front accessory and see if the numbers jump. Constant knock or intermittent will reduce spark timing but I wouldn't believe it would kill the engine.